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Discussion Starter #1
Is there anyone in the Dallas/DFW area that has experience installing headgakets on the 2JZ-GE engines? I want to install a supra TT headgasket in my 1995 Lexus SC300, but since I've never done it before I'm a little gun shy. I can pay $200. Please let me know if you or anyone else can help me.
 

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dejacky said:
Is there anyone in the Dallas/DFW area that has experience installing headgakets on the 2JZ-GE engines? I want to install a supra TT headgasket in my 1995 Lexus SC300, but since I've never done it before I'm a little gun shy. I can pay $200. Please let me know if you or anyone else can help me.
The hard part is pullng off the intake and exhaust manifolds and disconnecting everything else off the head. Putting the hg on is easy; just make sure the head and block are clean prior to installing the hg. Additionally, it's extremely important that you follow the torque pattern and procedures when using OEM head studs.

I'd suggest ARP studs on a forced induction application, but you have to ensure the proper lubricant (i.e. molly lub) and torque sequence is used. Plus, the torque must be increased incrementally when tighten the head stud nuts. Trust me, I've learned my lesson on that one.

FWIW, it's probably an 8-hour job given a completely assembled stock motor. If someone takes on the work for $200, then I'd be concerned they really know what they're doing. You're probably better off doing it yourself.

Sorry... I know that isn't much help, but it's my advice.

-scott
 

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Discussion Starter #3
motorheaddown said:
The hard part is pullng off the intake and exhaust manifolds and disconnecting everything else off the head. Putting the hg on is easy; just make sure the head and block are clean prior to installing the hg. Additionally, it's extremely important that you follow the torque pattern and procedures when using OEM head studs.

I'd suggest ARP studs on a forced induction application, but you have to ensure the proper lubricant (i.e. molly lub) and torque sequence is used. Plus, the torque must be increased incrementally when tighten the head stud nuts. Trust me, I've learned my lesson on that one.

FWIW, it's probably an 8-hour job given a completely assembled stock motor. If someone takes on the work for $200, then I'd be concerned they really know what they're doing. You're probably better off doing it yourself.

Sorry... I know that isn't much help, but it's my advice.

-scott
ARPs are in the mail btw :). This is excellent help, thank you Scott :bigthumb:. I have the service manual and will follow the Toyota procedures, but what chemical did you use to clean the mating surface on the engine block, head, and pistons? Also, what kind of scraper should I get? I wanna make sure I do everything correctly.
 

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Where are you located? I can try to check in and help ya out. Done a few BHG's on some 7Ms.

I'd have to see, but I know that the 2JZ-GTE uses a metal headgasket. Dunno about the non-turbo, tho there's not really that much to clean. You'll need alot of rags/towels to stuff into the cylinders, etc... that way when you scrape whatever junk off, it doesn't fall into the cylinders or coolant/oil passages.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
ARPs arrived today :69: .

I'll be working on the car about ~ 10 miles north of Down Town Dallas :eek4dance . My experience is removing the exhaust & intake manifold, injectors, supra TT fuel pump, and basically replaced the valve cover gaskets. So, I've never removed the timing belt. Any help from you more experienced folks would be VERY much appreciated :). Heck, if someone let me watch another person do a headgasket install so I could learn, I'd do 2 headgasket installs of their choice for FREE :).

Stuff I think I need:

"molly lube"
Coolant (What kind?)
Timing Gun (which do you all recommend for best bang/buck?)
H20 Pump (it's about time to replace the original anyways)


Anything I'm forgetting?
 

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dejacky said:
"molly lube"
Coolant (What kind?)
Timing Gun (which do you all recommend for best bang/buck?)
H20 Pump (it's about time to replace the original anyways)


Anything I'm forgetting?
Molly lube should come with the ARPs.
Any coolant will suffice.
Timing light depends on what you're trying to accomplish. My timing light won't fire fast enough on wasted-spark ignitions for anything above crank exit speed. As long as you can set base timing, any light will do.

Removing the EGR system is a PITA. You'll need a very long extension to get to the two bolts on the driver's side rear of the block or head (I forget which). Once the bolts are cracked loose, unscrew and then use a long telescoping magnetic to retrieve the bolts.

The EGR bolt is quite large and requires a very large wrench. Make sure you have a large enough wrench before you start tearing into the motor.

In general, be very careful of the wiring under the intake plenum. It's tough to see under there, and you'll have to disconnect a number of connectors before the head is free of all the wiring.

Good luck!
-scott
 

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You may not need to do all that dinky stuff, while the head is on the engine. I'm in The Colony... where are you, exactly?

Basically, find a TRSM that you can borrow or download. Here's what I would suggest, kinda high-level.... You'll remove the head with everything still intact/attached, replace headgasket, and put it all back together.... unless the head's going to a machine shop. If that's the case... you can remove all that other junk while the head is on a bench and everything's convenient to get to.


1. Detach the engine harness from the ECU and pull thru the firewall (leave everything else connected... TPS, ISC, injectors, etc, etc).

2. Remove the cam covers (and anything that keeps you from doing so... throttle body, etc).

3. Remove the front timing covers (including the main crank, alternator, etc)

4. Cut the timing belt off (you need to replace it anyways)

5. Loosen the headbolts (according to the sequence in the TRSM)

6. Disconnect anything attached to the engine harness, below the head... (knock sensors, power steering(?), VSVs, etc).

7. Disconnect anything that goes between the head and block (exhaust manifold - pull away from head, brackets or anything supporting the plenum etc.).

Basically, you will remove the head with the intake, cams and everything on it. I have done this several times with the 7M.... saves ALOT of time. You will need someone to help you lift it all past the fenders/bumper tho.

Are you having the head checked, valve job, replacing valve stem seals? If the head checks straight (using the right tool to measure, according to the TRSM), then all you may have to do is clean the surfaces and replace the headgasket, reconnect/install everything in the reverse order.

If the head needs to got to the machine shop, then you have to remove everything from it (cams, EGR, plenum, etc).

Replace it all when you get the head back and you're good to go. Take pics all along the way. I promise that no matter how many times I've done this, getting it put together weeks after is overwhelming (figuring out how everything went).


As far as timing.... line all the marks up, replace the belt and ensure that the tensioner is all set (according to the TRSM). You do not need to do anything else. The timing will be set (unless you had to pull the distributor off, because the head went to the machine shop). If you did not loosen/remove the distributor or otherwise misalign with the cams, you're okay.

Man, I wish I had the time to help ya out. If you were along my way home, I could at least stop and check in on ya and see what I could do.

Sorry for the long reply.....
 

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also consider sending your head out and hack the deck checked...to make sure its not warped...also grind the block down a little with a yellow plastic rolodisc... or the brown rolodisc very lightly. Whenever I do a headgasket, i usually send out my head and have the whole thing gone over but that will atleast double your costs. But like i said atleast get the deck checked on it.
 

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Satan said:
You may not need to do all that dinky stuff, while the head is on the engine. I'm in The Colony... where are you, exactly?

Basically, find a TRSM that you can borrow or download. Here's what I would suggest, kinda high-level.... You'll remove the head with everything still intact/attached, replace headgasket, and put it all back together.... unless the head's going to a machine shop. If that's the case... you can remove all that other junk while the head is on a bench and everything's convenient to get to.


1. Detach the engine harness from the ECU and pull thru the firewall (leave everything else connected... TPS, ISC, injectors, etc, etc).

2. Remove the cam covers (and anything that keeps you from doing so... throttle body, etc).

3. Remove the front timing covers (including the main crank, alternator, etc)

4. Cut the timing belt off (you need to replace it anyways)

5. Loosen the headbolts (according to the sequence in the TRSM)

6. Disconnect anything attached to the engine harness, below the head... (knock sensors, power steering(?), VSVs, etc).

7. Disconnect anything that goes between the head and block (exhaust manifold - pull away from head, brackets or anything supporting the plenum etc.).

Basically, you will remove the head with the intake, cams and everything on it. I have done this several times with the 7M.... saves ALOT of time. You will need someone to help you lift it all past the fenders/bumper tho.

Are you having the head checked, valve job, replacing valve stem seals? If the head checks straight (using the right tool to measure, according to the TRSM), then all you may have to do is clean the surfaces and replace the headgasket, reconnect/install everything in the reverse order.

If the head needs to got to the machine shop, then you have to remove everything from it (cams, EGR, plenum, etc).

Replace it all when you get the head back and you're good to go. Take pics all along the way. I promise that no matter how many times I've done this, getting it put together weeks after is overwhelming (figuring out how everything went).


As far as timing.... line all the marks up, replace the belt and ensure that the tensioner is all set (according to the TRSM). You do not need to do anything else. The timing will be set (unless you had to pull the distributor off, because the head went to the machine shop). If you did not loosen/remove the distributor or otherwise misalign with the cams, you're okay.

Man, I wish I had the time to help ya out. If you were along my way home, I could at least stop and check in on ya and see what I could do.

Sorry for the long reply.....
Sorry!??? Thats some really good info Elvis!
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Thanks for the very good info guys. The garage I'll be using is in the Inwood Road / Royal Lane intersection area. I'm comfortable removing & installing the intake, TB, distributor, exhaust manifold, draining/refilling radiator, valve covers and cam caps. Any takers for $250 to do the remaining headgasket install? :x:

I removed the EGR System and installed 2 blockoff plates + resistor, the timing belt is new, as well as the tensioner pulley assembly during initial na-t install. Things that need to get changed during headgasket install:

Water Pump
Radiator Fan Clutch
Head's Valve Stem Seals (my car has ~95,000 & these apparently go @ 60k)
Distributor O'Ring
Spark Plugs (Denso Iridium plugs in NGK 3330 heat range since boost = 15-17psi)

Where is the best price for a new radiator fan clutch, water pump, and valve stem seals locally in Dallas?


Secondary Priorities:

Suspension upgrade: If I want to retain stock ride height, like comfort yet want better handling/turning and high speed stability, and drive 99.9% on the street, what do you guys recommend? (shocks/oem spring/sway bar combo? or coilovers?)

Exhaust: Currently, a 3in crush bent downpipe and 3in mandrel midpipe connect to the SC300 stock y-collector (~2.4in-->Dual ~2in?...2 resonators and stock mufflers). I'm considering replacing the stock cat-back exhaust with a 3in single pipe y-piping into dual 2.5in pipes and no resonators to improve flow. How restrictive is the stock SC300 catback exhaust and what mufflers do you guys recommend for keeping noise as low as possible with no droning? Where is the best price for Stainless Steel exhaust piping in Dallas/DFW? Who do you recommend for doing this exhaust work for cheap in the Dallas/DFW areas?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Startingi headgasket Install today. Is it bad not to replace valve stem seals or any other seals when changing the headgasket? When I start the car I get NO white or grey smoke of any kind..If I rev it quite high I can get a little darker colored exhaust smoke, but you have to look for it to see it...i'm hoping it's just because I gutted the catolytic converters. What do you guys think?
 

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If you're sending the head to the machine shop, get 'em replaced and valve job. If you're not sending to the machine shop, you'll be fine. You can always replace 'em later with the engine in the car, if you really have to. It's somewhat of a PITA, but lots have done it in aboutan afternoon.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
This is a new distributor rotor after only ~9,000 miles. Should I replace it?:


 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks Satan. Quick ?, how did you guys remove this bolt?



I think I almost tore a ligament in my shoulder trying to unscrew it with a 1/4 socket wrench :rant2:
 

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Actually... I wouldn't mess with that bolt. Instead, find the ones that attach the plenum to the head, and loosen/remove those and pull the plenum away from the head. You can then reach down and unclip any connections that you can reach from there...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
PB Blaster to the rescue :). A previous shop (that I took the car out of because of worksmanship dispute) did the timing belt..so, I wonder if my timing was a little off before because after aligning the crank to 0 timing and the cam wheels to the tdc marks, it doesn't match the "Distributor" service manual description of TDC. What do you all think?




According to this, I'm supposed to see that top lobe of the camshaft through the oil filler hole, but I don't see it:



The cam wheels are aligned.



Are the cam lobes supposed to face each other like this?:



Or was the timing belt installed incorrectly before? :eek4dance Or is this perfectly normal?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Finally got the head off..and I found out I did it correctly when I thought I didn't...but, the previous damage discovered or caused by the previous shop was severe. The machine shop recommends that I just get a new head..here's why:

This is what a normal Exhaust cam groove looks like:



Here is the damaged intake cam groove on the head:





Just like a chain reaction, it also scars the intake camshaft:



and let's not forget the cam cap!:



Anyone got a low mileage, great condition complete 2jz-ge head (with cam caps & camshafts) for a 1995 Lexus SC300?
 
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