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Discussion Starter #1
anyone ever had injectors go bad on them? what are the symptoms?

thanx

Jonas
 

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Zerosoul said:
anyone ever had injectors go bad on them? what are the symptoms?

thanx

Jonas
I think that EGTs on stock twins get alot higher than anyone realizes. Mine creap up to over 1700F pretty easily. I think that if you're getting high egts its probably a function of timing retard. If you had a bad injector(s), you car would probably idle wierd.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
what's the octane level of fuel your using??
 

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hey guys...wat is your egt reading in your supras lately...especially those of you in california whom are stuck with 91 octane just like myself. with normal driving...mine stays under 600c but once about 3 weeks ago, i noticed my max egt reading was almost 800c. scary. ever since then, i havent used high boost.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
what kind of EGT gauge you use? mine is Omori and I hit 760C on top end pull with 91 octan CA gas.

I am trying to find a source for this high EGT reading, but I have replaced everything I could think of, fuel pump, fuel regulator, filter, coolant, even put in a fuel pressure gauge to monitor my fuel pressure but still get high EGT.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
@zerosoul,
what is your setup/mods on your car? 6speed or automatic?
 

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Zerosoul said:
what kind of EGT gauge you use? mine is Omori and I hit 760C on top end pull with 91 octan CA gas.

I am trying to find a source for this high EGT reading, but I have replaced everything I could think of, fuel pump, fuel regulator, filter, coolant, even put in a fuel pressure gauge to monitor my fuel pressure but still get high EGT.
But have you checked your actual a/f? What does the gauge read if you lower your boost 2 psi?

What plugs are you using? What heat range? Does it do it with the 6097s?
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Grant said:


But have you checked your actual a/f? What does the gauge read if you lower your boost 2 psi?

What plugs are you using? What heat range? Does it do it with the 6097s?
Grant,

I am going in Next Monday to have my A/F checked out with wideband O2 sensor on the dyno. also tune in my HKS AFR.
EGT lowers when boost lower, but not much. 10-20C. at 14psi

I am using NGK6097. before I was running stock Iradium plug but both plugs resulted in same EGT reading. I ordered a set of new Iradiums in heat range 7, gonna try those out.

Supra500: I am BPU with FMIC. 18psi. 6 speed.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
SUPRA500 said:
@zerosoul,
what is your setup/mods on your car? 6speed or automatic?
Supra500: BTW nice car! love that color. is it stock Baltic blue?
do you have more pictures of your car? I would love to see it.:bthumb:
 
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Discussion Starter #11
My EGT's were getting up there after I first put in my AFR. I just added some fuel in the top end and it seems to have taken care of the problem.
 
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carcnoid said:
My EGT's were getting up there after I first put in my AFR. I just added some fuel in the top end and it seems to have taken care of the problem.
thanx for the info. I guess you would be running different A/F ratio then stock twin then? if not, what ratios did you dial in? I am about to have my HKS AFR dyno tuned also..

Jonas
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Uhm, I am no expert and I am in London so I don't remember what I dialed in exactly.

If I remember correctly, I leaned it out a bit on the low end (To my knowledge low end A/F doesnt matter) and added some fuel in on the top end. I think I added from 4-10 (whatever the units are) above 4000.

All I know is that my Greddy A/F (not that accurate) droped A/F from 13.2 to 10.0 under full boost 6500RPM in 4th gear. Along with that, my EGT's came down considerably. The car seems to respond a lot quicker too, go figure.

I wanted to play it safe until I stick the Wideband O2 on my car in Dec.

But don't quote me on what I've done because I really don't know if its right. It just seemed logical at the time.
 

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Jon, mid range a/f DOES matter, probably even more than high end. IME you can lean it out much more around redline before the ECU pulls timing, epecially w/ BPU since you don't hold as much boost to redline. But the high volumetric effeciency (ie torque) the greater the car is prone to detonate.

I think your car was just running lean up top and rich in the middle.

Yeah it really responded like shit before didn't it? Its a shame we didn't race, I'd have pulled on you :)

Jonas, I too am obviously no expert, but if it really only lowers your EGTs by 10-20C running 14 psi, I'd guess an a/f problem. I'd shoot for the same a/fs as Andi does, low 11s, like 11.2:1. That way your safe to do 6th gear top end pulls :cool:

FYI my EGT gauge stopped moving at 670 at 160 mph.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Grant said:
Jon, mid range a/f DOES matter, probably even more than high end. IME you can lean it out much more around redline before the ECU pulls timing, epecially w/ BPU since you don't hold as much boost to redline. But the high volumetric effeciency (ie torque) the greater the car is prone to detonate.

I think your car was just running lean up top and rich in the middle.

Yeah it really responded like shit before didn't it? Its a shame we didn't race, I'd have pulled on you :)

Jonas, I too am obviously no expert, but if it really only lowers your EGTs by 10-20C running 14 psi, I'd guess an a/f problem. I'd shoot for the same a/fs as Andi does, low 11s, like 11.2:1. That way your safe to do 6th gear top end pulls :cool:

FYI my EGT gauge stopped moving at 670 at 160 mph.
what kind of boost gauge are you using? GReddy? yeh all my friends Greddy EGT stops at about 690-700Cmax. I will try to hook up a Greddy EGt after the dyno session and if the problem still exists.
 

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dont know if its your injectors but when mine when bad i had no sighns of them going! egt reading was fine
they where fine one minute then a few minutes later they just went bad on me !where is your egt prob located!
 
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Discussion Starter #17
I talked to Breuce Nomura and he told me when injectors go bad the car will feel like its missing big time! and Japanease injectors lasts forever!
 
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@zerosoul
did you ever checked if your waterpump works fine? there are two diffrent models from waterpumps from stock..... one works fine the other works worth. you have an efi water temp sensor, if the sensor reading wrong or high water temp the efi system will reduce amount of gas.....result high egt temps....
does the 6 speed also have a oiltemp sensor in the tranny like the automatic? ..........same procedure like the efi water temp sensor, if the tranny fluid is too hot, maybee the clutch slips the ecu reduce the amount of fuel..........result high egt temps......
did you check your fuel pump and fpr? at many times the backpressure valve is not anymore good enough to hold 1,5 bar fuel pressure in the line during 5 minutes after turn off the engine.......result high egts because pump will not support you enough pressure and enough fuel under full load or the fpr will not hold enough pressure under full load.........
result high egt temps
I ordered 2 new pumps and both had a bad backpressure valve.

have you checked your belt tensioner? I saw a view cars at 3500rpm up to 4500 rpm idlingspeed somtimes higher the belt was flying over the waterpumppuley and the pumppulley doesn't move anymore infact of a bad tensioner........from 94 as today toyota made 4 internal upgrades in the tensioner........

did you ever checked your lamda sonde #1, if its bad the ecu does not know how much fuel your engine needs, in the most case the ecu lean out........

hope it helps, sorry for my bad english I live in Switzerland the country of the mountains, choclate and cheese

:D:D:D:D
 
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Discussion Starter #19
thanx supra500!

things I've replaced so far:
FPR, fuel filter, stock fuel pump, coolant, thermostate.

another guy on my other post says at full boost he runs about 65psi of fuel pressure which is about 8 psi more than what I am running now at 57psi, so I am gonna dial in more fuel pressure.

I am gonna tune my A/F on dyno next Monday, and if after tunning
I still get high EGT, I will look into those sensors you mentioned and especially the water pump. I dont believe Toyota changed my water pump the last time I replaced my timing belt...stupid dealer.:mad:

where did you get the information saying that when the sensor detected overheat is will reduce fuel? that sounds quite dangerous...can anyone confirm that?

BTW, dont worry about english...its not my first language also! I'm from the land of Typhoon and computer chips AKA. taiwan

thanx

Jonas:D
 
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Discussion Starter #20
@zerosoul,
I made some test on my car. I drive an automatic which has now about 23 % drive train loss!!!!! a friend of mine has about 12% on his supra....... my egt was usualy about 620 by 1.49 bar 640 by 1.65 bar never higher than that. If my car is running perfect I'm able to have 1.49 bar boost till redline in the 3rd gear(automatic) I know thats amazing. a fiew weeks ago the situation chages again, egt arround 700 to 710 and I felt that the automatic tranny begin to slip between 1st and 2nd and 2nd to the 3rd gear. sometime it slips in the 3rd gear above 4500rpm. I decided to make a resistor between the oil temp sensor and the ecu. I capped the sensor and install a 10 kohm resistor into the sensor line and ground. this simulates oiltemp arround 40 celsius I think. after this test my egt gona back to 620 to 640.... now I ordered an tranny upgrade same than sp engineering. I think everything will fixed in about 1 or 2 month. the winter will start now here in switzerland. I forgot 1 thing on my last posting:
go and check your efi main and 2nd relay like descripted in the repair manual. don't forget to shake the relay when you measure them you will be surprised...... on 8 car what I already tested 14 relays was bad.....up to 50 ohm resistance no continuity..... and these relay steer your efi system and the 9 to 12 v jump from the pump.....

hope it helps, but again its not shure that your pump is realy o.k. go and buy a walbro gss341 its only about usd 125.-- cheaper and stronger than the stock pump. set your fpr at idling to 2.5 bar than you will have at the top of 4.5 bar, you will feel the diffrence (make you own calculations on rc engineering you will see that this setting is the best for the 550cc injectors....
dont use denso irridium with 4.5 bar fuel pressure the will fail (already had this problem on my car) try to get the bosch 4417 I know what all the guys are talking arround about this plugs but you have to trust me buy it and you will feel an see the diffrence.... only usd 5.99/pcs

I already spend more than 400 hours on my car to figure out all these problems and combination of plugs fuel pressure egt and boost and many more.....

if you trust me you will be happy if not you will spend a lot of work in your car.........
 
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