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Discussion Starter #1
If you are like me and have no access to a lift or have any mechanic friends, this is the easiest way to put on an aftermarket downpipe.

I know I'm not the only one to think this but installing a downpipe is a BITCH!!! Whelp, I first attempted to do it myself with jackstands. Yeah right! I couldn't get one bolt to budge on the turbo and there is three:(. So, I asked every friggin shop I could find, and not even the shittest hole of a shop would take the cats off. So now what? On my lunch break, I went to one more shop, but I didn't tell the manger that it replaces the cats. So, he threw it up on the lift to take a look. He then realized that it replaced the cats so he said he can't do it. So, I asked him if he could just loosen the bolts. He said sure and got one of his mechanics to loosen them. The guy used an impact wrench:eek: but he didn't round them off. He actually had a really hard time getting them off. He had to blowtorch them and hit them with the impact wrench a bunch of times till they finally came loose. There was no way in hell I could have done this with some blaster, a breaker bar, and the car on jackstands. I asked the manager how much, he said nothing, don't worry about it. So, I slipped the mechanic who did the work $20 for the trouble, now the job should be cake(hopefully). I can't wait to get home and finish the job.
 
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Clean up the area around the nuts too. Mayb put a lil grease on the new bolts b4 putting the in.
 

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i posted this same tip and i was told it would not work :rolleyes:
even though thats how i had done it!
 
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it's actually a nice old trick with the torch. however it all depends on what works and what doesn't. i've had friends that tried using a torch to no degree, but a big long fat breaker bar(with a CAR doing the breaking-long story dont ask) doing the job. sometimes it takes BOTH brains and brawns... just gotta be smart about it :)
 

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I think I might end up doing that as well...I had my car all up on Jacks...tried WD-40...some other type of penitrating oil...Nothing...Next time...impact gun...new bolts :)
 
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SdSupraTT said:
I think I might end up doing that as well...I had my car all up on Jacks...tried WD-40...some other type of penitrating oil...Nothing...Next time...impact gun...new bolts :)

if you really wana do that, give me a ring i have a few tricks for gettint those STUBBORN exhaust bolts loose, (the GSCV was a BITCH and a half you cant get a socket on one of the bolts! :) )
 
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I'll be installing my DP this weekend. Prior to ordering it I checked to see if all the bolts would break loose without problem and they did.

There was a thread a while back and it suggested the following:
1. Soak all the H/W with PB Blaster. (I blasted all my hardware a few days in advance).
2. Use a 6 pt impact socket, wobble extension, and breaker bar, but don't use a pneumatic impact tool.
3. Have lots of good light and seat the socket square on the nuts before you apply torque.
4. Order new nuts from toyota prior to re-assembly since they should only be used only.

I have a few related questions:

Is it best to remove the entire old assembly in one piece or unfasten it between the pre and post cat and take it out in two sections?

I bought a new Toyota gasket for the waste gate/pre cat and one for the post cat/cat back exhaust. The rear gasket looks too small to make a good seal to my 3.5" downpipe. It's barely bigger than the 3.5" DP hole.
1. Should I try and re-use the old one assuming it's bigger? (maybe I ordered the wrong PN)
2. Should I try Ultra Copper Silicone seal?
3. I bought a sheet of DIY exhaust gasket material. Graphite with an inner layer of metal. Would it be better to make my own gasket?

Whatever I don't use, I'll be able to return.

What about the O2 sensor. There's a shield in the way and I'd like to remove it but am not sure how it unattaches? If it's not meant to be removed, I can probably remove the O2 sensor just by feel.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Whelp, I finished the job. It was easy as hell. Thank god for the loose bolts. The only pain was the limited workspace from using jackstands.

I have the stock exhaust with the RMM downpipe. At idle and regular driving, sounds no louder than stock. At WOT, it has a pretty mean growl... its not that loud but its mean sounding. Total sleeper, waiting for the unsuspecting.

The spool up is much, much quicker. Before the dp, I could break the tires loose when #2 came on... now, I almost lose control :).

Gonna be at Englishtown on Sunday, I better hit a low 12!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
davefr said:
I'll be installing my DP this weekend. Prior to ordering it I checked to see if all the bolts would break loose without problem and they did.

There was a thread a while back and it suggested the following:
1. Soak all the H/W with PB Blaster. (I blasted all my hardware a few days in advance).
2. Use a 6 pt impact socket, wobble extension, and breaker bar, but don't use a pneumatic impact tool.
3. Have lots of good light and seat the socket square on the nuts before you apply torque.
4. Order new nuts from toyota prior to re-assembly since they should only be used only.

I have a few related questions:

Is it best to remove the entire old assembly in one piece or unfasten it between the pre and post cat and take it out in two sections?

I bought a new Toyota gasket for the waste gate/pre cat and one for the post cat/cat back exhaust. The rear gasket looks too small to make a good seal to my 3.5" downpipe. It's barely bigger than the 3.5" DP hole.
1. Should I try and re-use the old one assuming it's bigger? (maybe I ordered the wrong PN)
2. Should I try Ultra Copper Silicone seal?
3. I bought a sheet of DIY exhaust gasket material. Graphite with an inner layer of metal. Would it be better to make my own gasket?

Whatever I don't use, I'll be able to return.

What about the O2 sensor. There's a shield in the way and I'd like to remove it but am not sure how it unattaches? If it's not meant to be removed, I can probably remove the O2 sensor just by feel.
Well dude, good luck removing the 3 bolts, especially if you're using jackstands. Keeping the socket square over the bolt while applying torque with such a small space to work with is a bitch. On a lift is no problem, you have more control and you can use your body weight.

If I were you, ditch the Toyota gaskets and make your own by tracing the ends of the downpipe. There is no groove in the downpipe to hold the gasket so keeping the Toyota gasket in place while trying to install would be a bitch.

The shield is bolted on with the O2 sensor. It goes O2 sensor, shield, then bolts holding them both down. 12mm and 3in extension. Its easy.
 

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I say take it to a shop and tell them:
"It's for off-road use - e.g., road-racing."
They should do it for you. I had mine replaced for $40 at a muffler shop.
 

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i couldnt get the car jacked up high enuff so i didnt have access to even reach the 3 bolts, but a freind of mine put my car on a ramp and jack stands and took 3 bolts of with extensions. I think with extensions and if the car is jacked up high enuff you can do the job fairly easier.
 
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I just completed the downpipe installation this morning. Here are a couple additional tips:

1. Except for the O2 sensor, don't buy new gaskets from Toyota. They don't fit well with the DP and aren't worth the trouble. It appears most DP's don't come with gaskets so just make them. A good parts store will sell a sheet of exhaust gasket material. Get the dark graphite type with metal embedded and just cut them to size.

2. The downpipe installation faq at the MKIV site says to remove the old assembly as a complete unit. I found it much easier to split the two halves.

3. Use high temp antiseeze compound on all fasteners. NAPA sells it.

4. When you remove the O2 sensor put it in a ziplock baggie to protect the head and lay it on the driveshaft

5. Loosely fit the DP to the front flange and rear flange and then tighten up the fasteners. Don't tighten one end until the whole pipe is connected.

6. Don't attempt the job without a wobble extension, 6 pt socket, and good lighting.

It took me about 2 hrs with the car on rino ramps.

Great performance gain!!!
 
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