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Just finished my single turbo PHR install today. Did an inspection of everything with motor running. Noticed the crank pulley seems to have a very slight wobble. After researching on the forum I've learned it's a common failure point of the motor. The slight wobble is only noticeable at 600RPM idle. Any increase in RPM it is no longer visible. Anyways, I was looking at my options and the name brand companies are rather expensive. ATI, Titan, Fluidampr, OEM, etc... Also read negative feedback on several of these. I'm not trying to be cheap but want opinions on this crank pulley.


The price is extremely low I realize that. However the quality looks good. The several reviews were good as far as fitment. Unknown of course is longevity. Buyer comments state is weighs more than OEM. Wouldn't this be a good thing vs one of less weight than OEM? It has been balanced also the drill marks are visible on back side. Please share your advise and opinions on what approach I should take.

Today I noticed a metal and metal clanking sound right where the automatic transmission meets the motor. It isn't extremely loud but it is noticeable. Is the flywheel a common point of failure? If not what else would cause the sound in this specific area?
 

iSPOOL
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I'll suggest getting a quality damper crank pulley and you wont have to worry about it in the future. I picked up the ATI Titan one back in 2013.

No matter the power level you have its helps to have an upgraded crank pulley and welded timing gear because it's simply annoying when the OEM crank pulley separates and leaves you stranded...馃槱馃槀.

*Pictures from 2012 when mine failed on me.
 

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Like shady said, man.... you don't want to be stranded.

Don't go cheap now. That WILL come apart again. The HB on mine came apart and destroyed my rear right wheel.

You don't want to go that route, trust me. Here is some pics.
I put on a fluidampr. I got it for $350 brand new.



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From the land down under
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Ouch...That damage to your wheel is absolutely brutal!! Do you suspect that you ran over the balancer as it parted ways with your engine? How fast were you going?
 

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It's insane to consider anything other than a proven upgraded damper. ATI/Titan or Fluidampr both work well.
 

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I was doing a lil slow WOT from 1st to 2nd. And I heard a metallic pop, grind, clank, clank and a whoosh. LoL. Yeah, it wasn't pumping air when I noticed the big hole right in the middle of the barrel.

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From the land down under
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I went with a new Toyota one. They still sell them! Unless you're running in a sanctioned class and need the SFI stamp, I like the Toyota one. Some of those aftermarket ones are recommended to be rebuilt periodically.

Al
I put a brand new OEM one on a few years back, but have only travelled under 10k km's since then, so I know it has a lot of life left in it, but recently, I have thought more and more that I should just get an upgraded one, and replace the tensioner bracket at the same time, just to try and protect it as much as possible, especially given those 2 items have been well documented to break, and typically cause a whole lot of pain/expense.
 

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The crank pulley is a serviceable item, but I'm not sure how long (time/mileage) they should last. I replaced mine in mid 2019 with a new one from Toyota, after 24 years and 112,000 miles. Thankfully all the parts stayed in the engine bay, and are now part of a "trophy" tree hanging in the garage!
 

From the land down under
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I cant recall exactly, but I have a feeling that its the same as a cambelt...100k kms, or 10 years, which ever comes first.

I replaced mine with another OEM pulley in 2013, but have only done about 10k km since then.

My next one will be an ATI or similar, along with a billet tensioner bracket.
 

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my original one had 220k on it before i replaced it a few months ago. replaced it with another new OE pulley. my original one looked just find and had no cracking but i was given a new one for free so figured why not.
 

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It is the star shaped gear behind the crank pulley gear, it's a good idea to have the two pieces spot welded together to prevent the star from turning and giving an incorrect signal to the crankshaft position sensor.

The timing belt tensioner bracket is the one people replace with a billet steel one. Should be considered mandatory when changing to "interference" cams.

For the crank pulley - they last forever on an automatic car. On a manual car, every shift (clutch engagement) pulls on the pulley in two different directions for a split second. That exposes any weakness in an older pulley.

Al
 

iSPOOL
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My Supra is automatic and my crank pulley separated on me. Not entirely sure what factors went into it but it will certainly happen. I was past 100k miles in the Florida environment.

When your timing star separates from the gear your car will shut off like mine did in the fast lane coming back from the beach. Not fun at all 馃槓.

You should be able to find videos and photos of how & where people weld it.
 

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Fluidampr here and happy with it - no rebuilds necessary. Given the critical nature of the part in being properly calibrated to reduce crank vibration/harmonics I would only go with a high quality OE equivalent or a fluidampr.
 
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