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Here's what I did for the hatch bumper replacement:

1) Ordered a pair of lower bumpers (p/n 67293-14051)
2) Removed the old bumper off the backing plate (the rubber tears off easily when worn)

Old bumper removed


Old backing plate left on car


3) Same situation on both sides, because of the threadlock screw from the factory, I used an impact screwdriver to remove one of the screw (the other was stuck).

4) Using a plier, I pulled and twisted till the backing plate ripped off the stuck screw (*Warning! Some paint scratches may occur, I sanded the scratched area and used touch up paint since it's really not visible with the new bumper installed).

Here's a pick with the backing plate twisted off and a screw remaining


Mangled backing plate



5) Using a vise grip plier, remove the stuck screw slowly avoiding slipping the plier's grip on the screw as much as possible so not to F*** the screw head up.



6) Installation of the new ones are easy, just screw in the bumpers with the arrow side up.

Left side


Right side
 

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Thanks! I've always wondered what the loctite screws looked like after removing the stock bumpstop.
 

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I used a similar method that I think has less potential to damage paint (if you are careful)

0. Don't attempt to use a screwdriver!!!!
1. Pull Old bumpers off (if you cut them a bit it makes it a little easier)
2. Using a Dremel and a cutting wheel CAREFULLY cut the outside edge off of the metal backing plate left on your car. (Do this slowly...all you are doing is trying to make some room for your vice-grips).
3. Use Vice Grips to break the screws loose from the loctite deathgrip.
4. Once Loose use a screwdriver (randomly I had a nice Toyota one that worked pefectly) to remove the screws the rest of the way...you will want to keep your palm on the back of the screwdriver to keep it seated fully in the screw.

NOW THEY ARE OUT!

When you are putting the new screws in I suggest that you use an M5x12mm ALLEN HEADS - this makes putting them back in rediculously easy and if you need to take them out ever again you have a tool perfectly shaped to get at them!

Hope that helps...I must admit doing it the way that I did took a long time since I didn't want to scratch/cut anything...but I am pleased with the results!

Good Luck
 

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My method involves a dremel but its safer on paint. Its basically the same as flash_e_gt's advice but rather than cutting the back plate just cut a big slot on the head of the screws, enough to use a big flathead to turn the screws out. Its a tad safer on the paint.
 

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I was going to do that, but was afraid if I cut too deep, and the screw broke...that I would be stuck and not be able to get it out.
 

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flash_e_gt said:
I was going to do that, but was afraid if I cut too deep, and the screw broke...that I would be stuck and not be able to get it out.
my screw broke in there.
:(
 

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StickyRice said:
My method involves a dremel but its safer on paint. Its basically the same as flash_e_gt's advice but rather than cutting the back plate just cut a big slot on the head of the screws, enough to use a big flathead to turn the screws out. Its a tad safer on the paint.
same thing i did!

safer too.
 

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Hello guys,

is this the reason why I can't really pop the hatch from the driver's seat? When I pop it open, it opens in the back but still locked into the latch. Would this solve my problem? thanks!
 

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checked my work after a night of sleep and I have to say that it really improves the seal of the hatch! Very tight fit now, come spring I guess I'll see if it stops the rattles!
 

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ok sorry to revive an old threaed but WTF IS THE DEAL WITH THESE THINGS...
I have been at this shit for 2 fukin days and i cannot get these screws out....

first off mine stripped with ease...no surprise there...i mean toyota had to loctite them in because we all know they are supporting thousands and thousands of pounds so they need to be that secure :madf:

So i have one of those kits that removes stripped screws and ive used it before and it does work...but since this is the supra im working on, nothing will ever work the way it is supposed to...
so now im stuck...an i gotta start asking questions...

first off...how the fuck did you people do this without tearing up the rubber that seals the hatch?? mine is starting to have holes in it from all the wear of the drill and screw driver and everything

second..how the fuck did you get a good enough angle to get at the screws..mine are angled and i can barely get the screw driver straight on...

so now im about to get a dremel and slice that bitch and try to remove it that way, but im pretty sure before i even try it that something wotn go right and THAT wont work either...

my last resort is to torch those fuckers out but i really dont wanna start melting a $5000+ paint job..

then if that doesnt work im prob just gonna put this fuckin shitbox out by the curb and let the garbage men handle it..

ok so any other ways for me to try and fail at getting these screws out will be appreciated
and btw i tried the vise grips...no fuckin way!!! again..i cant gte a good enough angle for the damn things to grip the screws...

thanks in advance
Ant
 

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I had mine out in 2 minutes with no damage. Just get a goose-neck lighter from the dollar store. They are used to light up BBQ's and have a long flexible neck.
Rip the rubber part off of the bumpers, take the lighter and heat up the screw head for a good 30-45 seconds...remove the heat and quickly unscrew it. Voila!
The screws come out so clean and intact you could resale them :)
 

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I know it's an old thread, but here's what I did about the rattling. I removed the top bumper stops and put about 4 layers of electric tape on each side. That seemed to do the trick. Even over fairly bumpy road I get no rattle.
 

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^^^ i already bought new opnes and cut the old hatch bumpers off..i just cant get the screws out...

Im gonna try and cut into it with a dremel or something and then heat it up with lighter or maybe a soldering iron..

I now can prob get a better angle on it since i know i can remove the rubber seal without having to reglue it down..i didnt want to destroy the seal in the process..

thanks
ill let you know what happeends after tommrow
 

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They are a bitch. One on each side came out not problem for me, the other two stripped and it was down hill from there.

The easiest thing I found was to simply drill the screw out, took about 5 mins on each screw. No damage to paint on any part. The trick is to use the correct sized bit, I'd have to look cause I can't remember which one. It'll first rip the head off, then continue for a short while to get the body out. If you use the right size the threading stays intact. Make sure to drill a small pilot hole in the centre before starting other wise you could be in for some trouble. My replacements went on with ease.
 

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^^^ i srtarted to try to drill them out but i was afraid of messing up the threads...i really dont wanna have to start re tapping them and all
 

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sounds fun
 

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