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Discussion Starter #1
Guys,

Just noticed an awkard sound when rolling very slow or coming to a stop, I can hear a rotating sound of the rear wheels slushing and metal squealing sound. Its not the pads or disc. Sounds a lot louder and more rough...

Is this my rear wheel bearings going bad? or what other bearings in the rear? Driveshaft?

Nothing from the front, just in the rear.

Thanks for any info..
 

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supraz32tt said:
Guys,

Just noticed an awkard sound when rolling very slow or coming to a stop, I can hear a rotating sound of the rear wheels slushing and metal squealing sound. Its not the pads or disc. Sounds a lot louder and more rough...

According to my car, yes you have bad wheel bearings :) I just went through all of this a couple of months ago.

edit: read this thread right near yours: http://supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=125519&page=4
 

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sounds most likely like rear wheel bearings but it could be something else too. I had my rear wheel bearings replaced last Summer. Jack up the rear and hold the tire/wheel at about 3o'clock and 9o'clock positions and wiggle back and forth to feel for any play; also do it at 12o-clock and 6o'clock. If you have any movement at all, it's the rear wheel bearings.
 

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Nick 95 6sp said:
sounds most likely like rear wheel bearings but it could be something else too. I had my rear wheel bearings replaced last Summer. Jack up the rear and hold the tire/wheel at about 3o'clock and 9o'clock positions and wiggle back and forth to feel for any play; also do it at 12o-clock and 6o'clock. If you have any movement at all, it's the rear wheel bearings.
Yeah but life isn't that black and white. Read post 91:

http://supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=125519&page=4
 

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Nick 95 6sp said:
.... but it could be something else too.

Brakes or wheel bearings.....and his brakes are okay.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Brakes, are ok, I know the sounds when bad brakes occurs, and this new sound is very awkward and annoying.... Thanks for your guys post.

"Blkturbo!" I search and found the parts to buy but is there any specific tools needed for this job.. How difficult and how many hours does it take to replace both rears?
 

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supraz32tt said:
Brakes, are ok, I know the sounds when bad brakes occurs, and this new sound is very awkward and annoying.... Thanks for your guys post.

"Blkturbo!" I search and found the parts to buy but is there any specific tools needed for this job.. How difficult and how many hours does it take to replace both rears?


I did both rears and allowed for 2 weekends. If it's your first time on bearings ever (as it was for me), and you rush yourself, you may be disappointed. But with specific guideance from in here, you could do it in a weekend.....but MAINLY if you have access to a bearing press right away. I had my bearings pressed out and new ones installed on a weeknight at a bodyshop I used to work at.

Anyway, the ONLY special tool I needed and used was the pitman arm puller. That's it :) Everything else you may have in your garage. You'll want a short 19mm 6-point socket and breaker bar too! I had to go and buy one of those sockets.

The Toyota manual says you need a 14mm allen, but you only need that when the hub assemble is out. I wasted a lot of time trying to find one when I didnt even need it until I was at the bodyshop getting them pressed out and in.....the mechanic there had the allen wrench (14mm is a large allen and tricky to find in stores).

If your rear rotors have been on there for a while, have that little metric screw ready to run into the rotor in order to pull it loose from the hub assembly.

Other than that, have a toyota manual with the torque specs for reassembly of the suspension. I have the manual and I also followed the write-up in www.mkiv.com by Chris B. He has 1 or 2 tips in there that should be followed.....like not removing any of the bolts that would effect the rear alignment ;) You do NOT have to remove ANY bolt that causes alignment!!!! ;)

You can do the driver rear with the exhaust bolted up, but it WILL be easier if you can drop it. That will make reinstallation of the driver axle much easier!

Retorque your axle bolts a couple of weeks after reinstalling everything. They have been know to come loose. Go by the torque specs (64lbs I believe) and retorque later in the month to make sure. You'll need the allen socket for removal and reinstallation of the axle bolts. Follow the manual and use only engine oil to lube the axle bolt threads. I'm an anti-seize believer, but wanted to make sure they weren't going to back out. I used engine oil, and when I checked them later, they were all still tight :) A friend's backed out on him.

Mark your axle shaft before removing (paint or dremel stone), so that you can put them back in the same spot!

Do not torque the sway bar end links too tightly when reinstalling them! They will tear if too tight and then you need to order $35 end link...and wait for shipping. I know!

Do NOT allow the rear, lower suspension arm rub against the ball joint boot! It can and likely will tear the boot with just a couple of rubs. The boot comes with a new suspension arm only, and that costs $150 and you have to wait for shipping on that too. I know!
The trick to keep it off the boot when you remove the mounting bolt, is to have a vice grip handy, and then put the vice grip on the suspension arm in such a way that it's impossible for it to swing under tension (from the still-torqued bolt on it's opposite end that you do not need to loosen!) and rub the boot! I used this trick for the other side. Use this during removal and installation.
A 2nd trick to protect this boot is to rub axle grease on the boot and suspension arm so that if the arm does get away from you, and rubs the boot, it will slide past it rather than snag and tear it. Just an ounce of protection....but have the vice grip handy for a sure cure!!

Another place to use the grease trick on boots is during the use of the pitman arm puller. It needs to barely grab JUST between each ball joint and boot. You dont want the arm puller tearing these boots, or you'll multiply the drama. Make sure the puller has a nice bite, then start torqueing it....get it snug, CHECK your bite and boot, then torque some more. Check as you go, and once all is good and you have it getting tight, wait for the loud pop of the balljoint. That's it. 3 per side.

Use the manual to guide you through which suspension bolt to reinstall in which order. There are 3 points that the pitman arm puller is used. These same 3 balljoint points need to be reinstalled and torqued in proper order, or you'll waste a little time doing a balljoint twice.

Do NOT return the arm puller tool to autozone until the job is completely done......i thought I was done, and had to re-rent it 3 times for variou sreason, hahah....which is why you should follow the order of reinstallting the ball joint bolts.

There are a lot of simple tricks, do's and don'ts.....overall, with guideance, this is a very easy job compared to how some may describe it.
Knowing all that I know now from doing it once, I'd do it all over again before I dreamed of paying to have it done.


Clutch job is next on my plate!! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
"BlkTurbo"

Thanks for the advice. Weekends are the only time I have, and some times I feel I should just have somone else do the dirty work... What is the esitmate cost for a job like this to be done by a reputable shop. I know there is a shop down here locally that works on supras.called dynoextreme.

But I love to take care of my car with my hands...Since most of the time its the only one to trust.
 

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Unless you have access to a press and alot of time I would pay someone to do it. It is a fairly big and time consuming job. Especially if you don't have access to a lift. You basically have to take the whole rear suspension apart. It is time consuming job for the average joe and I consider myself above the average joe. I.E. -I have changed my Supra motor, changed my Grandnational motor and tranmission and taken apart 5.0 liter mustang motors apart numerous times,just to give you an example of my mechanical ability.

I just did my rear bearings and wish I would of paid someone to do it, and I have access to a press and pnumatic tools. But thats just my opinion as i'm older now and have more money than time now a days. If your on a tight budget you may want to try to tackle the job yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Turbopower,

Thanks for the post, thats the same way Im feeling, that I should just get it done at a shop, Other than dynoextreme,, where in socali is a reputable shop for supras.
 

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Turbopower said:
Unless you have access to a press and alot of time I would pay someone to do it. It is a fairly big and time consuming job. Especially if you don't have access to a lift. You basically have to take the whole rear suspension apart. It is time consuming job for the average joe and I consider myself above the average joe. I.E. -I have changed my Supra motor, changed my Grandnational motor and tranmission and taken apart 5.0 liter mustang motors apart numerous times,just to give you an example of my mechanical ability.

I just did my rear bearings and wish I would of paid someone to do it, and I have access to a press and pnumatic tools. But thats just my opinion as i'm older now and have more money than time now a days. If your on a tight budget you may want to try to tackle the job yourself.
I'm in the same situation as you, but I'm just a little younger. :)
 

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Turbopower said:
Unless you have access to a press and alot of time I would pay someone to do it. It is a fairly big and time consuming job. Especially if you don't have access to a lift. You basically have to take the whole rear suspension apart. It is time consuming job for the average joe and I consider myself above the average joe. I.E. -I have changed my Supra motor, changed my Grandnational motor and tranmission and taken apart 5.0 liter mustang motors apart numerous times,just to give you an example of my mechanical ability.

I just did my rear bearings and wish I would of paid someone to do it, and I have access to a press and pnumatic tools. But thats just my opinion as i'm older now and have more money than time now a days. If your on a tight budget you may want to try to tackle the job yourself.

supraz32tt - Don't let this guy scare you!! Unless you have zero car experience, this is not THAT big of a deal.

I fall in the middle in terms of level of ability. I've assembled an entire 85 mustang GT and did clutches on it and minor suspension etc. This guy sounds like he's got done AT LEAST what I've done in my time with cars. I cant believe a guy with his credentials would talk so scary about doing these bearings.

Turbopower - "the whole rear suspension"? Hardly! The shocks and springs and all upper control arms go untouched. It's just 3 suspension parts on each side......and only where they attatch at the ball joints.
Other than that, it's brakes and the axles.....and the axles aint shit. That's it. With my precautionary tips and the write-up in mkiv.com, it cant get any easier.

Dont need a lift either! Unless you're scared to lay under the car just to remove 6 bolts on each side for the axles.


Supraz32tt - if you're not a complete boob or spaz, and have had some experience with tools before, you should be able to do this in 2 comfortable weekends, while having the few tools I mentioned and a place ready to press the bearings. Dont spend hundreds at Toyota unless you know you're clueless with tools.

No, its not exactly fun, but it's DAMN WORTH saving several hundred bucks! ($700+ if Im not mistaken)
 

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how much is toyota charging for this? does anyone know?
 

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I *think* my friend told me he was quoted 700....not sure if that was per side.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Im in orange county.
 

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blkturbo! said:
supraz32tt - Don't let this guy scare you!! Unless you have zero car experience, this is not THAT big of a deal.

I fall in the middle in terms of level of ability. I've assembled an entire 85 mustang GT and did clutches on it and minor suspension etc. This guy sounds like he's got done AT LEAST what I've done in my time with cars. I cant believe a guy with his credentials would talk so scary about doing these bearings.

Turbopower - "the whole rear suspension"? Hardly! The shocks and springs and all upper control arms go untouched. It's just 3 suspension parts on each side......and only where they attatch at the ball joints.
Other than that, it's brakes and the axles.....and the axles aint shit. That's it. With my precautionary tips and the write-up in mkiv.com, it cant get any easier.

Dont need a lift either! Unless you're scared to lay under the car just to remove 6 bolts on each side for the axles.
.
Supraz32tt - if you're not a complete boob or spaz, and have had some experience with tools before, you should be able to do this in 2 comfortable weekends, while having the few tools I mentioned and a place ready to press the bearings. Dont spend hundreds at Toyota unless you know you're clueless with tools.

No, its not exactly fun, but it's DAMN WORTH saving several hundred bucks! ($700+ if Im not mistaken)

Look im not trying to scare him, i"m being realistic. Yes I did it on jackstands as you, but it would be alot easier on a lift. Does the average Joe have pnuematic tools and a press at home to do the job, I don't think so. Yes you did the job yourself with a press. Imagine doing the job without a press not very easy huh.
Does he have a 32MM imact socket(I believe that was the size) for the axle nut, how about a pitman arm puller, or a torque wrench that can go over 200 lb/ft. Do you see where i'm going with this. I'm not trying to scare anybody i'm just saying the average Joe is not set up to do this job. You also have to consider the most valuable asset of all ,time. Everyone doesn't has time to do this job or to have the car down for two or three weeks. This is not a flame to you blkturbo! i'm just telling him the way it really is.
 

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Turbopower said:
Look im not trying to scare him, i"m being realistic. Yes I did it on jackstands as you, but it would be alot easier on a lift. Does the average Joe have pnuematic tools and a press at home to do the job, I don't think so. Yes you did the job yourself with a press. Imagine doing the job without a press not very easy huh.
Does he have a 32MM imact socket(I believe that was the size) for the axle nut, how about a pitman arm puller, or a torque wrench that can go over 200 lb/ft. Do you see where i'm going with this. I'm not trying to scare anybody i'm just saying the average Joe is not set up to do this job. You also have to consider the most valuable asset of all ,time. Everyone doesn't has time to do this job or to have the car down for two or three weeks. This is not a flame to you blkturbo! i'm just telling him the way it really is.

Yeah I hear ya. I just felt like you were leaning towards talking him out of the job....a job that I myself was VERY skeptical about doing. And I'm here now, saying that I'd do it again if I had to :D I literally had to mentally buck myself up for the weeks before I had the chance to knock it out. I went in, prepared for the worst. And this was with the verbal help of a friend who did his in 1 weekend.
A lift? Sure, everything's easier on a lift. But how many people have their own lift to begin with.

Anyway, I dont have my own press. I bought a 32mm 6pt socket, and rented the pitman arm puller tool. Easy enough.
The only way I was lucky was that I'm friends with the bodyshop where their mechanic did all the pressing for me. But without them, it just would have had to go to the next available machine shop and pay them. Some have simply had this done at PepBoys and Napa.

I agree with you on the time element and having a 2nd car etc. But my buddy started his on Fri evening, had bearings done on Sat. mid day, and back together by that Sat or Sun afternoon.

I simply look at it like this: f*ck spending all that hard-earned cake on some strange mechanic who's just gonna throw your shit together to make his hours! :D

EDIT: Oh yeah, I had the 32mm nut torqued at the shop too. I got it as good as possible on my own with a typical torque wrench (forgot the total lbs), then drove to the mechanic for a full torque.
 

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"I simply look at it like this: f*ck spending all that hard-earned cake on some strange mechanic who's just gonna throw your shit together to make his hours! "

my thinking exactly. i have a 600 lb torque wrench, im buying a pitman arm puller,
and i have the 32 mm socket from torqing down the loose nut in the first place.
im doing this, damn the torpedos full speed ahead.
 

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Certainly sounds like the wheel bearings, I had the same symptoms last year. I had them replaced and they've been perfect. I paid $100 for the labour. Gotta love having a mechanic that is a mate! :D
 
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