Supra Forums banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok i need to pick up this red supra next week, but I am not sure how to get it out of here. the van also haven't ran in 2 years. Ofc i can't start the car so I can turn the wheel. I thought about wheel rollies but I heard they break easily and they are 400$ on amazon
any suggestions?
262557
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,926 Posts
Keys in the ignition allow the steering wheel to move, just need to put your arms to work without the PS. Brakes should work too (check that the brakes work BEFORE trying to roll it anywhere!)

I'd bring an air compressor or some other method of inflating the tires. Push the van forward and out of the way so the Supra can get around it, Push the van back into the spot where the Supra was.

I'll be honest, you'll soon be a pro at pushing around disabled vehicles if you're working on old Japanese cars like the MKIII.
 
  • Like
Reactions: aaronc222

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Keys in the ignition allow the steering wheel to move, just need to put your arms to work without the PS. Brakes should work too (check that the brakes work BEFORE trying to roll it anywhere!)

I'd bring an air compressor or some other method of inflating the tires. Push the van forward and out of the way so the Supra can get around it, Push the van back into the spot where the Supra was.

I'll be honest, you'll soon be a pro at pushing around disabled vehicles if you're working on old Japanese cars like the MKIII.
wait so all I need is to put the keys in ignition to turn the steering wheel? Also is that gonna harm the engine. i 've heard that you can do that before doing some stuff like change the oil and the gas
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
541 Posts
Key in the ignition just to unlock the steering wheel without the car running. You'll be able to turn it manually. Definitely check the brakes as stated above, they could also be seized. If juggling things around won't work you a decent tow truck driver can do it easy, and if you have a plan you can maybe get them to do it through it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
wait so all I need is to put the keys in ignition to turn the steering wheel? Also is that gonna harm the engine. i 've heard that you can do that before doing some stuff like change the oil and the gas
Oh boy! This is going to be fun. Is it a manual or automatic? If it's an automatic and you are transporting it on a dolly then you should disconnect the drive shaft. If it's a stick, you just put it in neutral. As for pushing around the driveway, you just unlock the steering column lock (with the ignition key) and push. You're not going to start it, so the oil and gas don't come into play. You might take a friend or two.

At my garage, when I was keeping the car inside 99% of the time, and just rolling it straight out to work on it, I wasn't strong enough to push it back in alone, so I mounted the cheapest Harbor Freight Wench on the floor (in the cement) at the back of my garage. I use the car battery, out of the car, on a permanent trickle charger, to pull the car back inside. I changed the metal cable that came with the wench to a nylon one... and be sure to tie it low enough that it doesn't rip off your bumpers... like, put it around the axle housing.

It works like a charm to pull the car back inside.

Good luck!

UPDATE: You could get that wench now, and mount it to your car with a couple of holes and bolts, and use it to pull the car out of the driveway now, too. Just an idea if you don't have friends handy to help. It's like $50. at HF.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oh boy! This is going to be fun. Is it a manual or automatic? If it's an automatic and you are transporting it on a dolly then you should disconnect the drive shaft. If it's a stick, you just put it in neutral. As for pushing around the driveway, you just unlock the steering column lock (with the ignition key) and push. You're not going to start it, so the oil and gas don't come into play. You might take a friend or two.

At my garage, when I was keeping the car inside 99% of the time, and just rolling it straight out to work on it, I wasn't strong enough to push it back in alone, so I mounted the cheapest Harbor Freight Wench on the floor (in the cement) at the back of my garage. I use the car battery, out of the car, on a permanent trickle charger, to pull the car back inside. I changed the metal cable that came with the wench to a nylon one... and be sure to tie it low enough that it doesn't rip off your bumpers... like, put it around the axle housing.

It works like a charm to pull the car back inside.

Good luck!

UPDATE: You could get that wench now, and mount it to your car with a couple of holes and bolts, and use it to pull the car out of the driveway now, too. Just an idea if you don't have friends handy to help. It's like $50. at HF.
hey, why I just cant put the auto in manual. also why would I disconnect the drive shaft?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
hey, why I just cant put the auto in manual. also why would I disconnect the drive shaft?
For pushing out of the driveway, yes, just put the automatic in neutral. For towing the recommended procedure is to disconnect the drive shaft. Either that or tow with the rear wheels in the dolly and the steering wheel tied securely. That just sounds dangerous to me.
 

·
Registered
1987 MK3 Supra Non-Turbo (Getting 2JZ-GE Swapped)
Joined
·
27 Posts
hey, why I just cant put the auto in manual. also why would I disconnect the drive shaft?
I think he means if you are transporting the car to whatever final destination on a dolly, once you get it out of the driveway, then disconnect the driveshaft. If you don't disconnect it, you can fuck up the auto trans pretty damn bad, like blowing seals and dumping all the fluid out bad. The one thing I would see if you could do, is get one of those U-Haul full size car transporters. I paid about 300$ US for a Truck + Transporter for 350 miles of driving (Seattle to Portland). Harbor Freight also sells wheel dollies for about 20~25$ a piece, that will make it 1000x easier.
EDIT: I should have clarified this more, but I'm talking about the transporters that aren't just the front wheels. One of these.
262562
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
I think he means if you are transporting the car to whatever final destination on a dolly, once you get it out of the driveway, then disconnect the driveshaft. If you don't disconnect it, you can fuck up the auto trans pretty damn bad, like blowing seals and dumping all the fluid out bad. The one thing I would see if you could do, is get one of those U-Haul full size car transporters. I paid about 300$ US for a Truck + Transporter for 350 miles of driving (Seattle to Portland). Harbor Freight also sells wheel dollies for about 20~25$ a piece, that will make it 1000x easier.
Don’t confuse the u-haul dolly with the HF dolly. They’re for two different purposes. The HF ones are a great idea, but you need to take them apart and pack them with grease before they are usable. You’d also need a decent jack to get them under each wheel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I think he means if you are transporting the car to whatever final destination on a dolly, once you get it out of the driveway, then disconnect the driveshaft. If you don't disconnect it, you can fuck up the auto trans pretty damn bad, like blowing seals and dumping all the fluid out bad. The one thing I would see if you could do, is get one of those U-Haul full size car transporters. I paid about 300$ US for a Truck + Transporter for 350 miles of driving (Seattle to Portland). Harbor Freight also sells wheel dollies for about 20~25$ a piece, that will make it 1000x easier.
EDIT: I should have clarified this more, but I'm talking about the transporters that aren't just the front wheels. One of these.
View attachment 262562
ohhhh ok, nah ima just push it to my house
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top