Supra Forums banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,231 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Okay, I know all the reasons why it happens...

However, I am pissed off that it happened to me again :furious: , even though I let it idle for 90 seconds before shutting the car off.... 20 minutes later, finally starts.

No, I haven't hooked up a turbo-timer and now, I don't plan to. Here's the real question...

I noticed that the tach doesn't move at all when I'm trying to crank it every few minutes, for the 1st 10-15 minutes. Once I see the tach needle move, as if it's receiving an RPM signal, is when it tries to start.

What is it that finally decides to give it that signal and allow it to start ('cause that's what I'm gonna freakin' by-pass)?

I don't want the standard SOGI/SONIC write-up of why it happens, 'cause at this point, I really don't give a sheeeyat. Bottom line is that this USED to be common in the early EFI systems (aka MKIIIs), but is not as common since the early 90's on up.

So... newer cars don't have turbo-timers and they don't have this issue (as far as I'm aware). What was redesigned and why doesn't this affect the MKIVs (2JZs)?

I'm at the point of dropping a 2J back in it (and the fiance says I can, if I want to :69: ).

Cliff's:
I'm P.O.ed at my 7M and if it don't wanna play, it's gonna go away.

Thanx guys (sorry for the rant).
 

·
Not ur jizz, not ur bizz
Joined
·
6,571 Posts
change ur SN to Jesus, see if there is new results in the cars attitude... :lol:
 

·
Supra Fan
Joined
·
4,115 Posts
No tach signal? - Thats got to be cps wires. In many cases the actual connector between the cps and engine harness is bad. You can try hard wiring the cps to the harness, or buy a "like new" cps that I have off my car. :)

Heat soak? - Definately your fuel pressure vsv. Replace it!

- Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,231 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Done all the heat soak things... changed VSVs, FP resistor/relay, etc... Just haven't changed name to Jesus (yet)....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,231 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Cam Position Sensor...

The connector is kinda fuggly (brittle/broken), but jiggling it has not worked to make it start any sooner. I had that same issue with my 87T and ended up hardwiring the CPS to the harness.

Figure I just need to remember to let it idle longer before shutting down (tho that's not always convenient). If it keeps pissing me off, I'll plan a 2JZ swap for the Fall sometime.
 

·
Be original, not a copy
Joined
·
861 Posts
Do you have a spare ignitor? Next time it will not start swap in the other ignitor and see if that fixes the problem. A dead/dying ignition system (large plug gap, bad plug wires) can significantly increase the resistance in the system. This taxes the ignitor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,231 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Yeah... that was one of the 1st things. Installed my spare "known-good" ignitor. Gave the old one away tho.

Replaced:
Engine harness (brand NEW)
Fuel pressure VSV (twice)
Fuel pump relay/resistor
Ignitor
Plugs
O2 sensor
TPS

Cleaned ISC/dashpot


Dunno what else, other than adding a turbo timer (which I don't want to to yet). The alarm I have has one, but it's a standard 2-minute deal (non-programable), so I haven't installed it. Looking for a similar 2-way pager alarm deal that would have the turbo timer, with more than just a 2 minute option.
 
T

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
I'd be happy to have a heat soak issue, at this point....cause that would mean my car was at least running!!! :furious:
NJ, what you want for that "like new" CPS?
And Satan, if your 7m needs a home, you can relocate it to Tyler.....least then my car would start when it was cold, at least.....
 

·
BMM
Joined
·
2,329 Posts
Johnny Dangerously said:
change ur SN to Jesus, see if there is new results in the cars attitude... :lol:

:rofl: :lol:
 

·
Be original, not a copy
Joined
·
861 Posts
It would be weird but there is a possibility it could be the solenoid resistor. When the car finally starts are there indications of running super rich for a bit?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,231 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Nope... fires right up and idles at about 700 RPM (I've got some indiglo gauges and the tach one seems off a bit). But it idles at that same level consistently, with an occasional sputter/misfire every few minutes.

Today, temps are low and it's rainy. The idle seemed to climb and drop inconsistently and worry me that the car would just shut off at any time, while I was on my way to work. This just stresses me the hell out. If my Sup leaves me stranded on the side of the road, I will be so pissed that the "part-out" may even start right then!


I have a Ron Ram FFIM that I was going to istall, and check all of the electronics when I do that. Just dunno when/if I'll install it.
 

·
Be original, not a copy
Joined
·
861 Posts
It is starting to sound more and more like an injector system (injectors/solenoid resistor) or fuel pump system (fuel pump relay, fuel pump, fuel pump resistor) problem. If it takes that long to start up after heat soak there should be a ton of unburnt fuel in the motor. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?
 

·
Pronounced Tek-DAY-us
Joined
·
1,596 Posts
My car is running fine but when it's warm and I shut it off and try to start it again immediately (no time for heat soak), it' won't start. It seems to be getting fuel and spark as is stumbles a bit as if it's trying to start. During this it smells rich and occasionally backfires out the tailpipe and a couple of times I could hear it backfire out the intake and it seems to turn the motor backwards and grind the starter. Any suggestions? Thanks. (My problem is a bit different, I think I'll post a new thread)

DeanMarcum said:
It would be weird but there is a possibility it could be the solenoid resistor. When the car finally starts are there indications of running super rich for a bit?
 

·
Be original, not a copy
Joined
·
861 Posts
tekdeus said:
My car is running fine but when it's warm and I shut it off and try to start it again immediately (no time for heat soak), it' won't start. It seems to be getting fuel and spark as is stumbles a bit as if it's trying to start. During this it smells rich and occasionally backfires out the tailpipe and a couple of times I could hear it backfire out the intake and it seems to turn the motor backwards and grind the starter. Any suggestions? Thanks. (My problem is a bit different, I think I'll post a new thread)
What you are describing is indicative of improper ignition timing. Sounds like your iginition timing is retarded a bit. Check to make sure at idle (~750 rpm) with the motor hot, a/c off and the diagnostic terminal jumpered to ground that your ignition timing is 10*~12* BTDC (stock is 10* BTDC).
 

·
Pronounced Tek-DAY-us
Joined
·
1,596 Posts
Possible solution update: It did this to me again the other day and when I jiggled and unplugged/replugged the cps and o2 connections, it started up just fine. It seems to be an electricral connection problem at the cps plug when it heats up. I'm gonna cut off the plugs, hard-wire with solder, then wrap in heat shrink tubing. Hopefully this will be the last time I get stranded with the hot start issue!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,231 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Got yor PM... THANX!

Tho I've tried that w/mine already (just not hardwired yet).

Here's something that seemed to work the other day (when I was sweating my @$$ off in 97 degree heat)... It just "died" at a light in the middle of theday, in traffic.

I pulled the EFI fuse and put it back in and it fired right up. Although, it had been sitting on the side of theroad for about 25 minutes already and wouldn't start after jiggling all the connectors I could reach. May have been time for it to tart back up, or the EFI rest something in the ECU to wake things up.

Anyways, it pissed me off for the last time. It's now parked in the garage while I'm waiting for the replacement parts to arrive (I mean 2JZ front clip ;-)
 

·
Pronounced Tek-DAY-us
Joined
·
1,596 Posts
EFI Fuse? That's unusual. Maybe if it needs to be switched on and off to solve the issue you could wire the circuit up to a switch on the dash? Whatever works :) One thing that I noticed about my car: I was running a cowl carbon fibre hood with a 2" cowl so LOTS of air was flowing out of that area so the engine was a hell of a lot cooler. Temporarily I put a stock hood on there. With the stock heat sheild and the rubber seal at the back of the hood sealed again, it's stupid hot under the hood and my starting issue only came up after this change... Heat is definately the problem. If you haven't, do that hood mod listed on here which is to remove the rubber at the back of the engine bay and shim the hood up a little bit with washers to let the bay breathe and cool. Makes a huge difference.

Satan said:
Got yor PM... THANX!

Tho I've tried that w/mine already (just not hardwired yet).

Here's something that seemed to work the other day (when I was sweating my @$$ off in 97 degree heat)... It just "died" at a light in the middle of theday, in traffic.

I pulled the EFI fuse and put it back in and it fired right up. Although, it had been sitting on the side of theroad for about 25 minutes already and wouldn't start after jiggling all the connectors I could reach. May have been time for it to tart back up, or the EFI rest something in the ECU to wake things up.

Anyways, it pissed me off for the last time. It's now parked in the garage while I'm waiting for the replacement parts to arrive (I mean 2JZ front clip ;-)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,231 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
yeah.. I sat w/the hood up so that it would get alot of heat out, while I waited for it to be ready to start again. Driving the beater for now... (2000 Mitsu Galant).

That's what I was thinking tho... If I drove it again and it happens, I was gonna try the fuse thing again to make sure it wasn't just coincidence.

E
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top