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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys,

Recently got my block resurfaced. Mine had some pitting and I'm doing a refresh on the 2JZ for my MK3. The resurface looks great, but I didn't realize they they didn't clean it at all! So I have a nightmares worth of metal shavings everywhere. :(

Looking for the best way to get them all out and open to suggestions. Compressed air for sure, but anything else? I'm assuming any kind of water blasted up in here would be a horrible idea.
251101
 

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Good machine shop there.
I would tear it totally down and degrease it or parts washer everything.
Complete teardown.
One key thing I would make 100% sure is done:
Clean all metal shavings and debris from the oil feed and return holes.
Same thing for the pistons and rings.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Good machine shop there.
I would tear it totally down and degrease it or parts washer everything.
Complete teardown.
One key thing I would make 100% sure is done:
Clean all metal shavings and debris from the oil feed and return holes.
Same thing for the pistons and rings.
That's what I was afraid of, but it makes the most sense to do in this situation. Welp, time to order some piston rings while I'm in there I guess. fml
 

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Seriously? What kind of machine shop does a process on a machine ( here, an engine) that packs abrasives and shavings into the machine and then hands it back to the owner? You might want to post the name just so nobody else darkens their doorway as a favor to the community.
 

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Just 1 of those flakes makes it into the oil system, good chance it WILL wipe out a rod or crank bearing.
And you are right, water has no place in cleaning internal engine parts.
Solvent & compressed air for every part, then spray down with something like WD40 to prevent flash rust.
Sorry, but you now have to do a complete tear down...

And please post this horrible shop's name & location.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The name of the place is Scroggins Automotive, located in Houston. They were friendly and quick, but you'd think it would be common practice to clean the thing afterwards right? It didn't even occur to me that I would find these shavings in the crankcase. It wasn't until I got it home on the engine stand that I realized what had happened.

I've never changed piston rings. Been looking at tutorials. Any tips?
 

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wait. so you had the head resurfaced. how did the aluminum end up in the bottom of the block?
it is common to clean the head after machining but i always blow it out myself just to be safe. cleanliness key.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
wait. so you had the head resurfaced. how did the aluminum end up in the bottom of the block?
it is common to clean the head after machining but i always blow it out myself just to be safe. cleanliness key.
My fault I didn't specify. I had the head and block both resurfaced. I'm left with metal shavings all in my crankcase.
 

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did they offer a hot tank service you possibly declined ? this seems crazy!

was the head bare, or was it machined with the valves in but no cams ?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
did they offer a hot tank service you possibly declined ? this seems crazy!

was the head bare, or was it machined with the valves in but no cams ?
They didn't say anything about hot tanking. The head is fine and no metal shavings, just the block that is in bad shape.
 

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I take everything last thing off block or head before sending to a machine shop, unless parts need to be machined together. When i don't it somehow always ends up being more work for worse results. by the time you get it all clean you could probably redo the bottom end and feel confident in you rings and bearings for years to come.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I take everything last thing off block or head before sending to a machine shop, unless parts need to be machined together. When i don't it somehow always ends up being more work for worse results. by the time you get it all clean you could probably redo the bottom end and feel confident in you rings and bearings for years to come.
That would have been a good idea. Should I get new bearings to go with my new rings or nah?
 

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OP, this is a fantastic time for "while you're in there anyway" jobs, within reason. That said, the bearings on my 1j looked like new when the engine was torn down for a build at somewhere around 80k, so new bearings may not be necessary. Take your time and make your decisions from there.
 

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I take everything last thing off block or head before sending to a machine shop, unless parts need to be machined together. When i don't it somehow always ends up being more work for worse results. by the time you get it all clean you could probably redo the bottom end and feel confident in you rings and bearings for years to come.
This.
 

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That would have been a good idea. Should I get new bearings to go with my new rings or nah?
well the opinions seem to fall "might be ok" vs "might as well change bearings". To me, a casual with limited time, I would rather spend the small extra cost to buy bearings and have the crank machined for roundness, polished and balanced, and maybe get new arp fasteners. I dont really see a downside.

If you ever want to go for big power in the future, and you are a well healed hobbyist, then this is the time to spend the bank on forged internals as well, but you would need to have a long term build plan in mind to make the best choices on bore, stroke, and compression. This is where clear goals for your build count.
 

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Seriously? What kind of machine shop does a process on a machine ( here, an engine) that packs abrasives and shavings into the machine and then hands it back to the owner? You might want to post the name just so nobody else darkens their doorway as a favor to the community.
Agreed! WTF man! That is terrible!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
In hindsight, I should have removed everything from the block before taking it there. Lesson learned. Although, this mishap is pushing me to do a full restore on my engine, which isn't a bad thing.

I appreciate all the replies. I'm definitely changing the piston rings, no question. Looking into ring-gap specs now. Need to buy a feeler gauge and some other things to do it the correct way. Any tips are welcome. My power goals lie somewhere between 500-600 hp which the stock internals should handle just fine.

My main concern while I wait is flash rust on the block surface. I coated with WD-40 for the time being (thank you @sixpack). If small amount of rust forms will I be in deep shit or can I use something non-abrasive to get it off?
 
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