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I heart 80's Toyota's
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Tater_Salad said:
I checked for any vacuum leaks and there were non. So I know its an electrical problem.
TATER SALAD

Before people start flipping out... we need some more info... are you talking about the blower fan? or does the car never "make heat"... give us somemore symptoms

and do a search for "heater VSV" this is a pretty common problem that can cause heating issues.

-Dustin
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Im sorry... I just started getting into fixing my own car myself. I dont have much more info. but i'll try to find some more info...
 

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try this

Ive had heat probelms also so I think I can help. The vacuum line is attached to a shutoff valve on the firewall. If there is no motion from the valve arm when your are trying to get heat, disconnect the arm and move the valve manually. There are 2 black rubber hoses that go through the fire wall. One goes from the shutoff valve through the firewall to the heater core and the return comes back into the engine bay about a foot away. If the hose from the valve to the firewall is hot than this is not the problem. I have a RHD so this next bit may be different. On my passenger side (Left side) under the dash...about 6 inches behind the radio there is a metal arm that connects to a plastic triangle. (trying to keep this simple) The plastic triangle is connected inside the air box to a flapper valve which either bypasses the heater core (to give you cold air) or directs the air through the core to give you hot. If you disconnect this arm you can move the flapper manually. If you got hot then there are a few things it could be. Probably 75% of the time its your heat controller. (this sends a signal to move the flapper to various positions to give you hot or cold. ) You may notice that the heater controllers lights are dim, flicker or not on at all when they start to go bad. You can usually pull on it up and down or push it as a temp fix and the lights should come on. It could also have to do with the temp detector behind the dash. (even in manual when you look at the diagram!) There is also a second little box down under the dash near the flapper which has a crude rheostat setup. This was my problem. It is moved mechanically when the flapper moves to indicate the position the flapper is in. For example when you put the controller in the middle (half hot and half cold) the flapper moves, pushing an indicator in the rheostat box until it is at the desired level. Could be a lot of things but here is how you should do it. If the hose to the shutoff valve is cold and the car is warmed up, take the thermostat out. If that fixes it then your lucky and it costs like $10. If the hose is hot to the valve but cold after, disconnect the shutoff valve arm and move it manually. If that doesnt work, disconnect the arm to the flapper under the dash and move that manually. Let us know if this leads you to find anything
 

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LEADED FUEL ONLY
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If you can tell us if it blows air regardless if its hot or cold we can help you solve this.

Does it blow cold air even when the climate control is set of 85? ____YES _____NO

Does it blow any air out of the vents? ____YES _____NO

Once we get this.. we can better help you.
 

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I Rock
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aljordan said:
If you can tell us if it blows air regardless if its hot or cold we can help you solve this.

Does it blow cold air even when the climate control is set of 85? ____YES _____NO

Does it blow any air out of the vents? ____YES _____NO

Once we get this.. we can better help you.
My heater doesn't work either. I answered yes to both of those questions. Can you help me. :)
Thanks,
Jimmy
 

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7mgtJimmy said:
My heater doesn't work either. I answered yes to both of those questions. Can you help me. :)
Thanks,
Jimmy

Certainaly Jimmy.

Your problem is water is not being circulated thru your heater core. The toyota system keeps this heat out of the heater core until its needed. This helps keep it cooler in the cabin (slightly) in the hot summer months.

Scroll up to see the picture that shows the diagram that illustrates moving some vacuum lines around. Now print that picture out, and go out to the car and find that area on the car. It's on the passenger side, located on the firewall. It's not too hard to find.

You need to do exactly what that picture wants you to do. Bypass the vacuum switching valve and give the actuator vacuum all the time. Doing this will open the valve and let hot coolant into the heater core.

Below is the link that will expalin everything in great detail. How to fix it, how to bypass it, everything.. with pictures too. They used a Mercedes unit to fix the thing, i used one from a Camry that was more of a direct fit.

http://www.supras.com/06/techcenter/display.php?QID=67
 

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Is this thing on?
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i have had this problem too..... but by bypassing the the solenoid your allowing coolant into the heater core at all times correct? this would also be bad because the heater core would go bad faster and i dont know anyone that likes a leaky heater core.
 

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SupraDreamer44 said:
.... but by bypassing the the solenoid your allowing coolant into the heater core at all times correct? ...
^yes it does.
until you get a replacement vsv; just unplug the vacuum line and plug the line when you don't need heat :)
 
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