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Just to update on the breather mod. I removed the check valve and was able to fit one of those small K&N valve cover breathers on the end of it. It has completely alleviated the seepage I used to get around the shifter area. I’m glad I checked this thread.
Can you share the K&N part number?
 

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i don’t know exactly, it was just one I had laying around the garage. looks like this
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Just to update on the breather mod. I removed the check valve and was able to fit one of those small K&N valve cover breathers on the end of it. It has completely alleviated the seepage I used to get around the shifter area. I’m glad I checked this thread.
Glad it fixed the issue. I'll be doing the same thing you did.
 

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Why does this trans need a breather filter instead of the poppet valve? Won't that eventually spray trans fluid in the engine compartment? More importantly, how have all the people with factory T-56's in their cars - older Camaro's, etc gotten by all these years?

I would love to install one of these kits in my auto car, but it's things like that preventing me from doing it. I would appreciate any feedback from someone that has installed one in an automatic car?

Al
 

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How far has anyone pushed the smaller 200mm TT Auto/N/A diff with the 6 spd trans? Are there guys drag racing with it on slicks?

Al
Didn't see this years back when you posted it, but just in case you were still wondering - the 200mm Auto diff has gone deep 9's @150ish with a 1.3x 60ft on an auto with bias ply slicks. Typical failure is at the pinion due to crush sleeve compression under severe shock loading. If one did a crush sleeve eliminator, I suspect the diff would be good for about the same on a well driven 6-spd, but probably for a few hero pulls not a consistent season-after-season sort of thing. The fastest 'hero run' I know of with a 6-spd and a 200mm was actually in a Grannas swapped MK4 that was high 9's at mid 140's. Never did get a 60ft on that, though.

People have fragged the 220mm 6spd diff at BPU power levels with the right combo of drag radials, aggressive clutch, clutch dump, etc, so you'd just be one botched launch away from disaster.

If you're going to keep aiming for 9's but don't want to swap to an IRS 8.8, I'd consider the PHR 6R80 conversion instead. Autos are just better at going fast and keeping shit alive.

Why does this trans need a breather filter instead of the poppet valve? Won't that eventually spray trans fluid in the engine compartment? More importantly, how have all the people with factory T-56's in their cars - older Camaro's, etc gotten by all these years?

I would love to install one of these kits in my auto car, but it's things like that preventing me from doing it. I would appreciate any feedback from someone that has installed one in an automatic car?

Al
I've seen those Tremecs occasionally come out of the box with a torn shifter seal, at least they sometimes did when I was still in the industry up through 2015 or so. I can't speak on newer Tremecs since I haven't had hands/eyes on an aftermarket Tremec out of the crate since 2016. Patrick94tt is a pretty diligent dude and I doubt he'd throw a breather on a trans to solve a shifter seal leak without inspecting the shifter seal, so that may or may not be the case on some of these instances.
Venting the trans with a breather would solve the problem of pressure pushing on all the seals, but I'd inspect the shifter seals carefully before doing a vent.

Depending on the application, some Tremec T56's and TR6060's have had vents, but they're like a differential vent in that they're always open but designed to not allow splashing oil to slip past. The vent into the engine compartment prevents fluid splash or leakage because it's simply too much hose to travel upward, since it's a gearbox not a pump it doesn't force the fluid that high or meaningfully displace enough fluid to worry about gearbox lubrication.
I've seen the same trick with a long breather hose done on other manual gearboxes for road racing, etc, both transverse and conventional, to prevent oil from being pushed past shaft seals or shifter seals.
 

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Yes, the vent almost looks like an auto trans fill tube, with a poppet valve on it. It appears like the top of it is in the engine compartment, just an auto trans fill tube.

There appears to be many other things to be weary of, like possibly needing to use those offset dowel pins, and the painstaking process of installing those. As much as I'd like to, this whole thing is probably a no-go for me. I watched the videos of correcting the speedo using a Bluetooth app. Does that mean you have to have that app running all the time for the speedo to work?

Yes, I'm familiar with how far you can push the auto diff with an auto. With how much I got tied up into that diff, I wouldn't dare launch it with a 6-spd.

Thanks,
Al
 

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I should have known I was singing hymns to the Pope when it came to limits on the 200mm differential - pardon my assumption! 🍺

The Grannas install is painstaking but that's why it avoids ALL of the other problems seen with a myriad of other adapter kits that don't similarly match things up precisely. 100% worth the trouble.

I've used a few different Dakota digitial VSS boxes to adjust VSS signal from various Tremec transmissions to match speedometers and ECU inputs in a variety of cars. I can't imagine why that wouldn't work with the Grannas T56 and a MK4. There's got to be a GM, Ford, or Dodge VSS that can install into the Magnum-F T56 and be made to work. It'd just take some trial and error to match one's gearing, tire height, etc.

I detest the idea of needing my phone to make music work in a car, let alone VSS/Speedo function!
 

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The Dakota digital box was cake to set up. The one I have doesn’t have Bluetooth it just installs tapping into the speed sensor signal from the trans. To set it up I just drove 60mph (or whatever speed you want) and matched a GPS verified speed from a phone app. Set it up once haven’t touched a thing since.
 

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I would love to hear from some automatic guys who converted. Is drilling the master cylinder hole as big of a disaster as it seems?

And back to the vent tube issue - I talked to a mechanic that deals with a lot of LS-1 cars, and he's never heard of the vent spewing oil on a T-56. Is it because of the higher RPM that a Supra runs compared to a typical V8?

Also, not sold on replacing the poppet valve with a K&N - wouldn't that allow moisture to infiltrate the transmission in humid climates? And if fluid seeps past a poppet valve, wouldn't it just spray out of an open K&N?

Al
 

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I would love to hear from some automatic guys who converted. Is drilling the master cylinder hole as big of a disaster as it seems?

And back to the vent tube issue - I talked to a mechanic that deals with a lot of LS-1 cars, and he's never heard of the vent spewing oil on a T-56. Is it because of the higher RPM that a Supra runs compared to a typical V8?

Also, not sold on replacing the poppet valve with a K&N - wouldn't that allow moisture to infiltrate the transmission in humid climates? And if fluid seeps past a poppet valve, wouldn't it just spray out of an open K&N?

Al
I’ve ran both the gr700 and the new magnum F, have not had a venting issue on either trans. It’s really simple, there is a O-ring you remove from the breather tube cap when installing the trans, that’s it. This takes care of the venting issue. Also with the gr700 I never had to mess with dowel pins or balancing at installation. The Bluetooth wiring harness with Speedo app is a piece of cake to install.

if You go to Joel’s website he has a ton of video content on the product as well as Purefunction channel
Shoe Gas Engineering Auto part Machine
 

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Also with the gr700 I never had to mess with dowel pins or balancing at installation.
What you're saying is you skipped the alignment verification step with a dowel indicator? Or was yours within spec?

What I am finally realizing is: the whole reason this step is even needed is the quicktime bellhousing is not made to precise tolerances, and usually needs to be centered up by replacing the factory dowel pins with hollow, offset pins.

Al
 

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I don't think it's been mentioned here yet, but Joel's new cast bell housing eliminates the need for the dowels, the index plate, and is supposedly quieter. I had the standard kit still sitting on the shelf uninstalled with the quick time housing, but ordered his cast bell to replace that when it was released.

 

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Now that is more like it! Really like the cast aluminum bell. Far more likely of this becoming a reality for me. However, I do have billet mains, so hopefully I won't need to mess with indexing it.

Al
 

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What you're saying is you skipped the alignment verification step with a dowel indicator? Or was yours within spec?

What I am finally realizing is: the whole reason this step is even needed is the quicktime bellhousing is not made to precise tolerances, and usually needs to be centered up by replacing the factory dowel pins with hollow, offset pins.

Al
right i didn’t have to do any indexing, it went in as expected. Maybe I got lucky with my quicktime housing. I’m currently running the new magnum F with the cast aluminum bell. Dont hesitate with any of Joel’s profucts, his customer service and support is included in all his kits.
 

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I just dropped my motor in and have to take it back out because I wasn't aware of having to index the bellhousing. Luckily don't have many things connected to the motor. After watching a bunch of videos apparently tremic transmissions require no more than .005" runout and voids the warranty if you don't check it. My motor has billet mains too so even more of a reason to check. The shop that did my mains is really good though and hasn't had any problem with oil pumps like some have. Yet I'm going to go through the hassle to know for sure its good....
 

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Hypothetically speaking: would you say that a twin turbo auto car with modest modifications (single turbo, piggybacks, etc) would increase in value with the T56 Magnum swap or decrease in value?

My thoughts are that the desirability of the car with the T56 may increase, but not sure on which way the value would go.

Opinions wanted!

Thanks,
Al
 

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Depending on who is wanting to purchase the car. Many want to resto-mod the Supra with all Grannas and PHR goodies….others want to leave as it is. Since your car is already modified, I would recommend going Grannas (I have the F aluminum kit and love it so I’m a bit biased). At this point I don’t see it hurting value for resale at all since you’ve already went single ect.
 
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