Supra Forums banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
594 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm currently replacing my suspension with HK RS, already done the rears, simple enough. As for the fronts, I need to remove the upper suspension arm bolt to remove the stock suspension. According to our repair manual, this bolt is set to 121ft.lbf, but I wasn't able to lossen it with my air tools, any suggestions?


Thanks!
 

·
Luvs ( . ) ( . )s
Joined
·
2,101 Posts
Forget the upper arm bolt, just undo the bottom bolt and the top 3, unbolt the sway bar, and then have someone compress down the hub as much as they can until the bottom bracket of the shock assembly clears the lower arm, then let the shock assembly drop down then pull the top of the shock assemebly towards you and pull it out. Its that simple.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
To get that really looonng bolt out i had to hammer a wrench until it budged. I also let it sit with penetrating oil for about a half hour before.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
594 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
StickyRice said:
Forget the upper arm bolt, just undo the bottom bolt and the top 3, unbolt the sway bar, and then have someone compress down the hub as much as they can until the bottom bracket of the shock assembly clears the lower arm, then let the shock assembly drop down then pull the top of the shock assemebly towards you and pull it out. Its that simple.

Thanks I'll give that a try tonight, anyone else try this method?
 

·
Old School
Joined
·
4,125 Posts
IntheSearch said:
Thanks I'll give that a try tonight, anyone else try this method?

Many have used it, me included. Works great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
594 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
TT Tercel said:
You could use a breaker bar. Thats what I used
Is this what a shop would use? I can't imagin an air tool undoing this bolt!
 

·
Last stock TT on Earth
Joined
·
625 Posts
Sticky Rice is right. No need to undo the upper arm bolt in the front. It's a little tricky the first time you do it but it can be done no problem. Push down on the spindle, and push the shock assembly back and to the left until it clears the lower arm. It will drop down and then pull it out. On assembly, it makes it easier if you have the coilover set up such that the ride height is set at its lowest. This will give you the most clearance. Once you bolt it in, readjust the ride height to your initial guess.

As for the breaker bar, no, a shop would use their 800 ft-lb Snap-on impact wrench and big ass air compressor, both of which most do-it-yourselfers don't have. My $250 air compressor which flows 4 scfm at 90 psi isn't even close to enough flow to use a "real" impact wrench. However, a 4ft breaker bar can be had by the average Joe for $20 and works great. But again, no need to deal with the long bolt, plastic shielding, windshield fluid tank, etc.

If your links are rusted to the point that removing the nut is not possible (eg. you stripped the hex key hole in the middle of the stud and now the ball joint rotates with the nut) just use vice grips and hold the ball joint stud. Don't ask me why the rear links have those great clips which prevent the ball joint from rotating and fronts don't.

Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
594 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Had to do it according to the repair manual... removing the upper arm. Luckily the long bolt holding the arm slid off pretty easily... I can imagin how this could be difficult for some if it were stuck.

Thanks for the help guys!
 

·
Last stock TT on Earth
Joined
·
625 Posts
Good to hear.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top