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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up these SuperPro steering rack bushings from here:
I swear on my life that the passenger side one is wrong/too small. The driver side one (next to the pump) fits snugly. The instructions are for the RHD supra, but unless RHD supras have skinnier steering racks it should work just fine if you swap the L/R bushings.
Cross-threaded my fucking subframe already trying to cinch it down. Do I have brain problems? There's no way this bushing is correct.
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Driver side one fits nice and snug:
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Any one else completed this swap? Also any advice on fixing the cross-threaded hole for the bushing bracket? I stopped about half-way. Should I take a thread-forming M12-1.0 tap and come at it from the bottom of the hole?
 

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Do you have the 47 mm or 50 mm bushing? Different sizes for JDM and USDM cars. Contact @bitshftr here on SF. He just installed his with no issues (USDM car).


Ken.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do you have the 47 mm or 50 mm bushing? Different sizes for JDM and USDM cars. Contact @bitshftr here on SF. He just installed his with no issues (USDM car).


Ken.
bitshiftr has a MK4, he went with StrongFlex bushings. They don't make them for the MK3 I think.
I got some 'Ricochet' brand ones from eBay. Let's see how it goes...
I'll probably ask suspension.com for my $40 back.
 

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My mistake. Didn't realize this was a MKIII question. Best of luck.


Ken.
 
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I also ordered a set of SuperPro steering rack bushings and waiting for delivery. Hopefully, they'll fit.

And yeah, Strongflex doesn't carry the Mk3 steering rack bushings. Wish they did, they make good products and have used their subframe bushings.
 

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Run a tap through the hole and pick up a new bolt. If the threads are to fucked up maybe try using a bolt a 1/2 inch longer with a nylon nut as extra security. I have the same bushings and had a horrible time getting my bolts started. Try using Chanel locks to hold the clamps closer together before threading in. I think did something like that.
 

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Same here, we had a really hard time getting them in and bolt lining up. As stated I might’ve used channel locks or something to smash it close to get bolt started. Once’s started it will clamp closed. Was a fight though.
 

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Related question, since my car decided to literally tear my passenger side bushing in half, did the rack have to come out to do the swap? I plan on removing mine anyhow, to sort out an annoying steering leak (on a Mk3? Nooooo....), but it can't be driven without a new rack bushing. It can be driven without power steering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Related question, since my car decided to literally tear my passenger side bushing in half, did the rack have to come out to do the swap? I plan on removing mine anyhow, to sort out an annoying steering leak (on a Mk3? Nooooo....), but it can't be driven without a new rack bushing. It can be driven without power steering.
I don't think it has to come out but I think it would be a major pain in the ass. I can't even imagine trying to get these bushings clamped in from underneath the car.

I have my whole subframe out and taken apart
 

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I did mine while in the car. Dropped my sub frame and everything besides rack and pinion. Didn’t want to separate from steering. Had subframe welded in some areas and powder coated. New bushings at all points and inner and outter tie rods.
I followed poor man mods video on removing and installing subframe.
 

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Looks like I'll be buying an engine support bar then, so I can drop the subframe out and sort out the rack... I really hate that car sometimes.

Can't autocross without power steering, but have absolutely no real need for it anywhere else. Would be nice if we had other options for racks. With Toyota teasing us with door handle reproduction, why not start with things that actually go bad on these cars??? I don't think I've ever seen a door handle on a Mk3 that had gone bad. Meanwhile, just about every Mk3 could use a new rack by now.
 
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Looks like I'll be buying an engine support bar then, so I can drop the subframe out and sort out the rack... I really hate that car sometimes.
If I'm reading this old post correctly, it looks like the steering rack bushings can be replaced without dropping the subframe? Hopefully, that is the case since I'm planning to replace my steering rack bushings this weekend.

How to replace steering rack bushings? | Supra Forums

Update: I did the install today (5/18/2021). Subframe didn't need to be dropped.
Replacing Power Steering Rack Bushings | Supra Forums
 

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@OldBonus Thanks for the confirmation. In my case I have to pull the rack itself out to do a deep diagnosis as to why I can't get it to stop leaking at the rack. My engine bay is, to put it as politely as I can, 200 lbs of crap in a 50 lb sack. "Crowded" does not really do it justice, so it's almost impossible to see in order to fix.

But... if I can get the bushings replaced, I can just eliminate the power steering and at least drive the car. So, thanks again!
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Got the bushings sorted. The Ricochet eBay ones were the same size, but hard as a rock. I used a ratcheting clamp thing to pull the bracket close enough for me to thread the bolt in. Weird because even while torqued down, the passenger side bushing still barely fit. there's a very obvious gap where it's split. I wonder if it will negatively impact steering feel.
 

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Ricochet advertises that Aramid fiber is added in to their polyurethane - maybe that stiffens them up? If you got them in and torqued down, I would think you're good to go.
The superpro's I installed were flexible and slid into place easily. But I still ended up with a little gap on passenger side when bracket was torqued down. Here's a pic:

260629
 

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Ricochet advertises that Aramid fiber is added in to their polyurethane - maybe that stiffens them up? If you got them in and torqued down, I would think you're good to go.
The superpro's I installed were flexible and slid into place easily. But I still ended up with a little gap on passenger side when bracket was torqued down. Here's a pic:

View attachment 260629
I was recently under my car last weekend re doing my fuel lines and looked over to confirm bushings. Mine has the same gap but drives amazing with the front end over haul! Should be fine
 

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If you're doing any sort of serious cornering, I'd advise checking your rack bushings (and clamp bolts!) as part of a maintenance routine. I don't know the brand I put in mine, just that it was some sort of orange polyurethane, and it literally ripped the passenger bushing in half. I pulled it out of the rack by hand... So, perhaps the difficulty installing might not be such a bad thing, semi-interference fit, perhaps.
 

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Final gap on mine
Is the bottom of your bracket (at mounting bolt) resting on the subframe? From your photo, there seems to be some space. If the bracket can come down a bit more, the gap might become smaller.
Here's a photo of my bushing/bracket in the area I'm referring to:
(My bracket is resting flush on top of subframe; bracket bolt torqued to 56 ft/bs.)

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One more thing I noticed is that your steering boot looks far away from the bushing. Maybe that's because yours is RHD?
 
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