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Goal is to make it to the event this year!
GRANNAS Racing T56 Magnum Installed
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This is not an insult to the kit but are people starting to be open to this swap? It does make sense but a few things I would change if I bought the kit myself, such as hardware and the shifter situation. There has been some reports of the shifter mechanism bolts coming loose
I recall before that people were against it. I do understand why from the purist point.
This swap does make sense now because you can store the V160 and beat the daylight out of this trans.
I recall before that people were against it. I do understand why from the purist point.
This swap does make sense now because you can store the V160 and beat the daylight out of this trans.
Thanks for answering my youtube question about the breather tube oring. I'm still in the process of installing mine. I just have some wiring and fluid left. Before you remove the stock driveshaft there is a heat shield and some metal cross bracket that remove. The aluminum driveshaft is thicker in diameter and looks like it is about a card widths away of rubbing these brackets. Did you notch them or just leave them off the car?
Also I know your car was originally a manual, but some tips I have for the auto guys...
- The firewall rubber/foam stuff if a pain to deal with. I would just cut it all out of the way like they outline here: http://mkiv.com/techarticles/auto_to_6spd_swap/inside/index.html
I didn't drill a hole for the bottom clutch pedal bolt yet. I'm not sure if that is really needed as it's held in place by an upper bolt and the 2 that go through the master cylinder. In Joels video he says a right-angle drill works best. I was able to do it easily without one. I just used a normal dewalt drill from inside the car.
- When cutting the transmission hole... the template he provides is a little bit too wide in the narrow portion that goes towards the front of the car. I folded in the edges some on the paper. (Make sure when printing the template you uncheck the fit to page checkbox) Before cutting anything I bolted the cover in using the rear 2 bolts and outlined it with a sharpy just to make sure that when cutting the template I wouldn't cut the opening too large in any places. Then I used the template and I still cut the hole too small and used a die bit on an air tool to clean up the edges.
- If you have a front strut bar, remove it. My first attempt of installing the transmission didn't work as the engine wouldn't rock back enough. Joel said you could also loosen the rear bolts in the front subframe if you need it to tip some more (for instance if you had solid mounts)
- In one of the OS Giken clutch videos Grannas racing it mentions tightening the clutch bolts in a circular pattern. The torque is actually 13 ft lbs and there is a special tightening pattern they recommend. I used a sharpy to number the bolts on my clutch face before beginning. https://osgiken.net/files/technology/Clutch Guides/clutch-torque-guide-2.pdf
- It's probably a good idea to replace your rear main seal while you are installing this kit even if it's not leaking. Mine was leaking so I replaced it.
- On his transmission tunnel cover, use the shortest bolts you can find in the front 2 holes, otherwise they will hit the sikky shifter assembly if they stick down too far.
- The tremec transmissions now come with a rear manual speed sensor cover in place. They use to come with a plastic plug and Joel would replace it with an aftermarket plug. Now tremec ships them with their own metal plug so you won't need to do anything with it.
- The rear driveshaft bolts that go into the aluminum plate on the diff... They work but they only penetrate about half way through the plate. In Joels videos they are Allan key bolts. Now they are hex heads. I may try to find some that are slightly longer for peace of mind.
So far Joel has been really good at responding to questions, evening answering emails on a Saturday.
Also I know your car was originally a manual, but some tips I have for the auto guys...
- The firewall rubber/foam stuff if a pain to deal with. I would just cut it all out of the way like they outline here: http://mkiv.com/techarticles/auto_to_6spd_swap/inside/index.html
I didn't drill a hole for the bottom clutch pedal bolt yet. I'm not sure if that is really needed as it's held in place by an upper bolt and the 2 that go through the master cylinder. In Joels video he says a right-angle drill works best. I was able to do it easily without one. I just used a normal dewalt drill from inside the car.
- When cutting the transmission hole... the template he provides is a little bit too wide in the narrow portion that goes towards the front of the car. I folded in the edges some on the paper. (Make sure when printing the template you uncheck the fit to page checkbox) Before cutting anything I bolted the cover in using the rear 2 bolts and outlined it with a sharpy just to make sure that when cutting the template I wouldn't cut the opening too large in any places. Then I used the template and I still cut the hole too small and used a die bit on an air tool to clean up the edges.
- If you have a front strut bar, remove it. My first attempt of installing the transmission didn't work as the engine wouldn't rock back enough. Joel said you could also loosen the rear bolts in the front subframe if you need it to tip some more (for instance if you had solid mounts)
- In one of the OS Giken clutch videos Grannas racing it mentions tightening the clutch bolts in a circular pattern. The torque is actually 13 ft lbs and there is a special tightening pattern they recommend. I used a sharpy to number the bolts on my clutch face before beginning. https://osgiken.net/files/technology/Clutch Guides/clutch-torque-guide-2.pdf
- It's probably a good idea to replace your rear main seal while you are installing this kit even if it's not leaking. Mine was leaking so I replaced it.
- On his transmission tunnel cover, use the shortest bolts you can find in the front 2 holes, otherwise they will hit the sikky shifter assembly if they stick down too far.
- The tremec transmissions now come with a rear manual speed sensor cover in place. They use to come with a plastic plug and Joel would replace it with an aftermarket plug. Now tremec ships them with their own metal plug so you won't need to do anything with it.
- The rear driveshaft bolts that go into the aluminum plate on the diff... They work but they only penetrate about half way through the plate. In Joels videos they are Allan key bolts. Now they are hex heads. I may try to find some that are slightly longer for peace of mind.
So far Joel has been really good at responding to questions, evening answering emails on a Saturday.
That's pretty cool too bad they don't have one for the CD009
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The T56 swap I did in a customer car had the “!”on after but it was a 97 so OBD2. I contacted Joel and he said the OBD1 cars should not have the light but OBD2 cars probably will. I was advised to swap in an OBD2 6spd ECU and apparently that would have fixed it but never had the chance to. Customer planned to go ProEFI so we just left it.
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Can you just keep the factory automatic ECU in there?
I am starting to think more and more about swapping. Having auto trans issues, and from what I can find, there is only one place left that can do a "built" auto. And don't get me started on that! It's the whole reason I am in this situation.
Al
I am starting to think more and more about swapping. Having auto trans issues, and from what I can find, there is only one place left that can do a "built" auto. And don't get me started on that! It's the whole reason I am in this situation.
Al
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Yes you can run it on the factory auto ECU.
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can you elaborate what this is ? I have the same issue occasionally
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A bunch of pressure builds up inside the transmission and the little vent hole at top is not enough to let it all out. It is now advised to drill the relief hole out and tap a AN-6 fitting with hose to a breather (kinda like a catch can from your valve covers) so pressure can be adequately relieved. I'd like to add this is not in the instructions provided by Grannas (although it might be now) and therefore fluid purging from the shifter hole was a problem we also had with the transmission swap we did.
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thanks, I’m doing this today then. will the shifter seal need to be replaced ? or is letting it fully breathe enough to let the leakage stop ?
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If fluid has already broken the seal around the shifter I would recommend removing the shifter housing, cleaning the housing surfaces, and resealing. Is it completely necessary? Probably not if the pressure inside is now being relieved appropriately, but just as a cautionary measure yes I would.
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for now it has only seeped from the shifter pivot point on my sikky extension. the base plate that the shifter bolts to the trans itself has never leaked.
I got the little check/relief valve off the magnum and am putting one of those tiny k&n filters in its place. I’ll update if anything changes/improves. Otherwise the Grannas T56 setup has been awesome overall, just a minor annoyance when it leaves a drop or two in the garage considering everything was new. Sounds like this will solve it.
I got the little check/relief valve off the magnum and am putting one of those tiny k&n filters in its place. I’ll update if anything changes/improves. Otherwise the Grannas T56 setup has been awesome overall, just a minor annoyance when it leaves a drop or two in the garage considering everything was new. Sounds like this will solve it.
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Just to update on the breather mod. I removed the check valve and was able to fit one of those small K&N valve cover breathers on the end of it. It has completely alleviated the seepage I used to get around the shifter area. I’m glad I checked this thread.
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