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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

i am building a GE vvti head on a 1200hp build and want to go with the following parts:

Kelford t202-D cams
Supertech valvetrain (91lbs)

I have the bottom end fully built with billet mains and manley tri beam rods and cp pistons.

Question is does the supertech valvetrain mate well with the cams , do i need to cut the head for cam clearance and what safe redline can i expect from this ? (8500?).

Would the higher 115+lb spring rate be beneficial?

Would +1 valves be ideal or can i stay standard?

What life expectation is on the OEM valve guides? I know honda valve guides have common leaks as a higher revving platform as i have had to fix a few.

Shall i do the guides also since im already in the head and what material for longevity that can handle the power levels?

Anything special i need to know about the bucket over shim things other than the clearances ?


Thank you for your knowledge

PFA
:cool:
 

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That's a pretty serious build! 馃嵑

Hey all,

i am building a GE vvti head on a 1200hp build and want to go with the following parts:

Kelford t202-D cams
Supertech valvetrain (91lbs)

I have the bottom end fully built with billet mains and manley tri beam rods and cp pistons.

Question is does the supertech valvetrain mate well with the cams , do i need to cut the head for cam clearance and what safe redline can i expect from this ? (8500?).

Would the higher 115+lb spring rate be beneficial?

Would +1 valves be ideal or can i stay standard?

What life expectation is on the OEM valve guides? I know honda valve guides have common leaks as a higher revving platform as i have had to fix a few.

Shall i do the guides also since im already in the head and what material for longevity that can handle the power levels?
I believe the higher lift versions of the Kelford cams do require clearancing the head. It's an easy process for any machine shop that has any business with a Japanese engine.
Rev limit will be dictated by your oiling system at this point. The wet sump stuff is basically on borrowed time above 8500rpm even with a quality upgraded oil pump and good oil cooling. Plenty of guys bang 9k occasionally with a build like yours, but if you really want to send it to 9k regularly or higher, it's time for an expensive dry sump conversion.

I'd honestly call GSC/read up on the specs and see if their Beehive springs would play nice with the 202-D's instead of doing the Supertech 115+lb springs. The 115lb spring sets work great for high RPM but they are pretty harsh on seat pressure and kinda beat the hell out of the valve seats.
That much seat pressure may be necessary if you're running crazy boost levels (40psi+) but if not, no sense beating the hell out of the valve seats IMO and the GSC beehive springs are fantastic for basically any street build under 1200whp if not more.

+1mm valves are best paired with matching headwork to suit them. You're going for a HP level where +1mm valves are a decent upgrade but they're not necessary. If it's an easy enough 'while you're in there' thing with other headwork, might as well if your engine builder/tuner recommend it. Depending on your fuel and turbo combination it may not be needed, stock size valves and stock cyl head ports have done 1400+whp, just takes boost :)

OEM valve stem seals and valve guides are usually pretty worn out by now, replacing them is a great idea, but once replaced with bronze or a similar upgraded valve guide they're not a common failure point.

Other things would be to consider 1ZZ-FE shimless buckets instead of shim-under-buckets to reduce valvetrain weight and complexity. If you're having the valves done, the machine shop should be able to 'tip the valves' (cut down valve stem height) to adjust valve lash to match virtually any shimless buckets you supply. The biggest concern here is the 1ZZ-FE buckets aren't available in as wide of a range of thickness as usual shim setups so the valvetrain all has to fall in a pretty narrow range to set valve lash to work best. Considering your cam choice I'd go shimless buckets no matter what else you decide to do in the head.

Otherwise, be mindful that L19 and CA625 head stud kits for the 2JZ-GTE have been on backorder for quite some time, and at 1200+whp with billet mains you should go with one of those solutions to prevent head lift at those HP levels, especially on E85.

Hope this helps! Post more pics of your progress as your build gets further along! 馃嵑
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Excellent info, this is what i have been looking for i appreciate it and as the build progresses i wi be updating! I was really skeptical about the bronze guides as i have read that they wear faster , but mostly fail earlier according to honda forums. I will be going bronze route on this build. Thank you! Glad i ran into someone with your experience on the forums 馃槑

Ps saving for a dry sump lol
 
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