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697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
-----------------------------------------------------BUILD LIST----------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------As it sits or Already purchased----------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------ MARCH 14, 2012 ---------------------------------------------------


Precision 6765 CEA Billet Polished HP-Cover 1.00 A/R Divided T4 Housing Ceramic Coated

-- Head -- Cleaned, Decked, Street Ported and Polished
Titan 272 VVTI Cams
ARP Headstuds
OEM Supra TT Headgasket (Titan's Recommendation)
FULL FERREA VALVETRAIN - Beehive Springs, Titanium Retainers, Bronze Valve Guides (Intake and Exhaust), Intake Competition Plus Valves, Custom Pyromet Competition Plus Exhaust Valves, Locks, Viton Valve Stem Seals

-- Block -- Cleaned, Hot Tanked, Decked, Line Honed, Bore and Hone .20 Over,
Crankshaft - Hot Tanked, Micropolished, Magnafluxed
Manley Turbo Tuff "I" Beam Rods w/ ARP 2000 Bolts
Wiseco Pistons 86.5 .20 Over w/S710 Upgraded Wrist Pins
ACL Bearings Race "X" Series
ARP Mainstuds & ARP Cam gear Bolts

--Additional Motor Related Parts --
Custom Polyurethane Motor Mounts by Sparky0025
Gates Racing Timing Belt & Gates Racing Serpentine Belt (Adjusted to accommodate ATI Pulley)
NGK BR8EIX Iridium Spark Plugs
Koyo Racing Aluminum Radiator w/ ARC 1.1 Bar Radiator Cap
Flex-A-Lite Thin Fans
ATI Crank Pulley Dampener
Unorthodox Racing Waterpump Pulley, Alternator Pulley, Idler Pulley, Power Steering Pulley
Titan Motorsports Billet Tensioner
Sound Performance Modified Oil Pump
Sound Performance Quick Spool Valve W/Switching Valve Solenoid (for QSV control via standalone)
Sound Performance Boost Activated Exhaust Cut out (W/Switching Valve Solenoid and Hobbs switch (to wire up electrical switch to keep cutout closed) & W/Stainless Steel weld-in Y-pipe
ETS Ceramic Coated T4 Exhaust Manifold w/Tial Wastegate
ETS Custom Intercooler 4" Thick Core, 3" inlet and outlet (12X24X4)
200 Amp Upgraded Alternator Denso Nippon Eagle Electronics
Custom Catch Can with Breather
Tony Brock - Polished and Clear Coated Valve Covers, Intake Manifold, Throttle Body, Waterneck, Turbo H Cover, Tensioner
PHR Upper Radiator Polished Pipe w/ Black Silicon Couplers
Modded Waterneck (extended) to accommodate Upper PHR Radiator pipe
Black Metallic w/Small Flakes Aristo 2JZGTE VVTI Spark Plug Cover
Black Metallic w/Small Flakes Lower Timing belt cover
TTC Performance Supra Brake Fluid Reservoir Cap, Supra Power Steering Reservoir Cap, Supra Oil Dipstick
Beech Motorsports Power Steering Reservoir with AN Fittings
SS Braided Powersteering Pressure Line with AN fittings adapters
Greddy Oil Cap
ARC Radiator Panel Shroud w/Tom's & Cusco Emblems w/ CF
AAC 2 Piece Fuse and ECU CF Cover
Passenger Side mini-Wire tuck

OEM SERVICE PARTS: Waterpump, Drivebelt Tensioner, PCV Hose front and rear, Front and Rear Main Seals, Engine Overhaul Gasket Set kit,


Injector Dynamics ID2000
Aeromotive 13101 Fuel Pressure Regulator w/Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Gauge
SRT Dual Fuel Pump Hanger
2 Deatschwerks DW300
Ross Machine Racing -8 Fuel Rail for 2JZGTE Fully Polished and Clear Coated by Tony Brock
Kinsler -8AN 10 Micron Fuel Filter E85 Compatible
ProEFI Flex Fuel Sensor & ProEFI Fuel Pressure Sensor

EMS & Electronics:

[ProEFI 128] w/IS300 Harness, ProEFI Can Cable, Wideband Sensor/Harness, 5 Bar MAP Sensor, iBoost Solenoid and Control Knob, E85 Flex Fuel sensor/harness and 6AN fittings, Fuel Pressure Sensor, Oil Pressure Sensor, Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor
ProEFI Color Can Gauge
DEFI EGT, Oil Pressure, Boost Gauge 2kPA
JDM Altezza RS200 Digital Display Cluster w/ 9K Tach - Dakota Digital SGI-5, SGI-8 and KM -> MPH Signal Conversion
XS Power S3400 w/ Billet Tie down Tray 573 & Trunk Battery Relocation
Stinger Distribution Block, Fuse, 0/1 Gauge wiring
JL Audio Battery Teminals
Full Security System

Transmission and Rear End

Getrag V160 Supra 6-Speed w/93.5-95 SUPRA SHORT SHIFTER
SRT Tripod, SRT V160 Transmission Mount, SRT Modified Shaft
TRD Transmission Mount MOUNT
AUTO --> MANUAL Supra V160 Retrofit w/ IS300 Clutch and Brake pedal retrofit
SUPRA TT Master and Slave Cylinders
Carbonetic Triple Plate Carbon Clutch System
Auto -> Manual means can start in Neutral --> Crank Walk Prevention

Rear End
GS400 Carrier Differential (For 3.266 Gear Ratio) (Painted and Cleaned w/New Seals)
Custom CNC Differential Plate Cover with Mounting Points
TRD Limited Slip Differential
Toyota Supra TT Halfshaft Axles
Tach Motor Works Custom Rear End IS300 Conversion for GS400 Differential with Chromoly Braces
Driveshaft Shop Custom Chromoly Driveshaft with Billet Adaptor plates


Custom KW Coilovers Variant 3 with Custom Spring Rates and FIGS Lower Solid Press in Bearing
Tanabe Front & Rear Red SUSTEC Underbrace
JIC Magic Strut Tower Bar
Cusco Rear CF Strut Tower Bar
PLP Trunk Brace
Eibach Front & Rear Sway Bars
FIGS Front and Rear Moto Endlinks
FIGS Powdercoated Red Crackle -- Rear MEGA LCA ARMS w/ Moto Rod End and Additional Gusseting
FIGS Powdercoated Red Crackle -- Rear MOTO Toe Links Set
FIGS Powdercoated Red Crackle -- Rear MOTO Trac Links Set
FIGS RCA HYSTEER Ride Height Neutral -> Stock Setting (For Bump Steer Correction)
FIGS STEERING RACK BUSHINGS #1 --- 2 bushings, 2 spacers per kit
FIGS STEERING RACK BUSHINGS #2 --- 1 Lower solid rest plus clam-shell urethane belt per kit
TOMS Rear Subframe Brace
TUNED PARTS - Custom Red Rear Subframe Rigid Bar Braces
ULTRA RACING - Fender Support Braces


E55 Bixenon Projector Retrofit w/ Highbeam Delete painted Sheen Black,
-----Tunedparts Led Halos w/Painted Boards
-----Fresnel Lense Replaced with ZKW-R Clear Lenses
-----PHILLIPS 85122CM 5300k Bulbs from Germany - D2S for low beams,
JDM Foglight Housings Painted Sheen Black w/Foglight Standalone Mod
-----Retrosolutions 55Watt HID Conversion kit w/ Harnesses and Bulbs
JDM Smoked Fender Side Markers
MMSPORT Black Chrome JDM taillights
-----V3 LED's
-----LED Turn Signal Light
-----Inner V3 LED's
Smoked Rear Bumper Lenses
Polarg Hyperwhite B1 License Plate Lights & Reverse Lights
Nigel's JDM LED Dome, Center Trunk Lights

Wheels and Braking

Axis Hiro Powdercoated Anthracite Front: 19x8.5 +45 offset & Rear: 19x9.5 +55 offset
StopTech Full Front and Rear Wheel BBK for 2.5" Lowering Cars includes:
-----StopTech 4 ST40 RED Brake Calipers
-----StopTech 355x32 Slotted & Zinc Coated Rotors
-----StopTech 4 SS Brake Lines
-----StopTech Street/Track Pads
Fragola Fittings and Lines for ABS Relocation w/SS Braided and Steel Brake lines
MOTUL RBF600 Brake Fluid
Hurst Line Lock Kit

Exterior Body

Black Mesh Altezza Front Grill
Version Select Front Bumper w/Custom Car Grill Matching Mesh
WALD Front and Rear Fender Flares
RMM Side Skirts
Carson Tuned Rear Lip
UGO Replica Roof Spoiler
Automotive Gold License Plate Covers (Front and Rear)
Tints: 30% all-around
S2k Stereo Antenna
Fully Painted Mirrors Side Mirrors
Factory Rear LED Spoiler
PIAA Super Sporza Black Wipers
Windshield Washer Sprayers Upgrade - 04-05
Carson Black Pearl Emblem Kit
Benen Tow Hooks Limited Edition Color
FIGS SS Hood Prop Kit
Laile Beatrush Aluminum Underbody Tray


AAC A/B/C Carbon Fiber Pillars
Custom Slanted Triple Gauge Pod by 2jzz
Valentine 1 Radar Kit with Concealer (Hardlined)
Full Silver Dash kit w/ Custom JDM Dash Silver Insert
Custom L-tuned Badge
Tuned Parts Illuminated Door Sills - Stainless Steel w/Amber Backlight
JDM Altezza RS200 Digital Gauge Cluster w/ Dakota Digital SGI-5, SGI-8, SVA Speed Corrector (KM->MPH)
JDM Double Din Dash kit
2003 Interior Door Panels with Chrome Ring Swapped
Chrome Interior Dials & Custom Silver Clock Trim from the UK
New OEM Interior Switch Panels
Redline Black 2.5" Shorter Calf Leather Shift Boot
TWM Gunmetal Weighted M1 Abrams Reverse Locking Shift Knob
H3R HG250C Fire Extinguisher Chrome with custom bracket
H3R BMF01P Polished Mount
H3R BB250P Polished Band Clamp


Pioneer AVIC-Z110BT w/HD Radio, Rear Camera, Ipod Wire, IR Receiver and Remote w/Z120 Upgraded OS
Focal 165 VR Components
Stereo Integrity MKIII Subwoofer wired at 8 Ohms
Custom Stereo Clarity MKIII sub Spare wheel box (Spare wheel still inside) & Stereo Clarity Deadened Baffles
Sundown Audio SAX-100.4D
Stinger Wiring

** All the things on this list are either on the car already or have been purchased to be installed. However, this list is not set in stone and may change here and there on the details as the build progresses. =) **


697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
..Hey guys, I wanted to introduce myself to Supraforums. My name is Hiral and i've had my IS300 since the day it came out :) I'd like to share my story with you guys, as I've learned a lot from Supraforums and I wanted to share my journey with you guys through this :)

This thread has been a long time coming for me. 10 Years ago in September 2000, I purchased my first car. Me and BigDaddyRich (Supra MKIV and MKIII owener) bought the 1st IS300's at Rallye Lexus in Glen Cove, NY. I was a fresh, admittedly naive & spoiled 17 year old that won a bet/bribe with my father to get straight A's in the 11th Grade of high school. Needless to say, I accomplished that feat and my dad fulfilled his end of the bargain and purchased me my first car. I was incredibly happy when I received the IS and it was my pride and joy throughout my Senior year of high school. It was an incredible car and I had waited 1 1/2 years of speculation through magazines and internet chatter on the forums. I was very young learning my way through knowing absolutely nothing about cars. I read, read, and read.... and, admittedly....not using the search button. I learned quickly the right ways to get the answers to my questions. :) Well, I learned quickly and started to mod my car with very simple mods. Tinted windows was my first mod and a grounding kit from TeCK IS300 that Avi (Gq IND) helped me install on my car (another OG). At the end of my Senior year in high school, I had decided to take a strong move and go to Medical school at my families alma mater. That school was in India. I was born and raised in NY and took the decision to go to India to get an education to make a life for myself. My car sat for 6 years sitting in my parents driveway. The IS would occasionally be started and driven once a month here and there... driven around town and thats about it. No one really drove it consistently. Even though I had been thousands of miles away, I still longed and missed that one of a kind feeling that only your first car can really give you. Throughout my schooling, whenever I had some downtime, I would sometimes peruse,, and Supraforums learning as much as I could about the mods people were doing and the style trends the IS was going through. My obsession with the Toyota Supra grew greatly during my time in India. I pretty much was obsessed and saw every supra video I could possibly find. Videos like Redline and the Big Supra Video had great impacts of my overall perception of the Supra. Its aura and legendary status were all to be respected. Since in my view, the IS300 is arguably considered to be a 4-door cousin of the Supra, I was infatuated with the possibility of boost. Players in the and game like the LEXOTIC crew were pushing boundaries that I respected and looked up to. When I returned back from completing school, I had come back with the vision to fulfill the goals that had been brewing during college for this car. And so starts.... my IS300 Build.

Car when I first bought it:


First Major purchase:
Got myself a set of great wheels from a great seller: MikedTRD

Ever since I can remember, i've ALWAYS loved the Axis Hiro's. By far my favorite wheel with a close second to the SSR SP1's. This is how it came when I first bought them :)

Front: 19x8.5 +45 offset w/ 235/35/19 BFGoodrich KDW's
Rear : 19x9.5 +55 offset w/ 265/30/19 BFGoodrich KDW's

I then went ahead and purchased a set of Eibach Prokit springs as these were supposed to only drop me an inch or so. I have no idea why, but my fronts dropped like 2.5 inches. I have NO IDEA WHY. To this day we dont know why.

I coupled them with the Bilstein HD's:

Personally for me, it was a rough ride for the nyc streets I was on... and I still rubbed when I had people in my car :T Rubbbbb Rubbbbb. It was driving me crazy....

697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
So I stepped it up: Really wanted to focus on Suspension supporting mods before I ever made it towards any type of power boost. To me, I always felt it was important to make sure your suspension can handle and balance your power--or at least try to get it as close as possible.
Stance GR+ Coillovers
Tanabe Front and Rear Underbraces
Eibach Sway Bars
Carson Tunedparts Black Subframe Braces
Painted Rear Calipers Red

I ordered the: Stance GR+ Coillovers

Along with the Tanabe Front and Rear Underbraces:




Purchased an HKS Dragger II exhaust and an SRT Black Intake. Had the Intake powdercoated black and the heat shield painted black.

Then some moron decides to hit my car when it was parked from the rear. Sigh.
Time to order a refresh of parts:
ROTORA 4 Piston BBK w/ Slotted Rotors and Stainless Brake Lines w/SuperATE Blue Brake Fluid
Carson Tuned rear Lip is in order.
RMM Front Lip
RMM Sideskirts
Altezza Front Mesh Grill
Carson Black Pearl Emblem Kit
UGO replica Roof Spoiler
S2K Stereo Antenna
Clear Front Lenses w/ PIAA Hyper White Bulbs
Hyperwhite B1 Bulbs for the turn Signals
6000K front Headlight Bulbs
Tanabe Touring Medalion
(HKS DraggerII was damaged in the hit)

Here is how it sits today :T


697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The Mod list as it sits today:


SRT INTAKE Powedrcoated Black w/ Heatshield Powdercoated Black w/SRT Race ECU
AAC CF Radiator Cooling Plate
FIGS Hood Prop Kit Stainless Steel Show kit
FIGS Battery Bar
TRD Oil Cap
Blitz Racing Radiator Cap – Type-2 D1 LOGO
Optima Red Top Battery
TecK Ground Kit Red
ALARM SECURITY SYSTEM with Shock Sensor ++++
Auto Window Up+Down Front Windows
Audio Glass Break Sensor
Digital Tilt Motion Sensor


JIC Magic Strut Tower Bar
Cusco Rear CF Strut Tower Bar
PLP Trunk Brace
Stance GR+ Coillovers w/ Rear Extensions
Eibach Front Sway Bars
Eibach Rear Sway Bars
New OEM Ball Joints at 90k
OEM Front Lower Control Arms at 90k
Ichiba 10mm Hubcentric Wheel Spacers (For stock winter wheels)
H&R 15mm Wheel Spacers (For stock winter wheels)


Axis Hiro Anthracite Staggered Setup
Front: 19x8.5 +45 offset w/ 235/35/19 BFGoodrich KDW's
Rear: 19x9.5 +55 offset w/ 265/30/19 BFGoodrich KDW's
Gorilla Locking Lug Nuts
Lexus Emblem Valve Caps
OEM Stock 17 inch Wheels Wrapped w/Dunlop Wintersport 3D


Rotora 4 Piston BBK
SS Brake Lines
Front Rotora Slotted Rotors
Rear Rotora Slotted Rotors
Rear G2 Red Caliper Paint


Tints: 30% all around
Black Mesh Altezza Front Grill
RMM Side Skirts
Carson Tuned Rear Lip
UGO Replica Roof Spoiler
S2k Stereo Antenna
Fully Painted Side Mirrors
Factory Rear LED Spoiler
PIAA Super Sporza Black Wipers


Satin Silver Dash Kit
Valentine 1 Radar Kit with Concealer (Hardlined)
Navigon 8100T (Hardlined W/ Custom Mount)
Vaistech SLI Ipod Connector kit w/Iphone3g Connector
New OEM Interior Switch Panels


Polarg B1 Hyperwhite Licence Plate Lights
Polarg B1 Hyperwhite Reverse Lights
Windshield Washer Sprayers Upgrade - 04-05
Black Pearl Emblem Kit
Painted Foglights Black
Retrofit Source 55 Watt 4300k HID KIT FOGS with Relay Harness
Clear OBX Front Side Markers w/ LED Bulbs
Smoked Rear Sidemarkers



And just looking back.... i realize. That was only the beginning.....




Here is how the motor looks current day:

So after driving for a while I noticed a sound coming from the engine bay that i knew didn't sound right. It sounded like metal - metal contact. At the time, I had no idea what that was and thought I'd get it checked out as soon as possible. Life was to busy for me at the moment and I just had no time to get it checked. What started off as a noise turned into a strained feel on the throttle. If i would press down on the throttle, it felt like the engine was straining to gain revs. At that time I thought that it could be something wrong with the exhaust possibly or that something somehow got stuck in there. Reason I thought that was because the car started sounding like an old 30 year old jalopy. Brah brah brah down the road it would sound and I couldn't figure it out. So I took it to my buddy at Tach Motor Works in Oceanside NY and he took a look at it. Mind you, i limped it over there as at this point it wouldn't rev past 3k rpms. Lucky (my tech) took a look at it and told me what he thought it could be and asked if i'd allow him to perform a compression check. I obliged and this is what he found.

At 113,000 Miles -

Clyinder 1 Compression - 20
Cylinder 2 Compression - 150
Cylinder 3 Compression - 160
Cylinder 4 Compression - 150
Cylinder 5 Compression - 40
Cylinder 6 Compression - 150

Cylinder 1 & 5 somehow lost compression and the sound I felt was coming from my exhaust was actually my catalyic convertor being destroyed because of what we determined the cause of this might be. I had an SRT intake on there for about 2 years and I had no idea, but one of the couplers and clamp was completely disconnected from the intake pipe. That coupler was after the MAF. So basically, the MAF was reading an Air Flow different from what was entering the motor and over time the catalytic converter died on me because I was running to rich.... We also believe that a valve had dropped and that there was serious trouble in the motor.

He pulled my spark plugs and found that the spark plugs have been slapped. Check out how the metal is bent:

At that point I was told that if this isn't taken care of soon, the motor will eventually quit on me and I risk damaging the rest of the motor. I knew this motor was done but I just didn't have the time at the moment to fix it so I drove it for another month and a half. Finally, after 10 years down to the MONTH, she quit on me.......

Here's how she ran when she was alive....


This is the car being towed back to my house.... It died on me on the way back to my home. It was a slow and agonizing death for it, I felt really bad. I definitely drove it till it truly died. Here's how it looked on the tow truck and the video for it being towed:

Always a challenge towing these dropped cars =')


The next step is a big point in this whole endeavor; Do I fix it, do I sell it, or do I fix and sell it.

I always loved this car. My family has had its share of different cars and still to this day this was my favorite one. I loved the IS, albeit a large part due to the fact that it was my first car, for its all it had to offer. I had to ask myself, do I want to keep the car that I put in so much work for... the dedication, the thought behind each and every single modification. I know the "Right" thing to do is fix it and sell it. Financially speaking thats the "right" way to do it. But since when are modding cars actually financially "right". Not too often. This is more of a dream fulfillment rather than a financial investment. This was and is my hobby and although I don't get any monetary compensation for an investment like this.... the smile from ear to ear on my face makes it all worth it.

So, I started to look at options on how to fix the car.

Now looking at the future, me, Lucky & Erkel at Tach Motor works, decided that it would most likely cost the same for me to fix this existing motor to its original NA spec as it would be do buy a Aristo GTE motor and swap it in. That way I would get a GTE Twin Turbo for the same price as fixing the car. To me, that sounded like a no brainer. So off I went and did the ordering. Called up Tiger Japanese and ordered the motor. About 10 days later,


221 Posts
Awesome thread Hiral!!! I'll be watching this one close!!! -- Feel free to grab picks from my facebook to load this thread up!

697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys, I appreciate the encouragement! I'm going to be posting more and more as the days go.... here's a little update:


I'm going to try to explain what went on in my head to show you how I deduced the choices I made for my setup. They may not be the choices some people would make, however I thought it maybe beneficial to people who want to know what might be involved in going to a boosted route. I realize that over the course of this, you'll realize that I have OCD and that I'm sure I went overboard... but sometimes thats just what makes things great

After we got the motor, me and the shop discussed different things that may need to be beefed up to support more power and strain on the car. One of the most important areas being the transmission. The car originally had a Automatic A650e Stock IS300 transmission. To be able to support the power I was looking to add, I needed to beef up the Valve Body and Sprag Gears. I looked up how much that would cost me and where I could get that done. However, the more I thought about it, the more I remembered that I've always wanted to go manual. I had the 2001 and they didn't release a stick version of the car until 2002. I would've gone manual had they offered it, but they didn't in 2001. So I crunched some numbers and did a ton of research and found out that there are a few options.
---A) W55, W58 --> Known to handle only moderate amounts of boost and really have to be babied to be able to handle the power.
---B) R154 -------> I have read great things about this transmission. It can handle quite a bit of power and has been used by lots of IS folk. However, from the reviews I read, some people love it and some people don't. There is also a limit that the transmission can take.
---C) V160/V161-> Being a MKIV supra fanatic, this is the holy grail of all transmissions. Its been proven time and time again and it has been known to hold over 1000hp. Cons are that it is pretty darn expensive.

It just so happened that Faulk2889 on was selling his V160 Auto to Manual Swap setup at the moment. Took a leap of faith and bam. I bought it. As a fellow NY'er, I picked it up from him and took it straight over to the shop.

The setup I purchased had the following:


282 Posts
Nice thread!

Good choice on the transmission setup. I went the cheaper route with a stock W55 but would love to have a Getrag 6speed transmission in the car, even wenn still N/A. Maybe, one day... :yum:

697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)

After the Transmission was settled, I then spoke to the boys and asked them what the power potential of this twin turbo motor is. Well, the internals are good for about 600-700whp but the twin turbos themselves are only good for possibly 500hp crank. Possibly. And at that you'd be maxing out your turbos.

Few more pics of the motor:

I kept on hearing it in my head: Do it right the first time. No short cuts. Go single now.

Turbo Choice
I knew I wanted to go single sometime....well, now is as good a time as any. Went and got the advice of my man Erkel (E-Spec Tuner) and asked him about turbo choices. He told me "If you want a response monster, go with the 6262. If you want a lot of power and it being upstairs on the band, go with the 6765"

I kept on hearing something else in my head: Go big or go home :)

As far as the wheel, its pretty much been proven that Billet is the way to go, so that's not even a question.

Journal vs Ballbearing.

I initially wanted to go all out with the Ballbearing.... but countless tuner reviews and user experience suggests that Ballbearing will only net you about 300 rpms or less better spool time and the difference in cost for a 6765 Billet Journal vs 6765 Billet BB was $800 bucks. I think i'll spend that money elsewhere :)

Exhaust Manifold. --> I've been seeing some great exhaust manifolds by fullrace, virtual works etc... but also so their super high price tag. Then, I saw the ETS stuff. I was shocked at seeing the high quality of exhaust manifold from ETS. ETS is becoming a huge force in the manifold and intercooler supply for high horsepower cars. Very high caliber products for a little bit less than the average (Full race manifolds are something like 2gs lol) So I went with the ETS Exhaust Manifold Ceramic Coated for Heat (T4) w/ Tial Wastegate

Here's how it looks on another manifold thats not coated

And here's how mine looks coated (with the wastegate tubing)

525 Posts
Simply awesome. Consider me subscribed!

Ticketing Ricers Evrywhre
1,485 Posts
Awesome build so far. Car is clean and the fact ur really researching out what u want and doing it right the first time is impressive. Kudos to u.

697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ahh, dammit. I dont think i'll make it. In fact, im sure i won't make it. Even if the full build goes to plan and quickly, I still won't have enough time to do the body work I want done. :T Plus, I'm still waiting on something thats on backorder till end of January :(

But there will be updates ... SOON!

697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Now I knew, looking at the condition of the motor I didn't want to take any chances. At this point, only god knows how the insides of the motor looked like and how old the motor truly it was. I decided i'm just going to do it RIGHT. The first time.

I told Lucky at Tach to disassemble the motor and go the whole 9 yards. Full motor build. Ordered a TON of parts through black friday and this is what I have going on :)


That's Nick doing the disassembling

As you can see, the motor was definitely not in good condition. Looking back on it, i'm so glad I decided to go all out. This does not look healthy at ALL. After they disassembled it and off it went to the machine shop for work.

Machine Shop Work to be Performed -

Main Block:
-----Hot Tanked
-----Deck Resurfaced
-----Line Hone
-----Bore and Hone (.20 Over)

------------Hot Tank

697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Someone on the forums pointed out that I could have just initially built the GE motor that died on me rather than purchase a new motor and build that one. This is true. But, to me that wasn't such a clear cut decision. That's why I tried to show my thought process throughout the whole situation. Originally, I was just going to drop in the new GTE motor as is with the twin turbo setup. However, I realized quickly that I wanted to go single. That was fine since we hadn't dropped the motor into the car already, however, taking a better look at the engine and the oil pan revealed that this motor was definitely older than what was indicated by the seller (25kmiles- Tiger Japanese). To me, there was no use in putting in an aging motor without a refresh... I didn't want to have to pull the motor back out within a year or two. Besides, its not like I could have returned the motor and then built the GE. To be honest, I paid only 1500 for the new motor and that really isn't that much. There are a few little benefits of moving over to the aristo motor from the GE, one being the fact that they come with oil squirters. With this build, I wanted to be thorough and rebuild the motor. I wanted to reinforce any weak points that we saw with stronger parts (ie; internals, arp bolts, etc etc...). I wanted a fresh new start on this car and i'm hoping it will last at least another 10 years (fingers crossed).
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