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Discussion Starter #1
So I've had this issue for quiet a while now but never really looked into it... I have to turn the key twice to start the car. First turn I would hear like a buzzing sound (no matter how long I hold it for it would just buzz) then I would turn the key back to ACC and try it again and the car would fire right up with no issues. I honestly don't remember exactly when the car started doing this... If I have to pick an exact time, I think it was around after the relocation of the battery to the trunk.

Does anyone have any clue where I should even start looking?? It's a JDM TT.

any help/suggestions are always appreciated!
 

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Break out the multi meter and get knee deep in basic testing. Check voltage at the key switch output, starter relay output, and starter when you turn the key to start. Also check that battery voltage when the starter actually engages. Should be above 12v. Do you have any accessories like a turbo timer or aftermarket security system with starter kill installed? Definitely check all power and ground termination on the relocated battery. I'm sure something along those lines will kick it. Good luck!
 

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I have the same issue as the OP on my JDM supra TT 6 speed. I bought it like that.

Been turning the key twice for 3 years now. Turns on right away on the second try. I do however have the clutch switch disabled so I don't have to press in the clutch to turn on the car. (bought the car with this already done.)

Never really read/searched about this issue. Will check whats stated above and report back when I get some time.
 

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Electrical issues are PITAs. Identical problems can manifest differently due to intermittently connectivity issues. A partially blown fuse, oxidized terminal, or loose connection at a junction box can all cause the same symptom, or one of those problems can manifest differently from one car to the next. That said, also check for low hanging fruit like broken battery terminals, poor crimps, corrosion, loose connections in junction boxes, etc. Google "voltage drop test"; it's helped me before.
 

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I have this exact same issue. After investigating, I figured there had previously been both a turbo timer and boost gauge fitted. I got under the dash by the ignition barrel and removed all the extra connections. Still have to turn the key twice though- anyone got a definitive answer on this?
 

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Where exactly this "buzzing" sound comes? Under dash? Enginebay, fusebox, starter?

I had similiar issues with old sc400, broblem was starter (inside, worn solenoid surfaces).
 

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The fuel pump and fuel pump ECU/relay are in the trunk. Start there, with a multimeter. Find out what is buzzing. Pull a wiring diagram for widget that is buzzing. Identify and verify the proper voltage behavior of the wires going into the widget when the key is turned. I suspect that the wire will read less than 12 volts on the first turn, then greater than 12 volts on subsequent turns.
 

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I have this exact same issue. After investigating, I figured there had previously been both a turbo timer and boost gauge fitted. I got under the dash by the ignition barrel and removed all the extra connections. Still have to turn the key twice though- anyone got a definitive answer on this?
Multimeter. Test. Follow all of the above. Sorry, my crystal ball is in the shop.
 

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Still haven't had any time to properly look at this yet, since the second turn hasn't let me down but I'm determined to solve it. Did anyone get anywhere? I'll update this accordingly in due time once I've been able to investigate...
 

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Managed to narrow this down to the ignition barrel by bypassing it to the starter motor; starts first time in this case but I always have to turn twice to start from the key. I will update again once I've inspected the ignition barrel.
 

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Managed to narrow this down to the ignition barrel by bypassing it to the starter motor; starts first time in this case but I always have to turn twice to start from the key. I will update again once I've inspected the ignition barrel.
Interesting. keep us posted. Im having some issues myself with starting. suspecting the ignition barrel or maybe switch.
 

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Just collating some posts I've found regarding dodgy ignition cranks for reference later (aside from actual ignition switch testing), I'll post my results in comparison to their issues:

1) Burned out alternator fuse (from a guy with a MKIII)
2) Bad ground under the fuse box
3) Stock alarm tripped, manual disarm: go to drivers door lock once and passenger door lock twice to reset
4) Starter fuse in kick panel diagram here
 

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Discussion Starter #17
lol to be honest man. i really haven't had the time either to sit down and investigate the issue... still doing the 2x turn for it to start.

If would be extremely helpful if you can let us know what the final fix!
 

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lol to be honest man. i really haven't had the time either to sit down and investigate the issue... still doing the 2x turn for it to start.

If would be extremely helpful if you can let us know what the final fix!
Planning on having a go at this tomorrow, weather depending so hopefully I can update you guys soon.
 

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Well I accidentally solved this today. There is a blue connector that goes to the top of the ignition about half way down the barrel, it looks like it powers the green light around the barrel. Removed the connector as it looked aftermarket (male part) and it starts off one turn now! Wonder if someone wired the aftermarket connector in the wrong way round... I’ll try to swap the wires tomorrow!

Let me know if this works for you guys!
 

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Well I accidentally solved this today. There is a blue connector that goes to the top of the ignition about half way down the barrel, it looks like it powers the green light around the barrel. Removed the connector as it looked aftermarket (male part) and it starts off one turn now! Wonder if someone wired the aftermarket connector in the wrong way round... I’ll try to swap the wires tomorrow!

Let me know if this works for you guys!
Awesome man glad it worked out for you.
You have any pics of this connector ?
 
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