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Discussion Starter #1
my sup just develop a rod knock... its not loud but its notisable...


anyways how much willit cost to fix this? and can i doit my self?(some mechanical experrience)

but i can get my friends dad to helpme if its that big..

thanks


also i notice that when im in gear and i letgoof the gas pedal andstep on it again i hear a pop... im guesing backfire? how do i fix this to?
 

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Ex MKIV Owner
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I'm no expert but rodknock is very expensive to fix...I'm guessing buying a new engine would probably be cheaper.
 

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If you haven't damaged the crank journal or rod you can change the bearings with the motor still in the car, just pull the pan.
 

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No One Ever Listens To Me
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Clifton said:
If you haven't damaged the crank journal or rod you can change the bearings with the motor still in the car, just pull the pan.

i dont know what the rest of you are assuming...but this guy is on the right track...

expense of fixing rodknock is relative to how bad it is...

for example i had as light rod knock and immediately had the car towed to where i could pull the engine and check it out... a simple $200 later ($100 in bearings, $25 to polish crank, $75 misc fluids and gaskets etc..) and my car was good to go again....

your best bet is to pull the engine and check out the damage....i wouldnt suggest trying to drop the pan because frankly its a billion times easier to just pull the engine out....
 

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you can, but the subframe has to come out, and you have to use a cherry picker to support the engine anyway (since the engine mounts are on the subframe)
 

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My name's Scruffy.
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it might not even be worth fixing. depending how loud it is and everything...i'd say just get a new motor
 

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I am doing it right now its 500$ if you do all the work yourself and get the crank taken .010 under and get .010 over bearings. Trust me if you can take it apart yourself youll do it in a week.

Dave

dont buy a new engine that BS do the work while your in there youll learn some stuff PM me for some direction if you want. rod knock comes from many different things but if your engine was stock and has never been taken apart just watch if you dont get your crank taken down then youll have to make sure you line your rod caps and bearings up properly and buy the proper bearings from toyota as per the TSRM. There are 5 different sizes based on the rod cap number and number stamped into the crank if you dont understand page 70 in the EM section of the TSRM
 
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I took apart a member's GTE block that had rod knock.
That crank had quite some metal grinded off of it.
You MAY need to source another crank in your case.
Also the connecting rod was junk.
So you may need a new connecting rod.

The block I took apart had lots of metal shaving inside of it.
So you may need to buy another oil pump if it cant be cleaned out.
Those shavings would have to all come out from every oil channel there is.

Rod knock is probably the most expensive thing to fix next to a bad chassis or multiple rust repair on the body.

Getting a JDM motor may be the cheapest way to go. Many will tell you the same also. But JDM motors do vary in price & since you did not provide a location (you have "somewhere" under your name), I cant recommend a seller for you as I dont know where you are.

If you are going to use your own crank, you MUST have it mic'd. If there has been material worn off of it, it MUST be cut & new undersized bearings are to be used.
 

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Tony Mawad is the man good post but we need to know how bad it is. I got mine ~2 to 5 km after it started and there was no scoring to the crank or bearings so its just a simple fix, well simple from the stand point that you get the crank and rods checked and maby taken down all new bearings and put it back together. HPfreack mk3 youve gotta take it apart to see the damage
 
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stallion said:
Tony Mawad is the man good post but we need to know how bad it is. I got mine ~2 to 5 km after it started and there was no scoring to the crank or bearings so its just a simple fix, well simple from the stand point that you get the crank and rods checked and maby taken down all new bearings and put it back together. HPfreack mk3 youve gotta take it apart to see the damage
I am NOT worthy of being called "the man." I'll never be the man in any Supra gathering either. That won't be my role. But thanks for the courtesy I guess. heh

Anyways, I was replying as to how expensive it could be, & I did use "may" in my post 4 times to show how expensive it could be.
Good post on your part too, stallion.

HPfreack mk3,
At worst it could be as I described, at best it would be the way stallion described.

I would pull the whole motor out. If things get ugly and you find that you need a crank, & a connecting rod, & MAYBE an oil pump (not 100% sure it can be all cleaned out), you just drop in a JDM motor. If you take the pan out & all that has to do with that IN the engine bay, & then find things ugly, you would have to remove the motor anyways. IMO, don't create more work than you have to by disassembling the oil pan. It is not so easy to take our oil pans as it is on other cars.
 

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rod knocks are challenging to fix to say the least..makes a good project for you and ur buddies tho..its just a few bearings ..you might wanna replace the main bearings too just to be safe. its not that expensive but it will cost you alot of time and effort if the problem is just a rod bearing. that may not be the case but it was with mine so just lettin ya know from my experience.

kenny
 

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Discussion Starter #16
well based on the sound that hear inside the car(with everything closed) it sound like someone using a coin and taping on the block but not to loud.


anyways a friend of mine has an 7mgte engine block but it has a blown head. but he got it off a part car so hes not sure if BHG is the only thing thats wrong with it. would you guys recomend rebuilding that engine or rebuild mine? or would you guys recomend that i import a gte? (assuming that the rod knock in my car is the worse case)
 

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you dont just import a 7M and "drop it in" You have to check the engine and if the compression check is okay and the coolant doesnt contain any combustion gasses and you "think" the bottom end is good and the car hasnt had the crap kicked out of it in Japan , which is what they do there, and all these things are perfect you may have a chance at an unrebuilt JDM engine working.
 

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Not so boring anymore
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Thermactor said:
As much as a full rebuild would cost, if you want to do it right.
+1
 

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TOO broke MK3
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Thermactor said:
As much as a full rebuild would cost, if you want to do it right.

:wtflol:

some people just read the topic and thats it... :rolleyes: not even taken the time to read other peoples responce...

anyways.

im with IdealSupra on this one. dont spend big bux on something that can be fix easily(well less cost anyways).

remember always start out by eliminating small stuff... no point of doing a full rebuilt when you dont need to...

JMO
 
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