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Supra Fender Covers PM me
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I am currently getting ready to install my new 264's and I have some questions before the install.
First of all my plans (like any other supra owner) is to build the car up single, fuel, tranny etc and use it for hopefully sub 10 second runs (yeah maybe one day). I will then use it as 90% drag and 10% highway.
Since i am installing my cams..i plan on getting some springs and retainers (Crower). They told me i did not need keepers or anything else for the install. Anybody with experience with crower springs and retainers please jump in.
Now the next thing is, do i have to remove the head to change these out or can i do it with it on???
The next thing is, I currently have JUN cam gears, I really dont see a need for them once the cams are in......has anyone made adjustments after cam install???
Any other things I should do while i am installing the cams?? Outside of checking for valve clearances??
 

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BPU is so 1997
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Most people who have cams set their gears back to zero,or throw back on the stockers, unless they like the pretty cam gear colors.

As for the other shit you asked, I have no clue. :)
 

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Supra Fender Covers PM me
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I havent heard of anyone setting the cam gears once 264's are install either....looks like i got some Jun gears for sale :)
 

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anyone ever weigh aftermarket cam gears compared to stock? even though dont adjust them that ive ever heard with aftermarket cams... might be a weight savings there.. and since its rotating mass on the engine.. might make it rev a tad faster.. just something ive always wondered, but since my car is still stock ive not had the oppurtunity to check it out on my own.
 

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You don't have to remove the cylinder head to replace the spring's and retainer's.Also replace the valve stem seal's while your at it.The MKIV site has a tech article on replacing stem seal's all you have to do is reinstall with the new spring and retainer's:)
 

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Supra Fender Covers PM me
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Discussion Starter #6
Oh yeah forgot to mention i will be changing the seals too.
Anything else while i got her open??
 

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Horacio Ramos said:
You don't have to remove the cylinder head to replace the spring's and retainer's.Also replace the valve stem seal's while your at it.The MKIV site has a tech article on replacing stem seal's all you have to do is reinstall with the new spring and retainer's:)
Not true. Some of the springs and retainers must be installed with the head off the car. I have the Snap-on tool and it works for the stock retainers and keepers. But for the PHR double springs and Ti retainers it doesn't. The stock retainer is much thinner, than the PHR. I believe the Crower retainer resembles the stock one so you might be ok there. Give yourself some time for checking the valve clearance and ordering new shims, this is a must but a pain in the ass!

I have the 264's and Titan cam gears. On the dyno we could only get another 2 or 3 hp out of manipulating the cam gears. In my opinion just use the stock ones, then there is no worry's about the gears slipping!
 
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I take it by the above comment that the 2J has solid lifters. Damn, I really hate measuring them 1 at a time too..
 

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dblegle said:
I believe the Crower retainer resembles the stock one so you might be ok there.
Crower springs and retainers can be done with the head on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I will plan on following the valve seal replacement write up and just replace with crower springs and retainers. Is it worth buying the tools for, or should i try to borrow them
 

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Never enough
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Where did you buy the spring/retainer set and what did it run you? Any reason one should go with PHR/Ferrera double spring set as opposed to the crowers?
 

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bad94sup said:
Where did you buy the spring/retainer set and what did it run you? Any reason one should go with PHR/Ferrera double spring set as opposed to the crowers?
I just ordered the Crowers from Horsepowerfreak and picked up valve seals at Toyota. $370 for the springes and retainers shipped. $100 for 24 valve seals, 12 intake 12 exhaust.
 
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Personally, I think you should pull the head off. Just think about how much time you will have to spend bent all the way over the car, tweaking little things. Pulling springs are a huge PITA, especially if it's your first time, and haven't got the "feel" for it. Then you got to worry about dropping a seal, keeper, retainer, down into the engine, then you will be pulling off the oil pan. I can definetly see myself losing a grip on one little piece and BYE BYE down a oil drain it goes. Next you have to check the valve clearances, AND install shims, which requires the removal and reinstallation of the retainers perhaps several times. All the while, you are bent at a 90 degree angle. Hours of this. No thanks.

I'd rather just unbolt the head, and do the whole procedure off the car. Gives me the chance to do some porting, and install ARP head studs.
 

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dblegle said:
Not true. Some of the springs and retainers must be installed with the head off the car. I have the Snap-on tool and it works for the stock retainers and keepers. But for the PHR double springs and Ti retainers it doesn't. The stock retainer is much thinner, than the PHR. I believe the Crower retainer resembles the stock one so you might be ok there. Give yourself some time for checking the valve clearance and ordering new shims, this is a must but a pain in the ass!

I have the 264's and Titan cam gears. On the dyno we could only get another 2 or 3 hp out of manipulating the cam gears. In my opinion just use the stock ones, then there is no worry's about the gears slipping!
Thats not true

I have change to both crower and to PHR dual spring with the head on
 
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