I was driving around and suddenly the shifter started feeling rough and we heard a clicking noise from the engine bay. I pulled over and popped the hood. It was coming from the fan area and I was only about a mile away so I limped her home. She sounded ok once I got up to speed. The heat started going up a little, to about 60% on the gauge. A couple times the battery light flashed on while I was turning. Anyway at idle she was clicking like crazy and so I turned it off and checked for codes. Fast blink so none. I look a little deeper around the fan area where the noise was coming from and found this just resting at the bottom on the undercover of the engine bay. I think the clicking might have been the fan hitting this bolt. The tips of the fan are worn and scratched a little bit I don't think it was like that before. Also all the belts and pullies seem tight and not loose. Somebody please tell me, without flaming , what is this bolt and can I just put it back in and assume everything is ok?
well first go out and look at the crank pulley and see if there is still a bolt there then go to your local hardware store and by something called a "Torque Wrench" that will tell ya when you have hit 195 ft/lbs, aight good luck, apeace
what bolt am i looking for, dont i just need to put in this one that i have in the pictures? and my torque wrenches only goto 145 ft lbs, can I just max em out and a little more, maybe check on the bolt once in a while and it will be ok?
what bolt am i looking for, dont i just need to put in this one that i have in the pictures? and my torque wrenches only goto 145 ft lbs, can I just max em out and a little more, maybe check on the bolt once in a while and it will be ok?
I was just playing, but that bolt belongs on the crank pulley, and the wrench i used that went that high is made by Husky, try those, they can be found at home depot, agith good luck, peace
LMFAO..... I was reading the thread and was like hmm....no big deal, just a bolt prolly from the fan clutch or something.... then i saw the picture and JUST ABOUT CRAPPED MY PANTS! Dude i've lost a motor cuz of that very bolt aswell! If i were you i'd look to see if there's any wear on the crank it self caused by the wobbling pulley, if not i'd stick this son of a gun back on there TIGHT with out driving the car a second more! VERY IMPORTaNT BOLT!!!! DONT WAIT TO PUT IT BACK IT!
LMFAO..... I was reading the thread and was like hmm....no big deal, just a bolt prolly from the fan clutch or something.... then i saw the picture and JUST ABOUT CRAPPED MY PANTS!
sorry lightning, but i had to laugh too. BTW, why do you want to swap your engine?? is your current one bad? have you done a compression, or leak down test? what signs tell you it's time for replacement? just curious.
You REALLY need ot crank this thing down to 195 pounds. If you don't, it will come out again.
I'd be very suprised if your crank snout is fine after that falling out.
Go to sears, and get the 1/2 drive torque wrench. I'm thinking it goes up to 200. You'll have to get creative on how you're going to hold the engine still to torque this bolt.
I've used a very long pipe wrench with the jaws "biting" the inside edge, and the outside lip of the pulley. The handle of the wrecnh was against the floor. This has worked for me a few times.
ill bet $20usd the crank/pully is ROOTED if its stoped spinning the crank pully while the engine was running the woodruf key is GONE thus so would the keyway itself!
these bolts commonly stretch on just about all M series motors
PS- If there IS any damage to the keyway, you'll be able to tell by watching the crank pulley from above once you've correctly re-installed the bolt. You would see a side-to-side wobbling/vibration if there is damage.
"AIGHT- PEACE"
I didnt even use a torque wrench...just get a breaker bar and put a long ass metal tube over it and crank it till you cant crank no more Im pretty sure you cant OVERtighten it.
Blah, y'alls are all jealous and by the way, I RECOMMEND NOT USING LOCKTITE, seems like the idiot before may of used lock tite on mines and thats what caused the bolt to shear off, but yeah, just as i told you last night man, just torque it down good and F the GE, your going GTE anyways AIGHT PEACE
What you NEED to do is remove all the belts. Then remove the crank pulley and check the woodruf key. As long as the crank, keyway and key are good then you can put the crank pulley back on then install and torque the crank pulley bolt back on.
My 91 Supra had issues moving from a stop, I would have to put it in Low to get it started then put it in drive after getting up to 2nd gear speed to for it to move without it acting like it would slip from a take off in Drive. I drove it to work (car dealership) and it stopped wanting to move...
I just did a swap and I and trying to fine the best way to keep the original gauge cluster and I’m trying to figure out the best way to convert the speed cable on the Supra to electric sensor on the transmission I’m using a t5 Borge Warner any advice out there
Need to find this Panel Sub-assy, Front End 53903-14080. Selling car need to replace without $250 shipping.Thank you its a time crunch. Yes ik about the virus...
So a little back information on this car. My son and I picked it up when he was 15 and now he is 20. There are a few threads on how we brought the car back to life and have done other things. here is one. https://www.supraforums.com/threads/87-supra-part-3-paint-the-car.1109813/post-13837471
So...
, what is this bolt and can I just put it back in and assume everything is ok?
