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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, I got it the thermostat installed ($10, makes for the cheapest and easiest repair to date) (Also, I was going to post this as a reply in that thread, but I kept getting errors)

My temp gauge read a little below the middle after I let it idle for like 10 minutes, I didnt feel like driving it around so Im still not sure whats up.

When the temp got up and the car had been running my heat was blowing warmer, but still cold...

What position is the heater valve in when it is allowing water to pass through the heater core...mine is down. I turned on the AC and cranked the temp all the way down and it didnt change. But im thinking that might be because even if the climate control is set to 65 if its 38 outside, it still wants to warm it up...

By the way, I just installed the heater valve, so im not positive its hooked up right. I was told the vacuum could come from any source so thats what I did.

My car has no EGR or any of that other crap so Im missing a whole array of vacuum lines, so I couldnt hook it up to where it was supposed to be because I didnt seem to have that connection available.

If the heater valve is in the opposite position from what it should be, does anyone know a better place for the vacuum line to go...If the heater valve is where it should be, i guess just need to let it warm up some more.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The metal canister lever has to pull the arm up on the water valve, to allow coolant to flow.

Sounds like yours isn't working correctly. It only should shut off the valve if your temperature setting is on the lowest mark (18 C in Canada).

The VSV (vacuum switching valve) has to be hooked up correctly, so with voltage applied to it, it passes the vacuum from the engine to the metal canister.

The check valve in the vacuum line also has to be oriented correctly. It should allow flow toward the engine.


http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/install/graphics/vacuum_4h.gif
 

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Go All Electric
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werkkrew said:
Okay, I got it the thermostat installed ($10, makes for the cheapest and easiest repair to date) (Also, I was going to post this as a reply in that thread, but I kept getting errors)

My temp gauge read a little below the middle after I let it idle for like 10 minutes, I didnt feel like driving it around so Im still not sure whats up.

When the temp got up and the car had been running my heat was blowing warmer, but still cold...

What position is the heater valve in when it is allowing water to pass through the heater core...mine is down. I turned on the AC and cranked the temp all the way down and it didnt change. But im thinking that might be because even if the climate control is set to 65 if its 38 outside, it still wants to warm it up...

By the way, I just installed the heater valve, so im not positive its hooked up right. I was told the vacuum could come from any source so thats what I did.

My car has no EGR or any of that other crap so Im missing a whole array of vacuum lines, so I couldnt hook it up to where it was supposed to be because I didnt seem to have that connection available.

If the heater valve is in the opposite position from what it should be, does anyone know a better place for the vacuum line to go...If the heater valve is where it should be, i guess just need to let it warm up some more.
Your VSV is functioning improperly. As soon as the climate control is set to 66degrees and higher, the little arm should go all the way UP. I'll be back to give a write up on a fix for this ... H/O.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well now I just have to figure out if its the electrical part, or the vacuum part of the circuit there...

The part was pulled off as one piece...so I think the check valve is right, except theres two check valves...so im assuming that any vaccum source is fine then?

I hate diagnosing vacuum problems.
 

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Not ur jizz, not ur bizz
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Shawndude said:
The metal canister lever has to pull the arm up on the water valve, to allow coolant to flow.

Sounds like yours isn't working correctly. It only should shut off the valve if your temperature setting is on the lowest mark (18 C in Canada).

The VSV (vacuum switching valve) has to be hooked up correctly, so with voltage applied to it, it passes the vacuum from the engine to the metal canister.

The check valve in the vacuum line also has to be oriented correctly. It should allow flow toward the engine.


http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/install/graphics/vacuum_4h.gif

shawndude, lookin at that pic...i got a question.

where does 88691B connect to? mine has no hose on it and i got some extra hose left so i can make a quick fix.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Johnny, that connects to any vacuum source on the engine, there needs to be a check valve tho...I might have an extra one, if having two there is a problem.
 

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Go All Electric
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If it isn't electrical/power supply then it is your vaccum lines used.

I don't know about the electrical, ask Shawn.

For vaccum, I can give you SOME solutions ... but it may not work for you since you said that you may not have the proper lines. I'm guessing that it is vaccum though because you say
Im missing a whole array of vacuum lines, so I couldnt hook it up to where it was supposed to
.

BUT ...
My car has no EGR or any of that other crap so Im missing a whole array of vacuum lines
I don't have an EGR and I still have the necessary connections for VSV, but I don't know what you are referring to when you mention "other crap".
I didnt seem to have that connection available.
Hopefully you just missed the proper existing connection because it should be a quick fix if this is the only problem.

_____________________________________________

All the info I used for a fix that took less than 60 seconds :

See part A for analysis and B for short fix (my permanent fix). See section C if you want to spend some money to fix it.

VSV solutions.

Best regards. HTH. Let us know.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, what I mean by "Other Crap" and "Array of Lines" is...

The two pipes going across the 3000 pipe are gone, except the 2 large ones, PCV and the one in the front...

The charcoal can is gone, etc...

The car it came off, under the intake manifold, which was off, was a whole network of vacuum lines, which this plugged into. I cant really see under there but I know two things, there isnt AS MUCH stuff under there, and, I dont have a vacuum leak, so nothing is unhooked under there.

As I said, I was told by someone very supra savvy that any vacuum source would do.

As such, I have it T'd off of the port on the back of the upper intake manifold, my boost gauge being the other end of the T.

The car runs perfectly, so I dont think anything is hooked up wrong, or missing that needs to be there. I just wish there was a surefire way of knowing if it were an electrical issue, or a vacuum issue before I go further.

Shold the wires hooked up to the VSV show any voltage across them at different climate control settings? If so, I can start there.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
MMMMMMMMMMMMMMM Warm....


Well, I am VERY happy, and kinda sad...

I hooked vacuum directly up to the lever first, shot right up...so I know the vacuum is good...

Then I check the voltages, 13.38 from plug, 787 ohms inside VSV...So the vsv is bad...

Im not worried about it, I will hook it up the way it is now for the winter, and I will switch it back, and fix it once summer comes...unless mike92lx has another vsv lying around which he probably does, then i'll fix it sooner.

THANKS so much for all the help, that SOGI article was great help.
 

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Not ur jizz, not ur bizz
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6,571 Posts
Heater Valve Vacuum Hoses Location Length (cm) ID (mm)

Hard line on back wall to white side of the VTV on passenger side. 3.0cm 3.5 mm

Black side of the VTV on passenger side to Valve Magnet. 5.5cm 3.5 mm

Heater Water valve to Valve Magnet. 14.0cm 3.5 mm


.....ok so where does 87293E connect to? valve magnet? whast that?
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
As I just discovered, hook it anywhere, any vacuum source will do the trick, but you have to have the check valve in there so it doesnt see boost.
 

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werkkrew said:
MMMMMMMMMMMMMMM Warm....


Well, I am VERY happy,

Im not worried about it, I will hook it up the way it is now for the winter, and I will switch it back, and fix it once summer comes...unless mike92lx has another vsv lying around which he probably does, then i'll fix it sooner.

THANKS so much for all the help, that SOGI article was great help.
No prob, your welcome, SOGI rules!

Really easy isn't it?

Mike probably has some.

I think this fix maybe permanent for me.

Best regards.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thats what im thinking...

I mean, if it doesnt hinder the effectiveness of the AC, then I dont care....

Its open at all temps except the LOWEST setting anyway, even on the hottest day of the summer I dont usually have it that low.
 

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FYI - you can remove the whole valve assembly with virtually no ill effect. You will save some mass and clean up the engine bay.
 
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