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1jz-gte motivation
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805 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hit up the search, but still gotta question. Minus the shielded wires, what gauge/type of wire should I use for the exention. Thanks guys. Also, on a side note, I don't have my motor here with me right now. What size couplers should I use for the aluminum intake pipes to the "air box" pipes? Also, what size for the radiator pipe too? Thanks.
 

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going broke fast
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majority of the other wire's are 18 and 22 gauge.the coupler off the intake is 3".i got a black 4ply silicone 90 if you need it.
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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7,014 Posts
70% of the wires are 18ga or smaller.

there are a handful of wires that are 16ga

a few of them are 12ga.

so get 2 small spools of 18ga primary wire, 1 small spool of 14ga primary wire, 1 small spool of 12ga primary wire. use the fine electronic solder, the kind that comes in the clear plastic cylinder. not the larger diameter "Oatey" electric solder. that stuff has a different silver/tin content and ahigher melting temp. plus the rosin core in the larger dia. oatey solder doesnt flow as well as the flux core in the finer electrical solder. the shit i prefer comes in a tube about 5" tall and 0.75" diameter. pick up the heat shrink from home depot. get 2 packs of the medium sized tubing and 4 packs of the smaller stuff. the medium sized is labled as 20-12 AWG, and looks to be about 8mm ID. the smaller stuff i think is labled as 22-14 AWG and appears to bea bout 6mm ID. i bought all medium sized stuff and it wouldnt shrink down enough for the smaller 18ga-22ga wires.
 

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1jz-gte motivation
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805 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Wow, thanks alot. that write up will save me quite a few trips to Home Depot. Your the man.
 

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Dr. Jeff Lange
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9,352 Posts
flubyux2 said:
70% of the wires are 18ga or smaller.

there are a handful of wires that are 16ga

a few of them are 12ga.

so get 2 small spools of 18ga primary wire, 1 small spool of 14ga primary wire, 1 small spool of 12ga primary wire. use the fine electronic solder, the kind that comes in the clear plastic cylinder. not the larger diameter "Oatey" electric solder. that stuff has a different silver/tin content and ahigher melting temp. plus the rosin core in the larger dia. oatey solder doesnt flow as well as the flux core in the finer electrical solder. the shit i prefer comes in a tube about 5" tall and 0.75" diameter. pick up the heat shrink from home depot. get 2 packs of the medium sized tubing and 4 packs of the smaller stuff. the medium sized is labled as 20-12 AWG, and looks to be about 8mm ID. the smaller stuff i think is labled as 22-14 AWG and appears to bea bout 6mm ID. i bought all medium sized stuff and it wouldnt shrink down enough for the smaller 18ga-22ga wires.
Or buy a nice spool of solder, and have it for a good 20 years! Yeah! Haha... I've had the same spool for forever, I love it. I do have a couple of those "pocket tube" ones though too.
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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7,014 Posts
Jeff Lange said:
Or buy a nice spool of solder, and have it for a good 20 years! Yeah! Haha... I've had the same spool for forever, I love it. I do have a couple of those "pocket tube" ones though too.
well, since you ahve a gigantic spool... then youll probalby have no use for the pocket tube gimmick! you should just send them down my way... :1poke: i would love to find a huge spool of that fine electrical solder w/ flux core.
 

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Dr. Jeff Lange
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9,352 Posts
Aren't there any electronics stores around there? I'm sure they'll have some.

There are a few places around here with great stuff. :) Coloured heat-shrink, multi-size heat shrink packs (nice plastic cases). Active Components and B&E Electronics FTW!

(PS: Nice avatar ;))
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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7,014 Posts
we have Radio Shack, and thats about it as far as main stream electronics stores. the multi size heat shrink packs are good, sometimes. i got a few of those and i ended up w/ alot of one or 2 left over sizes that i have nothing to use them on!!! lol... i use up all the smaller and mid size tubing first. theres bad-ass mail order stuff, like from the newark catalog. sweet-jesus, that thing is bigger than a phone book! theres cool stuff that i dont even know exists in that catalog!

(PS; thanks jeff, its in the spirit of Jeff History month!)
 

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1jz-gte motivation
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805 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
bringing the thread back for one short minute...How did you guys go about re-wiring the KS? Any special tips besides using the 2.0 wire. I already know that. Anything you guys did special or just simply solder and shield?
 

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I'll nevAr go single!
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994 Posts
I bought a 15 foot long thing of heat shrink, I think 1/8 or something like that when shrunk, used almost all of it. Was like $4 shipped I believe, off ebay. No need for buying multiple packs and not being able to use half the heatshrink.
 

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Flea420 said:
I bought a 15 foot long thing of heat shrink, I think 1/8 or something like that when shrunk, used almost all of it. Was like $4 shipped I believe, off ebay. No need for buying multiple packs and not being able to use half the heatshrink.
Harbor Freight has them in rolls as well. Almost same price...
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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thats freakin sweet... im so doing this next time..

btw, my services are available if anyone wants their harness extended and the MA70 body connectors installed.
 

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1jz-gte motivation
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805 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
One more thing... what do you guys wrap your harness back up with? Just electrical tape and some of the plastic loom shit? Also, what specifically has to be done when rewiring the knock sensors? I've already got the USB cable. Thanks again guys.
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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Ive tried to adopt the factory method of covering the harness. the main section of the harness has tape spiralled around it... with about a 1" gap between each rotation of tape. In the past, ive taped the harness up and overlapping the previous rotation by about 1/3 to 1/4 the width of the tape. however, when i do this, the harness ends up being very stiff and wont bend. when you dont overlap the harness, its alot easier to bend the harness to take the factory route of the 7M harness. once its heat cycled from the midday sun and cooled, it should set up in that form. then, just apply the 1.5" ID wire loom cover, then tape it up over the loom. dont try to tape the wires, then install the loom and then tape the loom. then you end up w/ too much tape and its too stiff to bend.

strip the usb cable. you should find 4 center conductors surrounded by shielding. you Can use one usb cable for both knock sensors. you can twist the 4 conductors into pairs on both ends.
 

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I am trying to use the shielded wires from my 7mgte harness..... it turns out theirs not enough wires for all the shielded ones in the 1jz harness... what did u guys do about this???
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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7,014 Posts
what ive been doing is just stripping RG6 television coaxial cable of its braided sheilding. all you have to do is get a razor knife. insert it about 1-2mm, and pull back on it. you can feel the tip of the knife as it snags the sheilding under it. dont cut INTO the sheilding. but simply strip the plastic sheath off the cable. then cut both ends off the entire cable. the sheilding will expand and contract like a chinese finger trap, if youre familiar w/ those. just push it from one end and itll bunch up and loosen its grip on the cable inside it. just push it off the opposite end of the cable. you now have tons of sheilding. ive gota bout 30 feet left.
 

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k i just thought their was a way of doing it using the toyota stuff...... i ll just go buy some duel core shielded wire off a local car audio shop..... thanks guys..... does anywhere know a place to buy the "pins" for toyota connectors, I am pritty sure that they are the same as a GM connector pins but i am not sure, i've already checked with toyota and they are abunch of dicks and pritty much ignore the fact that I live lol.
 
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