I searched for a DLI install and couldnt find one. I think BLKMGK has one somewhere. This is my 3rd install and I thought I would take pictures this time and post the install FYI.
NOTES: Because we installed a used DLI, the 5 Yellow, and 1 White wires were way to short so I had to extend them. Unfortunately I did not have any Yellow wires to use, so I used Blue wires for the 5 Yellow wires, and used a Green wire for the White wire, which I used for the Green "Tach" signal wire.
The FSM shows that the Ignition Noise Filter has 2 wires; Brown which is Ground, and Brown/White for 12V Ignition. The car I worked on had this wire as Brown/Orange? Don't know if it was faded or what. As long as you DO NOT use the solid Brown wire. (There are only 2-can't go wrong)
To "insert" and solder the DLI wires into the Ignitor wires, take a sharp razor blade and cut a chunk of the wire shield away. Just enough so you can thread the DLI wires under and through. Then solder in place. I used a real small screw driver to get under the shield and "lift" up the bare wire enough so I could then slide the DLI wire through the "looped-up" Ignitor wire.
There are a total of 5 wires in the Ignitor harness that are Yellow, and one solid Green (Tach wire). This is where you install all of the DLI wires. DO NOT install and DLI wires on any other wires. It does not matter which one goes where, as long as the have some yellow stripe in them.
Man, I don't know if I want to go there Chris! lol! There is a lot of debate on what is the best way to make electrical connections. Huge debate a year ago on MKiV. It got so carried away, they were quoting "aircraft" installtion techniques on how to fasten 2 wires together. The long and short for me is the duability, vibration resistant, better continuity, and less harmfull to the wires themselves. A poor wire splice can actually "shear" the wire strands, causing loss of current flow. Its harder to remove, but the wire strands will all still be intact when you do remove the solder, with no worries of damaged strands from the splice.
The "Slack" of the Green Signal wire needed for when you go to the dyno, or need computer hook up. It needs to be long enough so they can "pull" it up and connect the sensor to it.
in blkmgk's writeup he used the top left wire on the other plug to get the 12 volt he said thats what hks's instructions say to use is there any diff? my light comes on but i cant tell any diff in spark ?
in blkmgk's writeup he used the top left wire on the other plug to get the 12 volt he said thats what hks's instructions say to use is there any diff? my light comes on but i cant tell any diff in spark ?
The "N1" Noise Filter 12V is the same as the "I2" Ignitor. They both make the same connections to the 12V Ignition source. I will have all the elctrical PDF.'s loaded up in my website in a few days.
Oh, and solder all the way!! I've worked on so many vehicles with crimped connectors on injectors and lights and when I solder them I never see the customer again for the same problem. Well so far that is.. :bigthumb:
I Just purchased a used DLI, the previous owner didn't have the harness so it was cut before the harness and hardwired. Without the harness I don't have the yellow wires to go by. The wires are; brown, white, orange, yellow, blue, green, red and black. I can guess that the red and black are power and ground and the others would translate to yellow. Can someone please confirm, I don't want to risk hooking it wrong.
I can only assume that the previous owner had somewhat of a clue. If so, the Blk/Red would be ground/power.........Green for the "tach" wire (Long looping green wire) and the others are the remaining 5 signal wires, and it doesnt matter which one goes to which wire.
I know I've seen a number of people asking how to get the damn cig lighter out without tearing it up, so I figured while I had it all apart I might as well take some pics of it all broken down. These photos show all the parts of the cig lighter, and how they all fit together correctly. Chances...
I believe as one car magazine editor once mentioned that the MKIV Supra will at some point be as rare and desirable as the Hemi Cuda is now. It is that generations car. If you look back at how long they (the engineers) took to perfect the entire design before releasing it it was something like...
Hey there I’m new to the forum but I have been reading a lot of the feeds through my build and it has helped me a lot, I am putting a 1jzgte VVTi believe it is a jzx100. I have been building this truck for the past 8 months and everything is done and ready to drive other then finishing custom...
Supra JZA80 RHD - A/T to 6 speed manual BMW E60 GS6-53DZ HGD Conversion
Hello
I've just converted my N/A 1994 A/T Supra to 6 speed manual from BMW E60 and wanted to share info with you. Everything done by me, except for driveshaft. Total cost - around $2200. Parts bought from local shops...
Hello all,
I recently imported a Supra and I'm in the process of replacing some rusted parts on the car. I noticed that the previous owner used some sort of twisted wire to fasten the exhaust to the support backet. This is near the very tail end of the exhaust near the tailpipe muffler.
My...
