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Hello everyone.

I have owned my MKIV Supra now somewhere around 3.5 years. I have only put about 4,000 miles on the car and have spent this time trying to get the car running and looking as close to new as possible.

Performance wise I have a 3" Megan down-pipe, 4" HKS Ti, K&N panel filter, fuel cut defender with patch harness, manual boost controller, GF210 springs, Southbound Stage 3 Endurance. All the fluids have been changed and the transmission leak was fixed with an o-ring replacement on the shifter rod. Car is also running 275/40/17 R888Rs on the rear.

The car is BPU on about 16-17psi and runs great. No CELs, just a bit of smoke at startup (valve seals). I recently just sold my swapped 13b rx8 and am looking for a new endeavor.

I have been reading all I can on what works and want some critique of my future plans to avoid some common mistakes.

My ultimate goals are to make 450-500 rwhp on 93 octane and eventually 700-750 rwhp on E85 for glory runs. I have picked these levels because it has been stated that once you past these horsepower levels its is pretty much impossible to hook on the streets. I also love the factory feel of the SB Endurance 3 clutch and it seems like once you get around these levels it may not hold the power.

My plan is to changeover to a single turbo in two stages to give me time to enjoy the lower horsepower level before cranking it up again.

Stage 1
Turbo Kit (with MAF provisions for factory ECU) - FSR, maybe PHR
FMIC (no BOV) - ETS 4"
Innovative SCG-1 (Boost Controller, Boost Gauge, AFR)

Stage 2
Full Fuel System (800 horsepower rated on E85)
Standalone ECU (ECUMaster Black, Pro EFI, Haltech 2500, etc.)
GSC S1 Cams, springs, tensioner, and valve stem seals

Probably Stage 1 this year, and Stage 2 next year. Who knows could be sooner/later.

I pretty much don't see a need to go with a tubular manifold setup since it doesn't seem to be necessary when you are below 800 wheel horsepower.

I have been pretty much been building and rebuilding the PHR and FSR kits over and over again to try and figure out which is the best. They both seem to be good quality and fitment, and both have positives and negatives.

I am leaning towards the FSR because the manifold seems to flow a bit better, they offer a 4" down-pipe, and I like the Turbosmart gate option. I don't like how it pushes the turbo so close to the frame rail, but you can't have everything. I know that BW turbos seem to not fit that manifold, but I have a divided S362SXE 0.91 AR with 3" v-band connection (no Marmon) that I would like to try and use as its already sitting on my shelf. If it doesn't fit, I will simply order a 6266, 6466, or 6766 (which ever will fit my horsepower best without putting to much pressure on the conrods). I would like to try and make a ETS 4" FMIC work with the kit if it fits, unless someone has a better FMIC suggestion for the FSR kit. Lastly, since I will be running the factory ECU/factory fuel system with the first stage, I plan on using the Innovative SCG-1 to monitor AFR and boost under WOT to make sure I don't go lean from pegging the meter, maxing injectors, or maxing the fuel pump. The electronic boost control feature will also let me dial in the right amount of boost for safety.

I don't want to get too deep into the Stage 2 items as that can be for another day, but would like to put my order in for the Stage 1 items in the next few weeks so I can start removing the factory twins.

If anyone has any constructive criticism on the parts/kits I am looking at, possible fitment issues, the way I am staging things, or things I may have missed entirely, please let me know as my experience is limited to rotaries and cam in block V8s.

John
I liked the staged approach your taking (I've still got the MAF), and the FSR kit edged out the PHR for me also. The BTI touch screen gauge looks useful also. I look forward to your progress.
 

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Just dropped my order with DM :D Went with the 6266 DBB. No E85 up here in CT dangit, but once it's up and running on the Elite 2500 I'll look into adding a water/meth setup. I do have a VVTi head to put on with Kelford V202-C cams. Not looking for high HP, just fun on the street with crazy-quick response.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Been waiting about a month for my FSR turbo kit (PTE6466 with 4" DP and recirculated Turbosmart gate). I know DriftMotion is slammed with orders right now so I don't want to waste Aarons time with questions as he seems too busy to respond.

I want to order the FMIC kit, I assume I will have to modify it a bit to kit the FSR turbo compressor outlet location. I like the ETS kits even though they are a bit pricey. I noticed each successive inch of thickness adds about $100 to the cost.

When its all said and done, I plan on pushing about 500 rwhp on 93 and 700-750 rwhp on E85. I will probably end up making the fuel system good from 800-1000hp just for headroom sake as there is nothing worse then having to buy a set of expensive injectors twice.

Is there any reason I should go bigger than the 4-inch core? Is there any other FMIC kits I should be looking at?

Any help would be appreciated as I would like to order this next
 

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ETS 4” is perfect for you
 
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Update

It looks like DM has shipped my turbo kit and it should be here next week.

I ordered a 4" ETS intercooler core from MVP. I have been practicing on my new TIG welder (AHP 203xi) so I will likely be fabricating the mid-pipe and charge pipes.

I am having difficulty starting on tearing apart the engine bay because of how flawless everything is running. Would be much easier to take the plunge if a turbo was blown.

Anyways, this may be the last time this perfect OEM example looks like this. I will likely start a build thread once everything gets moving. I also sold my rotary car to a guy in Texas and he picked it up so I have plenty of room for this build.

264087
264088
 
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^ Agree with (slight 🤔) hesitation in tearing down the car when the stock turbos still work well. But what you have planned sounds great. I look forward to your build. Are those 10 foot ceilings in the garage? Will you have access to a lift at all?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
^ Agree with (slight 🤔) hesitation in tearing down the car when the stock turbos still work well. But what you have planned sounds great. I look forward to your build. Are those 10 foot ceilings in the garage? Will you have access to a lift at all?
No they are like 9-9.5' or something. No lift, just jack stands as usual. It's nearly impossible to find a home in my area with a tall garage, everything is so cookie cutter here. I did find one of the only homes that did have a 25 foot deep garage which was the main reason for the purchase....

It looks like I will need to order short exhaust studs, a rototator for the thermostat housing, new lower radiator house, and probably a 170 degree thermostat. Any reason why I should go colder?
 

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The garage did look deep, so that helps a lot. I'd forgotten about the lower waterneck rotator for the build (will add that and the new hose). I'm planning for the 170 degree thermostat, but I'll only be street driving (no track/drag strip work). Without researching further, I think stock is 180 degree. I once went 20 degrees cooler on the thermostat of an old Mazda pickup truck I had, and the (terrible) gas mileage got even worse. Others here may have advice on going "colder" than the 170 degree thermostat.
 
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Haha no going back now. Honestly removing the turbos weren't that bad. Now putting them back seems to be 5x the job. For the "bitch bolt" I simply used a few different extensions, a swivel joint, and deep socket 14mm. Was able to lead all of those under the car and with a large socket wrench and cheater bar was able to break it in the first try.

Now to get everything cleaned up and figure what to do with all these lines I have to manage and close.

264110
 
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Strokercharged 95GT,

Definitely no going back now. Can you post a pick of the exhaust side of your engine block (now that it's exposed); I'd like to see water/oil places on the block. Thanks. How many band-aids on your knuckles?
 

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Oh, and stock thermostat is 180 degrees.
 
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