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Thanks man, it really is a very nice unit :)
Especially if you also have the new HKS AFK and HKS turbo timer ... I have them :drool: .
 

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Luke (or anyone else) if you can help me out with some questions/problems i'm having with the EVC-S, it would awesome.

My car is set with BPU as well and i just installed the EVC-S . After fiddling with it, reading the instructions, and reading this entire thread i have came to a bump on the road and alittle confused.

It looks like the off set value is primarily used to set the desired boost (while using overboost to tweek). The confusing part is the Off Set value is in percentage, so what is it percentage of?

Looks like i am not able to boost higher than 13.9-14psi any way i change the settings. First i kept the Overboost at 3.0 and kept raising the Off Set until i got to 14psi (Off set was 70%). Since i wanted to get to 15psi i raised the Off set to 80% then even 90% but still couldnt get it any higher.

I started to raise the overboost but still got nothing more than 14psi (I set the Warning to 18psi just in case). Even bringing the offset to 70% and Overboost to 16psi, still kept getting the same result.

So anyone have any ideas what i'm doing wrong? My main head scratcher is what is the Off Set precentage of?

Man i had the EVC-5 and EVC-EZ for my past cars and this is the first boost controller i couldnt just SET the boost to a designated psi.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Luke (or anyone else) if you can help me out with some questions/problems i'm having with the EVC-S, it would awesome.

My car is set with BPU as well and i just installed the EVC-S . After fiddling with it, reading the instructions, and reading this entire thread i have came to a bump on the road and alittle confused.

It looks like the off set value is primarily used to set the desired boost (while using overboost to tweek). The confusing part is the Off Set value is in percentage, so what is it percentage of?

Looks like i am not able to boost higher than 13.9-14psi any way i change the settings. First i kept the Overboost at 3.0 and kept raising the Off Set until i got to 14psi (Off set was 70%). Since i wanted to get to 15psi i raised the Off set to 80% then even 90% but still couldnt get it any higher.

I started to raise the overboost but still got nothing more than 14psi (I set the Warning to 18psi just in case). Even bringing the offset to 70% and Overboost to 16psi, still kept getting the same result.

So anyone have any ideas what i'm doing wrong? My main head scratcher is what is the Off Set precentage of?

Man i had the EVC-5 and EVC-EZ for my past cars and this is the first boost controller i couldnt just SET the boost to a designated psi.
Just to get this out of the way, but you do have a Boost-Cut-Controller installed right?

Secondly i'm noticing that you are running fairly low boost for a BPU supra, usually with BPU mods supras boost around 14-15psi minimum, but can boost up to 18-19psi without any type of boostcontroller. What BPU mods do you have? (downpipe, intake, front-mount-intercooler, etc?)

Finally, since the car is not reacting / raising boost with your setting changes, i'd advise you to check how everything is hooked up. I've never hooked up a boostcontroller to a stock twins setup, but if i'm not mistaken, you will hook it up to the vacuumline going to the front turbo actuator (one closest to the nose of the car). What you will be doing is using the EVC-S to bleed off a bit of airpressure going to this actuator. This will mean it takes more boost to push the internal wastegate open, thus the turbo's will boost higher.

In the EVC-S manual /diagrams this is designated as a SWING type wastegate. Did you hook it up likewise?

Luke.

btw, offset (0-100%) is the percentage that the solenoid port (that came with the evc-s) opens.

Now, there are two ways to hook-up the solenoid. One will make it bleed off air pressure to the atmosphere (this is what you would need) and the other will use air to provide counterpressure to the wastegate.

In your situation, it will take 11psi (stock setup) to open the wastegate and this is the boost a stock supra runs. When you put the EVC solenoid inbetween, you will be bleeding off air pressure so more of it is needed to open the wastegate.
Example, You boost 11psi stock, now you hookup the EVC-s and set the offset at 50%, this means you will bleed off half of the stock pressure (5.5psi) so your car should now boost 16.5psi. (compensating the air leak it has)

If you have an aftermarket wastegate (called a poppet-valve in the EVC-S manual) You will not bleed off this airpressure to the atmosphere, but re-route it to the top of the wastegate. It will function as counterpressure. Your spring would take say 10psi to open, and you apply 50% of your boost (offset value) to the top of the wastegate as extra pressure it needs to overcame, thus the boost would equal 15psi.
 

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okay digging up this thread, i've got one of these ebcs installed on my rx7 (internal wastegate) and all i had to do was change the "overboost" value to what boost pressure i wanted to run and the warning to what i wanted the warning at.

now i have two friends who have mk4 supras (both single turbo with external gates) and both of them cant get this controller to hold decent boost. the main one that i am working on cannot hold pressure above wastegate spring pressure. it spikes to whatever you set the "overboost" value at then drops back to wastegate pressure.

any ideas?
thanks,
Brad.
 

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also, if we connect the output of the solenoid (the line that usually goes to the top of the wastegate) to a boost gauge as you done, what pressure (read on the gauge) should we be chasing to achieve 15psi on a 10psi spring? 5psi? as i understand however much pressure you add to the top port of the wastegate is how much you will increase the boost pressure over the spring pressure correct?

thanks,
Brad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
^ Hey Brad,

Good thing you hooked up the solenoid to a boostgauge, easy and safe way to test settings, i had done the same thing on my car.

If you have a 10psi wastegate spring, and i does indeed boost exactly 10psi with it, then yes, 5psi from your solenoid, will raise the boost to 15psi total. Like you said, you add this extra 5psi to the top port of the wastegate and this creates extra resistance that the wastegate needs to overcome before it can open, thus the car will run higher boost.

It seems (from your story) that your problems are originating at the "OVERBOOST" value.

Try this,

Set your WARNING at whatever you want your maximum boost to be and add a 100% DROPVALUE, so it falls completely back to wastegate spring pressure if it is triggered.

Set your RESPONCE to 0. This value is used to get the turbo to spool quicker, a variable you should set once everything works. (finetuning at the end)

Set your OVERBOOST to 0. I believe this value tries to determine the strength of your wastegate spring so the controller can predict how fast the car is going to spool and how fast it is going to have to respond once it starts building boost. (make sense?) Default is 11.6psi, i have mine set at 3.0psi (on a 10psi wastegate spring), seems to need different values for different cars. But at the default 11.6 my car went pretty spiky crazy when boost came on as well.

With the above two at zero, start upping the OFFSET by 5 or 10% at a time, taking note on your boostgauge of what is happening / how much the boost is increasing. This should yield results and steady boost across the rev range. (ofcourse assuming everything is hooked up correctly solenoid wise). Once you've got results with this, you can start upping OVERBOOST by 1psi at a time, taking note of when the car (on your boostgauge readout testsetup) goes crazy again, and set it below that value. Mine goes crazy / starts spiking at a 5psi OVERBOOST value, so i went back down to 3psi to remain safe and left it there.

Good luck!

Luke.
 

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luke i used a pressure setup to test my evc-s on my car (fd rx7 with internal wg) and tried multiple settings and then just before giving up i thought i would try default settings. found that the wastegate opened at 11.6 but the warning also went off. i tried increasing the warning and leaving the overboost the same, still opened at 11.6 and the warning didnt go off. but anyway thats for an internal gate. we were doing some boost run tests the other day (in the white supra) monitoring the output (out of the solenoid) and found that it was exactly what i set the overboost setting at.

after this i told the other supra (black one, sorry for being so confusing haha) to reset the settings to default (10 offset, 20 response, 11.6 ovb, 11.6 wrn, 100 drop) and to set the overboost at 15 and warning at 16 and low and behold the car ran at 15psi. just needs some slight adjusting to make the boost hold a bit steadier. i will get the exact details of what settings they have and get some videos of how the boost holds over the weekend :).

Brad.
 

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Hate to clutter up your review thread with more posts but I can't seem to resolve my issues with this boost controller. On a stock twins supra I cannot get more than stock 11ish psi no matter what combination of offset and overboost I input into this controller. If you look at my thread HERE you can see how I have the boost controller hooked up. Do you see any reason why I can't get the controller to boost anything over stock pressure? Also you mentioned hooking the boost gauge up to the solenoid itself. How would I go about doing that with the controller set up as a swing type, and not a poppet?
Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Hey Mike,

This setup seems to be correct for the stock setup (swing type)



What we are doing here is making an airpressure feed going into the center NO port and pass it through and out of the COM port to the actuator opening the wastegate.

When we now use the OFFSET function, a valve will move within the solenoid which will create an air leak, allowing air to leak out of the NC side port. (be sure not to cap off this 'unused' NC side port, i.e. remove the plastic cap that comes on it from factory). Example, when you put in a 20% OFFSET, the valve will open 20% of the way, creating a (just making stuff up here) 4psi airleak. Your turbo will now boost the stock 11psi + need to compensate for the 4psi airleak, bringing the total boost to 15psi.

IF YOU WANT to hookup a boostgauge;

Since it only comes with two nipples (to connect to the com, nc, and no ports) you cannot test it with a boostgauge, unless you hook it up like an aftermarket wastegate setup. (since the swingtype bleeds off boost and there is no line on the port that is bleeding air, so you cannot measure how much it is bleeding)

To do this, you'll have to revert your vacuumsystem back to stock (or at least so that the wastegate opens like stock at 11psi). Now hook it up like a POPPET type wastegate. (get a vacuumsource into the side NC port, and a line coming out of the side COM port. Put the line coming out of the COM port into the boostgauge. Set it at say 50% offset and do a pull, it should read around 5psi on the boostgauge constant during the pull. What we are doing here is this. Once your car boosts, boostpressure is pressing on the line and is stopped by the side NC port. Your 50% OFFSET opens the valve in the solenoid half way, letting air through, which will be pushed out of the COM port. At the stock 11psi, 50% OFFSET will be around 5psi getting through and give you that readout on the boostgauge. You can now see and test the working of the EVC. If this works, the evc-s works and hooking it up the other way (swing type) will make it bleed off boost.

The testsetup will be your best bet i guess, cause you can safely test without risking dangerous overboosts on your car if the setup is faulty. If the testing like the POPPET type yields say a 4psi at 20% offset, then i guess it will bleed 4psi at that same 20% offset when hooked up like a SWING type. But as always, i recommend starting low and safe once hooked up for real. (go from 5, 10, 15, 20% offset just to be sure, even though your testing might have indicated around 20%).

Hope this helps.

Luke.
 

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no chance to get vids yet as work has been super busy 6 days a week. but both supras are holding boost pretty dam well atm. the rx7 i have no idea however as i have no boost gauge lol. luckily i just ordered a nice defi advamce cr today so when the car is back together i'll test out my config settings. (for the record i found you just leave the stock settings and set the overboost to desired boost level and the warning too.)

brad.
 

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Luke,

I went and put all the vacuum lines back to stock configuration and set the boost controller up like a poppet type wastegate. I took the vacuum source I've been using for my boost gauge (same source recommended on MKIV.com for their boost gauge install) and plugged that vacuum source into the NC port. I then hooked the unused line going to my boost gauge to the COM port. This is correct right? So after I hooked it up like above, I did some pulls with offsets ranging from 10-100% and overboost settings from 1-36 psi, still my boost gauge stayed at 0 psi. Seems like the solenoid doesn't want to open which seems like the problem I was having when it was set up as a swing type wastegate. Set up as a swing type, the boost source entered the NO port, the solenoid wouldn't open and vent through the NC port so the wastegate always saw 11 psi. Seems to be the same situation here (set up as a poppet type) the solenoid never opens up thus no pressure can get through the NC port and out the COM port. Do you know of anything I can do to trouble shoot this thing further? Main issue here seem that the solenoid will not open up. At say 50% offset should I see 5 psi no matter what overboost setting I have?

Also, is the boost sensor just there to convert your source boost pressure into the digital output on the controller. Wasn't sure if this pressure was used as a reference of some sort for the actual solenoid. Since I have the boost sensor hooked into the same line as my boost gauge the digital output on the EVC-S always reads 0 psi too while testing like a poppet valve. Thanks for the help so far.

-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Luke,

I went and put all the vacuum lines back to stock configuration and set the boost controller up like a poppet type wastegate. I took the vacuum source I've been using for my boost gauge (same source recommended on MKIV.com for their boost gauge install) and plugged that vacuum source into the NC port. I then hooked the unused line going to my boost gauge to the COM port. This is correct right?

...

At say 50% offset should I see 5 psi no matter what overboost setting I have?
This is hooked up correct.

At 0 OFFSET, all the air coming into the NC port would vent out the center NO port.

If you add say 50% OFFSET, the solenoid should open halfway, letting something like 5psi (as you mentioned) through and out the COM port, which should give you a 5psi readout on your boostgauge.

Even if setting OVERBOOST at 0, you should get a readout if OFFSET is higher then 0

Luke,

Also, is the boost sensor just there to convert your source boost pressure into the digital output on the controller. Wasn't sure if this pressure was used as a reference of some sort for the actual solenoid. Since I have the boost sensor hooked into the same line as my boost gauge the digital output on the EVC-S always reads 0 psi too while testing like a poppet valve. Thanks for the help so far.

-Mike
I would think that a OFFSET of 50% (example) would open the solenoid 50% of the way regardless if the boostsensor is hooked up. You'd think that would just be mechanics working there.

On the other hand, aside from the obviously digital readout, i'm also pretty sure the EVC uses the boostsensor to figure out the at least the RESPONCE setting. Plus it uses it to detect the WARNING setting.

For troubleshooting it would be nice i guess to have it hooked up to a direct vacuumsource to rule it out as a problem.

Do you know of anything I can do to trouble shoot this thing further?
One more thing yes;

Your solenoid has two wires (leading into a connector) coming out of it. This is simply POWER and GROUND. The EVC controls how far it opens by varying the amount of volts it sends to the solenoid.

ie. 12v is fully open, 0v is fully closed, etc...

Disconnect this and get some scrap electrical car wires.

Put a wire from the reddish one to the + of the car battery
and a wire from the black one, but keeps this disconnected at the battery negative end.

With the car turned off, your battery should produce 11.8volts.

For a brief second, tap the wire from the black one against the negative of the battery. This will give the solenoid a power circuit and at full 11.8 volts, it should click/snap fully open as the circuit is made and shut again when the circuit is broken. (you can really hear this, it should be normally 'loud')

I had a second person helping me on this test, holding the wires in the connector coming from the solenoid, while i did the battery end.

(i did this when i too was convinced it didn't work on my car. It doesn't seem to me this test can do any damage and it still works fine on my car after, but still, at your own risk, be careful, i only did it for a brief sec.)

This should confirm / rule out the solenoid as a problem and progress our troubleshooting.

Luke.
 

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I went ahead and connect the solenoid to the battery as you said and you could definitely hear the clicking of the valve. So it looks like the solenoid functions. What would you suggest the next thing to do is?
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Running out of idea's really.
It could be that the solenoid was stuck and needed the power surge to break loose, either way, we know it is working now.

I'm assuming the car is still in the test setup with the boostgauge, i can only say give it one more go and see if it will give you a reading on the boostgauge. It has to work. Be sure to also have the boostsensor hooked up and working so the EVC displays vacuum/boost. Since it opens the solenoid with volts, i might never have triggered to open, since you saw only 0psi on the gauge constantly, keeping it inactive.

Luke.
 

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If I were to tap into the wires going to the solenoid would setting different offset on the controller yield a different voltage on a multimeter? Say 0% offset would equal 0 volts and 100% offset would equal 12v? Or does the voltage start at 0v and gradually raises the voltage as boost increases? Not sure if you would even know that information, but I'm trying to get a better idea of how the solenoid actually operates.

Should I be using a different boost sensor source other than the same source as my boost gauge? The set up I've been running has the boost sensor T'd off my boost gauge line.

-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
If I were to tap into the wires going to the solenoid would setting different offset on the controller yield a different voltage on a multimeter? Say 0% offset would equal 0 volts and 100% offset would equal 12v? Or does the voltage start at 0v and gradually raises the voltage as boost increases? Not sure if you would even know that information, but I'm trying to get a better idea of how the solenoid actually operates.

Should I be using a different boost sensor source other than the same source as my boost gauge? The set up I've been running has the boost sensor T'd off my boost gauge line.

-Mike
I cannot say, i'm just working off of my own experience / gathered knowledge.
Your idea is clever, but it could also be that the EVC doesn't start changing the voltage until it sees positive boost. (for example)

Your boostsource should be fine. So then it should be working / making the EVC give a digital boost readout, right?

Does really suck, i know when mine didn't work i was trying to contact HKS themselves, but without any luck.

Luke.
 

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Alright Luke, looks like I've made some progress with this situation here. I un-T'd the boost sensor from the boost gauge line. This enabled the boost sensor to input a boost signal into the evc-s while I could watch the output of the solenoid(COM port) with my boost gauge. The way I had it set up before, the boost sensor was T'd into the same line as the boost gauge and since the boost line was attached to the COM port the boost sensor never saw boost because the solenoid never opened.

The setup now has a boost source T'd into the NC port and the boost sensor with the boost gauge being the only thing attached to the COM port. Now with this set up im seeing pressure on my boost gauge at open throttle. Before it would stay at 0 psi at all times. So now it looks like I'm getting the solenoid to open and let some pressure through.

My question now is at 50% offset I build about 5 lbs of boost as seen on my boost gauge that is connected to the COM port. However once it hits about 5 psi the boost gauge goes crazy and bounces pack and forth from 0psi to 5+psia very rapidly like the valve is opening and shutting very quickly. Is this normal or what? I would assume once it hit 5 psi it would just hold there until I let off the throttle.

I also tested the warning setting by setting the warning at 8 psi and drop to 100% and then did some pulls. My my boost gauge would start showing boost but once the boost sensor hit 8 psi the boost gauge would drop to 0psi since its hooked to the COM port and the warning fuction had closed the solenoid.

If you say when you tested the solenoid you didnt have the boost gauge needle jump back forth like crazy once the offset value was hit, I'll probly try a few more pulls and see if i can figure out the problem. After that I'll hook it back up the swing type way and see if i still can't get this controller to work on the stock twins.
Thanks for all the help so far.

-Mike
 
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