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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone.

I have owned my MKIV Supra now somewhere around 3.5 years. I have only put about 4,000 miles on the car and have spent this time trying to get the car running and looking as close to new as possible.

Performance wise I have a 3" Megan down-pipe, 4" HKS Ti, K&N panel filter, fuel cut defender with patch harness, manual boost controller, GF210 springs, Southbound Stage 3 Endurance. All the fluids have been changed and the transmission leak was fixed with an o-ring replacement on the shifter rod. Car is also running 275/40/17 R888Rs on the rear.

The car is BPU on about 16-17psi and runs great. No CELs, just a bit of smoke at startup (valve seals). I recently just sold my swapped 13b rx8 and am looking for a new endeavor.

I have been reading all I can on what works and want some critique of my future plans to avoid some common mistakes.

My ultimate goals are to make 450-500 rwhp on 93 octane and eventually 700-750 rwhp on E85 for glory runs. I have picked these levels because it has been stated that once you past these horsepower levels its is pretty much impossible to hook on the streets. I also love the factory feel of the SB Endurance 3 clutch and it seems like once you get around these levels it may not hold the power.

My plan is to changeover to a single turbo in two stages to give me time to enjoy the lower horsepower level before cranking it up again.

Stage 1
Turbo Kit (with MAF provisions for factory ECU) - FSR, maybe PHR
FMIC (no BOV) - ETS 4"
Innovative SCG-1 (Boost Controller, Boost Gauge, AFR)

Stage 2
Full Fuel System (800 horsepower rated on E85)
Standalone ECU (ECUMaster Black, Pro EFI, Haltech 2500, etc.)
GSC S1 Cams, springs, tensioner, and valve stem seals

Probably Stage 1 this year, and Stage 2 next year. Who knows could be sooner/later.

I pretty much don't see a need to go with a tubular manifold setup since it doesn't seem to be necessary when you are below 800 wheel horsepower.

I have been pretty much been building and rebuilding the PHR and FSR kits over and over again to try and figure out which is the best. They both seem to be good quality and fitment, and both have positives and negatives.

I am leaning towards the FSR because the manifold seems to flow a bit better, they offer a 4" down-pipe, and I like the Turbosmart gate option. I don't like how it pushes the turbo so close to the frame rail, but you can't have everything. I know that BW turbos seem to not fit that manifold, but I have a divided S362SXE 0.91 AR with 3" v-band connection (no Marmon) that I would like to try and use as its already sitting on my shelf. If it doesn't fit, I will simply order a 6266, 6466, or 6766 (which ever will fit my horsepower best without putting to much pressure on the conrods). I would like to try and make a ETS 4" FMIC work with the kit if it fits, unless someone has a better FMIC suggestion for the FSR kit. Lastly, since I will be running the factory ECU/factory fuel system with the first stage, I plan on using the Innovative SCG-1 to monitor AFR and boost under WOT to make sure I don't go lean from pegging the meter, maxing injectors, or maxing the fuel pump. The electronic boost control feature will also let me dial in the right amount of boost for safety.

I don't want to get too deep into the Stage 2 items as that can be for another day, but would like to put my order in for the Stage 1 items in the next few weeks so I can start removing the factory twins.

If anyone has any constructive criticism on the parts/kits I am looking at, possible fitment issues, the way I am staging things, or things I may have missed entirely, please let me know as my experience is limited to rotaries and cam in block V8s.

John
 

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Your right on the cast manifold for the power levels you seek. Im on a PHR cast mani with phr 3" downpipe on a pte 6466, bc 264 cams, south bend stage 3 endurance clutch making 475-500rwhp on crappy canadian pump gas and 737rwhp on E85.

Don't forget to change your crank pulley/harmonic balancer, fluidampr or Ati if you havnt already

Also i would factor in the Standalone right away so you can monitor and tune the car safely even on your stage 1 before upgrading fuel system/e85 since you are going that route anyways. Dont have to worry about MAF anymore

Also with your standalone choices, i would skip all the random gauges and just get a 3.5(or bigger) BTI touch screen gauge that lets you monitor boost, AFR, injector duty, Ethanol%, fuel psi, IAT, coolant temp etc etc everything all in one.

Other then that, your plan looks good
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the advice on the balancer, I will definitely check the condition of the factory one when I start pulling the motor apart.

You definitely have me thinking about jumping right into the standalone. I have also read about some possible boost creep issues with these cast manifolds and awkward wastegate placements.

While I don't need it, I wonder if it would be pertinent to jump right into a S23 kit with a 60mm Tial gate option forgo all the MAF stuff and just bite the bullet and get the ProEFI, 2500, ECU Black. It would add add about 5k to the initial budget, but if I plan on keeping this car forever, maybe its worth it?

Would I regret the jump to the S23 kit, or is the cast stuff all i'll ever need for 450-750 horsepower and it would just a be a waste?
 

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I did stand alone right off the bat. I'm still on the stock twins with a ETS front mount and complete Tomei Ti exhaust. I'm working on going single right now and I'm glad I got my Motec first.
 

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.

Stage 1
Turbo Kit (with MAF provisions for factory ECU) - FSR, maybe PHR
FMIC (no BOV) - ETS 4"
Innovative SCG-1 (Boost Controller, Boost Gauge, AFR)

As someone who has been in the Supra world a long time and I also tune Supras every day, I would still say go in steps. The car will run perfect on the stock ecu at low boost with the MAF up to 500whp(US spec TT). Then save to go all in (Fuel system, ProEFI/Motec, etc).
 

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Ah cool. Assuming you have check valves or have wired open the IACV, EBV, EGCV then ? If you wanted to try Seq. @Stu Hagen is/was running Vipec in Seq.
View attachment 261819
Have the check valves to keep the other actuators open. I'm not concerned with going back to sequential as I'm going single and the Motec was the first step towards that. I have all the parts but the turbo kit itself right now.
 

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As someone who has been in the Supra world a long time and I also tune Supras every day, I would still say go in steps. The car will run perfect on the stock ecu at low boost with the MAF up to 500whp(US spec TT). Then save to go all in (Fuel system, ProEFI/Motec, etc).
100% Agree with the above advice. Great example vid below
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I think I'm going to put in an order at driftmotion for a FSR turbo kit, 4" downpipe, recirculated turbosmart gate, 6466, MAF provisions, and coated manifold and housing...

Will order the ETS 4 inch and boost, afr, boost controller when I get started on the install....
 

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Going to be similar to my setup. Have a 5" ETS intercooler and waiting on my Whifbitz kit with 6466 and 4" DP to come in.
 

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Thanks for the advice on the balancer, I will definitely check the condition of the factory one when I start pulling the motor apart.

You definitely have me thinking about jumping right into the standalone. I have also read about some possible boost creep issues with these cast manifolds and awkward wastegate placements.

While I don't need it, I wonder if it would be pertinent to jump right into a S23 kit with a 60mm Tial gate option forgo all the MAF stuff and just bite the bullet and get the ProEFI, 2500, ECU Black. It would add add about 5k to the initial budget, but if I plan on keeping this car forever, maybe its worth it?

Would I regret the jump to the S23 kit, or is the cast stuff all i'll ever need for 450-750 horsepower and it would just a be a waste?
I run a 46mm precision wastegate with my setup, had boost creep issues on cold nights(below 10° celsius) and low elevation last year when my Link G4+ standalone was running open loop boost control... the standalone came in handy for that as my tuner put in a boost cut at 32psi, target boost was 28psi.

This year, my tuner changed my boost to a closed loop boost control, and i can't hit boost cut even if i tried.... took it out to the same spots, as cold as 6° celsius in the same areas i would overboost before, but boost is stable and havnt had the issue since.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes I am doing some sort of BTI or screen with whatever standalone I go with.

Order is in with DM, i'm guessing it will be a minimum of a month before I see the kit.
 

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Pretty much exactly what I'm about to order from DM ... No MAF though since I have an Elite 2500 ready to go in. Did you get journal or DBB turbo ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Pretty much exactly what I'm about to order from DM ... No MAF though since I have an Elite 2500 ready to go in. Did you get journal or DBB turbo ?
6466 only comes in BB. I just want to get it up and running on a MAF first. I will run around at that power level for a while before cams/standalone/fuel. Jumping right to 700-800 hp takes the fun out of the process.
 
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How well is it going to run on the MAF alone? I cant imagine more than 4-5psi without issues, right?

Edit: JK, I thought this was the GE ECU we were talking about. You'll be plenty safe with the GTE ECU on MAF for quite awhile, as someone stated above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
The maf seems to peg, aka hit 5 volts, around 500 wheel horsepower maybe a bit more from what I've read. This also seems to be about the point where the injectors and oem fuel pump max aswell.

So with a factory ecu and factory fuel system, I would guess 450-475 is about what I would shoot for. The factory ecu seems to run it rich on WOT, like 10.5:1 AF, which will kill a bit of power.

With a 6466 and stock cams, my guess is I'll hit this target around 15-16 psi, maybe more or less. As long as the mixture stays rich this should be safe. I'll just have to monitor air/fuel to see I don't go lean in the upper RPMs. If it does go lean, I'll lower the boost until it's sage.

This is USDM TT BTW, this strategy won't work on a GE model (small injectors) or JDM (no maf)

Also not a supra expert, but I have decent knowledge from tuning my mustang that also has a MAF
 
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