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2001 Nissan Altima SE
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I havent done my T56 swap yet in my RHD. I have no idea why the tunnel would be different from a LHD to a RHD but I'll have to take a look at that when I go ahead and install. Also I'm not using the aluminum bell but the Quick Time bell as I'm doing a GR1000F faceplate trans.
 

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94&93 vr4, 94 rx7, 98 2.5rs, 95 Supra TT
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I have a LHD Supra and installed the T56 Magnum F. I had trouble with the template. I printed it at 100% and made sure I had it oriented right and cut it out carefully. To me, something isn't right with it.

Here is the template cut out and held underneath the trans panel. I have the paper template flipped upside down. The "This side up" should face the cover panel. I'm only holding it like this to emphasize that the front edge of the template when held upside down, is parallel to the front edge of the tunnel cover.



Now look what happens when you have it oriented the correct way. The front edge of the paper isn't parallel with the tunnel cover. It actually pokes out past the edge.



So I think his template is mostly right, except for the front edge. I think it is slanting the wrong way. I sent him pics weeks ago when I encountered this and he said he was going to look into it. Anyways I cut my tunnel using his template and the front edge was wrong:( I had a gap on one side that the cover wouldn't cover. I ended up welding a lip onto the Grannas panel.



With the lip it hides the miss cut. It also makes it more secure as the seam sealer gets sandwiched on the front now just like it does on the back. This pic is just from a test fit. I removed it and repainted it before installing with seam sealer.



If anyone is reading this before cutting their opening out, I'd also recommend cutting 1/4" more on the drivers side. That nut that gets cut in half... Cut the line so you don't see the nut. Otherwise the edge is extremely close to the red base of the tremec shifter. The half a nut hanging down on mine actually hit it. I ground off the nut so it didn't stick down, but I should have cut off 1/4" more material. I will if I ever pull the trans down.


The final thing that bugs me is the shifter boot. He uses a Mr Gasket 1651 boot which is angled. The shifter sits up straight. Because it's angled it causes the boot to buckle in the 2/4/6. I think somewhere out there is probably a better boot that isn't angled that would work better. I think moving the boot back 1/4" would also make it more centered. What he has technically works though. Also I tore my boot just sliding it on. The edges of the shifter extension are rounded some, but they are still kind of sharp. I ended up filing mine down some more and wrapping the base with some electrical tape. I also ordered two new boots (one to replace the one I tore, and one to have as a spare).



I had the T56 Magnum before going to the T56 Magnum F. They were both a little noisy, but I think that is more because of my unsprung OS Giken clutch. I put some thermotek heat/sound mat on the top side of my tunnel and that helped quiet it down some. If any part of the trans is hitting the tunnel, it will amplify the noise. When I had the sikky setup I had to grind the heads down on the sikky bolts because they wanted to hit. With the Magnum F the reverse lockout solenoid was still rubbing even though I had dented it some. I put a block of wood on the passenger side of the tunnel to keep the trans from moving that way, and then really put a 1/4" dent on the other side with a pry tool. The reverse lockout has plenty of room now. I have some Tremec HP MTF fluid coming too that I want to try.

All in all, I'm happy with the trans. The Magnum F feels 100x better than the sikky setup. It is perfect. No wobble, smooth shifts. I've never driven a v160 car, but I have driven other 6 speeds (3000gt vr4s, sti, regular T56 in my rx7...). I'd rate the Magnum F a 10/10. I can't imagine it feeling better.

The tunnel cover and boot setup I'd rate a 6/10. It technically works but could use some improvements. I think Joel is more race oriented and sometimes underestimates how OCD some of us are. I'm buying an oem 6 speed trans tunnel just to keep in my parts room. That way worse case I could always cut the entire thing out.

My clutch I'd rate a 7/10. The pedal feel with the OS Giken is great. It's not hard to push in. It also holds power well. However its tricky to get use to. Avoid stop and go traffic in flip flops. It's also noisier than I'd like on decel or lugging. The mat helped ,and I just downshift if it's being too noisy. I'm at the point where I wouldn't mind trying a different clutch with springs. However clutches for these cars are around $2k. I wish I could try one before buying. If I have my trans out again I may add a later of thermotek wrap under the tunnel. I did that on my rx7 (layer on top, layer on bottom).
 

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Thank you for all the extra information and pictures @fastfalcon94
Looks like 2JZ Motorsports offers a nicer transmission tunnel cover and transmission mount.
Not sure how their kit is comparable to the Grannas kit, since they do not offer it on their website.

Casper
 

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Looks like 2JZ Motorsports offers a nicer transmission tunnel cover and transmission mount.

Casper
The 2JZ Motorsports site is listed as "not secure", and clicking on almost anything redirects you to a shop in Australia.

It would be nice to use a 6 spd tunnel, though that requires welding at home. Something a lot of us can't do.

How do people like the solid aluminum driveshaft "donut"? You go from 2-piece to 1-piece driveshaft, and from rubberized donut to solid aluminum. Just curious how the NVH is? Has anyone ever cut open a factory donut? I was curious how much of it is steel, it looks like almost the whole thing is made out of rubber.

Thanks,
Al
 

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Been rocking the Grannas kit with Aluminum bellhousing in my RHD car for over a year now without complaint. When I first installed the aluminum doughnut/ one piece driveshaft, I installed it 90* out so there was a good amount of vibration. Popped the bolts out and rotated it and got rid of almost all of it, the rest might just be rear wheel balance.

My only complaint from it was the trans sounded like a box of rocks in 3/4th around 2500 rpm. But just installed a ATI on the car after my stock one noped out, and it seemed to fix a lot of the noise.

Also theWillwood master, Tilton slave with a RXT has been amazing. Not a ton of noise/chatter and drives like a stock civic clutch
 

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I don't understand how it could be installed "out" of phase. How did you know it was specifically 90 deg? That doesn't sound great. I've never had bad wheel balance cause vibration, I am guessing this sudden vibration didn't exist before the swap?

I would definitely be going with the ST-246 clutch. There should be no reason you can't run it down to 1800 RPM in the high gears. If you have to keep it above 3k RPM, that would burn a lot of gas.

Al
 

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I don't understand how it could be installed "out" of phase. How did you know it was specifically 90 deg? That doesn't sound great. I've never had bad wheel balance cause vibration, I am guessing this sudden vibration didn't exist before the swap?

I would definitely be going with the ST-246 clutch. There should be no reason you can't run it down to 1800 RPM in the high gears. If you have to keep it above 3k RPM, that would burn a lot of gas.

Al
I believe it was something with the u-joints/ balance of the driveshaft. But by unbolting the ujoint and rotating it 90* it took away pretty much all of the vibrations. The ATI took away the rest.

But I can run it down to whatever RPM without issue, the trans was just a bit noisy, which after talking to Liberty at PRI they said it's not uncommon due to possible loose tolerances from the factory. My OEM balancer was also on its way out, and after replacing it most it not all of the noise went away. Havent driven it much since it went on, but on the short drives it seemed much happier
 

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I’ve had the swap for awhile (it was the earlier ones available with the sikky short shifter) and probably have driven it for about 15k miles at least before downing the car to do my twin setup. It does have the “box of rocks” sound at very low rpm’s in high gear, say going up a slight incline; at rpm’s that I would consider lugging, but that may be attributed to my OS Giken TR2CD twin disc setup. The only time I remember hearing this sound, I could tell it was coming from the trans itself. My car is already really noisy anyway and the OS Twin disc rattles like a dry clutch Ducati (which appeals to me)

As far as the rear aluminum “donut” i didn’t do anything unusual about installing it, and haven’t done more than double checking that the bolts were tight only once in the past few years. From what I could tell it didn’t add any NVH back there.
 

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1993.5 Black on Tan, GTE, RPS T72 Single kit, 6 speed
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i have had two grannas kits magnum and magnum F. neither sound like a box of gravel if paired with the right clutch. I run the Mcloud RST double disk and there is only slight flywheel resonating at those rpm’s. the new Tilton clutch that just released apparently eliminates it
 

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I saw something where you might not be able to use the targa brace with the aftermarket driveshafts. What is the diameter of the aluminum driveshaft, is it 3 1/2?

I measured 27mm between the brace and stock 60mm driveshaft, though it appears there is a little less clearance at the heat shield. I think you could drop the brace down 1/2" by elongating the holes and adding a spacer at the front two holes.

Also, do you have to press the clutch in to start the car with the Grannas kit? Just curious, I don't recall anything mentioned about a clutch switch.

Thanks,
Al
 

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The 4” driveshaft doesn’t fit. The 3.5” barely fits and sometimes hits. The 3” clears easy. With the 3.5” you can trim the targa brace for clearance. It doesn’t require enough to affect the structural integrity.
 
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Also, do you have to press the clutch in to start the car with the Grannas kit? Just curious, I don't recall anything mentioned about a clutch switch.

Thanks,
Al
Going from auto the manual, no you do not. When installing it, they have you tie the auto neutral safety switch wires together to not need it. But it should be deleted anyway because 2j's can crank walk with too heavy of a clutch
 

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I guess that's cool. A little dangerous, if you forget you're in a gear instead of neutral. Might get the nickname "Lurch".

How long did it take to get your kit? I was watching one of Joel's videos where he had 50 transmissions waiting for parts to send out.

Al
 

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1993.5 Black on Tan, GTE, RPS T72 Single kit, 6 speed
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His older kits were the 4” but all new kits should come with a 3.5” for better clearance. I don’t run my driveshaft targa brace but Really should put it back on.

joel will tell you if all is in stock Depending on what clutch or MC you order
 

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1993.5 Black on Tan, GTE, RPS T72 Single kit, 6 speed
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The 4” driveshaft doesn’t fit. The 3.5” barely fits and sometimes hits. The 3” clears easy. With the 3.5” you can trim the targa brace for clearance. It doesn’t require enough to affect the structural integrity.
I ran the 4” for a year without any issues. It was tight lol
 

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I ran the 4” for a year without any issues. It was tight lol
Nice ok. I ran 4” driveshaft in my V160 car and it cleared too but recently did t56 with 4” and it made contact. Just my experience.
 
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I guess that's cool. A little dangerous, if you forget you're in a gear instead of neutral. Might get the nickname "Lurch".

How long did it take to get your kit? I was watching one of Joel's videos where he had 50 transmissions waiting for parts to send out.

Al
I always check for neutral when getting in the car, and pretty much never park it in gear, so not a big issue for me.

But mine was shipped within a week, but that was Nov of 21
 
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