Supra Forums banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,786 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Will be installing 272 BC cams, springs, retainers, keepers and of course those pesky oem seals.


Still a bit confused on when I need to put motor at TDC since I am doing the "rope trick" does this matter?


So would you do shimless buckets like this?

Please correct if wrong.

1.Remove the oem Cams. Install BC cams over the oem shim on buckets. 2.Measure clearance.
3.Do the math.
4.Buy 24 shimless buckets with proper clearance specs from my BC cams card. Remove BC cams.
5.Do the "rope trick."
6.Remove OEM buckets,springs,retainers,keepers,seals. 7.Install oem seals, BC spring,retainers, keepers,shimless buckets, camshafts?

Myself being very OCD if there's anymore to this procedure please let me know. Thank you guys;)
 

·
Mind if I do a J?
Joined
·
3,181 Posts
Regarding the rope trick and TDC... the reason you are doing this is to keep the valves from falling into the cylinder when removing the locks. So remove spark plug, put a long socket extension down the plug hole so as you turn the crank by hand you can see the piston (extension) move up and down. So starting at cylinder 1, put the piston at bottom dead center (turn crank so the extension drops all the way down before going back up), full cylinder with as much rope as you can (you can fit at least 5 feet in there), then slowly turn crank clockwise until you get to the point where there’s resistance and you can’t rotate anymore. What this has done is compressed the rope in the cylinder between the piston and head (and valves). Now you can remove the locks without the valve dropping down. Change the springs and retainers on the two exhaust valves and two intake valves on that cylinder, put the locks back in place, give each valve a good few taps to make sure they’re fully secure, and then move the crank counter clockwise just a tiny bit to relieve pressure on the rope and pull the rope out. Repeat on the next five cylinders. And for the love of fucking god plug the oil galleys with shop towels before you start.
Also I would do this, then install the cams, measure the clearances like you said, then pull the cams and buckets out, take your full measurements, then order the appropriate buckets. Another solution to this is the Supertech shim under bucket. Buckets are all the same size but there are little shims that go underneath between the bucket and the valve stem. This allows you in the future to change the $3 shim instead of the $25 bucket in case you’re out of spec.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I would not fill my cylinder with rope. I would use a leak down kit and put air pressure in cylinder. Why risk foreign material contamination. Always blow spark plug hole off before taking plug out as well . This is an interference engine and if each piston is at tdc the valves are not going far... just my 2 cents... cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
This is an interference engine and if each piston is at tdc the valves are not going far
Its non interference till you get into big cam territory.

I know shops use the compressed air method everyday but the rope trick works just fine as well. Not everyone has a large volume air compressor to keep the air flowing long enough to prevent valve drop. Plus the force it takes to compress an aftermarket spring enough to get the retainer + lock on makes my butt cinch up lol. Makes me glad there’s something solid to push against.
 

·
Blue Thunder
Joined
·
3,418 Posts
Nylon rope for the win ! Been doing it that way for years !!! No need to worry about any loss of air/power and the valves falling in. Just don't turn crank until you are done. Very fool proof.
I'll add..... use compressed air to clean spark plug valleys of debris BEFORE you remove the spark plugs. To avoid the
contamination Allanmf was worried about.

B
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,786 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
So my OCD is kicking in pretty hard this weekend lol. Sorry guys. One more time...

Just to be SUPER CLEAR before I start the job.

Correct me if I am wrong please!

First I remove oem cams, install BC cams over old oem buckets, springs etc., measure, do math, order 24 new shimless buckets. Then remove BC cams and all the guts using rope trick( seals, springs, retainers, keepers) install new seals, BC springs, retainers and keepers. This I'm still unclear about... With T-belt off, I put crank at -10 btdc so all pistons are slightly down, install BC 272 cams, install cam gears, torque cams as per manual. Then turn crank clockwise to tdc notch, and turn cams to tdc notches too. Install t-belt? Correct? Thank you!

Jay
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top