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First thing I noticed about these bad boys was the incredible quality in every detail. Every thing fit perfectly, although I did spend a day trying to find instructions in English. That said, they are easier to install than a normal spring/strut combo and the pictures in the manual explained most of the questionable items.
Things not covered (either in English or through pictures):
The bottom schrader valve is for the nitrogen, and I don't have much need to fool with that yet. The top adjustment is pretty intuitive -- clockwise makes the dampener stiffer, counterclockwise softens. The audible clicks are helpful in making sure all the dampeners are adjusted to the proper setting (no more painted dots like I have with the koni's on my mr2).
The adjustment for rebound and compression is simultaneous (you cannot independently change rebound or compression as I had been led to believe by the marketing). The ride height is changed pretty intuitively -- my only complaint is that you cannot change ride height without changing the preload on the spring (or vice versa -- you can't change preload without changing ride height)
Oh, there also is no second mount for the ABS front wheel speed sensor wires, so for the time being it is zip-tied to the shock body...
Weight difference:
2lbs lighter per corner than the "stock" front spring/strut assembly (not quite stock as two coils had been removed from each spring)
3lbs lighter per corner in the rear (compared to the factory shock assembly with one coil removed from the spring).
This weight difference does not include the TEMS actuators, and is despite the chromed steel body and included upper pillow-ball mount. Total unsprung weight savings is better than 10lbs (not bad, but I'm pretty sure Tein RA's are much lighter with an aluminum body).
First on-road impression: Wow these are quite the improvement over manually adjusted TEMS shocks and cut springs. The only thing I can compare it to is a newer BMW 3 or 5 series. Basically the car handles much better, without being harsh. The ride feels very solid without being rough. It seriously made me wonder how a car could handle so well without jarring my kidneys... That said, I do not believe these springs will be stiff enough in the long run. They seem just too soft for track and hard driving (I had heard similiar things from MKIV guys regarding their hipermax). Do not get me wrong, these things are awesome, but they do not make the drastic reduction in brake dive/ body roll that I would expect from coilovers. I still have some adjustment left in the dampeners, but ultimately I will change the springs (fortunately I know a guy who can make custom springs).
I still have not corner balanced the car because if these springs are like most others, they will settle within the next few weeks/1000 miles. I'll then do whatever corner weighting I can and have it re-aligned.
I will have pictures up later today. Unfortunately, the coilovers went in so easily I had to push my luck and install the goodridge lines as well. Everything was all gravy until I go to install the last line (passenger front). Somebody (probably whoever first installed it) overtightened the brake line to such an outrageous extent that the brass fitting took on a radical bell-shape on the very end. It physically will not fit inside the new line, so I get to experience the joy that is Pick-n-pull once more. If they don't have it, I'll grab a fitting from another toyota brake line, and hope that a shop can cut and re-flare my metal line...
****Things to keep in mind when reading my evaluation: I have an 87 hardtop with only a front strut tower bar. The car is ~600lbs lighter than stock, and my weight distribution has gone from the stock 52/48 to 54/46. I also run no front sway bar, although I will probably re-install it in the near future.
Things not covered (either in English or through pictures):
The bottom schrader valve is for the nitrogen, and I don't have much need to fool with that yet. The top adjustment is pretty intuitive -- clockwise makes the dampener stiffer, counterclockwise softens. The audible clicks are helpful in making sure all the dampeners are adjusted to the proper setting (no more painted dots like I have with the koni's on my mr2).
The adjustment for rebound and compression is simultaneous (you cannot independently change rebound or compression as I had been led to believe by the marketing). The ride height is changed pretty intuitively -- my only complaint is that you cannot change ride height without changing the preload on the spring (or vice versa -- you can't change preload without changing ride height)
Oh, there also is no second mount for the ABS front wheel speed sensor wires, so for the time being it is zip-tied to the shock body...
Weight difference:
2lbs lighter per corner than the "stock" front spring/strut assembly (not quite stock as two coils had been removed from each spring)
3lbs lighter per corner in the rear (compared to the factory shock assembly with one coil removed from the spring).
This weight difference does not include the TEMS actuators, and is despite the chromed steel body and included upper pillow-ball mount. Total unsprung weight savings is better than 10lbs (not bad, but I'm pretty sure Tein RA's are much lighter with an aluminum body).
First on-road impression: Wow these are quite the improvement over manually adjusted TEMS shocks and cut springs. The only thing I can compare it to is a newer BMW 3 or 5 series. Basically the car handles much better, without being harsh. The ride feels very solid without being rough. It seriously made me wonder how a car could handle so well without jarring my kidneys... That said, I do not believe these springs will be stiff enough in the long run. They seem just too soft for track and hard driving (I had heard similiar things from MKIV guys regarding their hipermax). Do not get me wrong, these things are awesome, but they do not make the drastic reduction in brake dive/ body roll that I would expect from coilovers. I still have some adjustment left in the dampeners, but ultimately I will change the springs (fortunately I know a guy who can make custom springs).
I still have not corner balanced the car because if these springs are like most others, they will settle within the next few weeks/1000 miles. I'll then do whatever corner weighting I can and have it re-aligned.
I will have pictures up later today. Unfortunately, the coilovers went in so easily I had to push my luck and install the goodridge lines as well. Everything was all gravy until I go to install the last line (passenger front). Somebody (probably whoever first installed it) overtightened the brake line to such an outrageous extent that the brass fitting took on a radical bell-shape on the very end. It physically will not fit inside the new line, so I get to experience the joy that is Pick-n-pull once more. If they don't have it, I'll grab a fitting from another toyota brake line, and hope that a shop can cut and re-flare my metal line...
****Things to keep in mind when reading my evaluation: I have an 87 hardtop with only a front strut tower bar. The car is ~600lbs lighter than stock, and my weight distribution has gone from the stock 52/48 to 54/46. I also run no front sway bar, although I will probably re-install it in the near future.
