Supra Forums banner
1 - 20 of 47 Posts

· THE LAST NA
Joined
·
1,424 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am filling my 1989 n/a supra automatic with r-134a in the 12/ounce refill.....i put three 12 ounce bottles in + 3 ounces of compressed oil......I did not convert this time it was already done 8+ years ago....

recharging was very difficult becuase of the small hose line not reaching the a/c compressor.....the instructions say to have the oil can upside down .......as for the freon, the freon can instructions said to cycle between holding the can at 12oclock-and 3oclock... The 4 cans had to rest inbetween alternator and the fusebox ......

(Keeping the can hot helps speed the process after you tapped into the freon bottleBecuase of the reduced space , I was unable to submerse the a/c cans in hotwater ,so i I used hot towels to keep the can warm when it was tapped. )...

my a/c works right now.....you can feel it kick in when it is engaged, but i think it could be a little better

and another problem i experience...it felt like the last 10% of the 3 recharge cans would not empty completey into the car....

My question is: Are 3 bottle enuff?
 

· Banned
Joined
·
5,915 Posts
You'll need about 30 cans.
























Seriously, adding too much will fuck you compressor up and cause your lines to start leaking. I suggest taking the car to Toyota and let them recover and charge your AC system.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
737 Posts
I did mine not to long ago and I remember it didn't take all of it from the cans I put in. I don't remember the amount though sorry.
 

· Banned
Joined
·
5,915 Posts
^^

werd



Paying $70 to recharge your system is better than paying the cost to replace a compressor and or lines.

They will also inject a dye in the system so you'll know if there is a leak.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6,153 Posts
If the system was already empty, you could do it yourself and have some really nice guages to keep for future use, for $70. The other problem you will have now, is that no one will want to recover your freon, 'cause of the retrofit. They don't know what you have and how it was done, or if other contamnants are in the freon, etc.

They told me that even though I could leave the car for them to "recover" what's in there, they would likely vent to the atmosphere anyways, so as to not contaminate their stuff. Good luck with this.



I followed this guide, along with other info from the threads above and am extremely happy with mine. Not an A/C professional, but can follow instructions (sometimes). I am still missing a R134 conversion sticker and am ordering today.

http://supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44138

As far as recharging/filling quantity, one of the 2 threads linked in one of my earliers responses has the Toyota R134 Retrofit instructions, with quantities/capacities listed. I am almost sure it's about 24oz. Since I was using an Aristo compressor and another type of condensor, I just filled until I got close to what "normal" low and high side pressurs are supposed to be, according to the TRSM. I ended up using about 26oz during the process, but am sure that only about 24oz actually made it into the system. Once you get very close to the normal positions on your guages set, you are full enough (and not overfilled) AFAIK.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
My system discharged its self over the winter.

I pulled vacuum on it and then pumped in two x 12 oz cans.
This was/is correct amount for my R134a converted MKIII

Does anybody know how to CHECK the A/C oil level?

I seem to recall reading about taking the top cover off of the compressor and using a home-made dipstick but can't remember/find the details.....

Thanks,
Jim

PS: and yeah ... overcharge is BAD ... puts too much strain on the system, and also does not cool as well.
 

· (◕_◕)
Joined
·
8,453 Posts
As far as I know my R12 still works, lol...
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6,153 Posts
I removed my compressor and drained. Just removed the cap w/the 4 allen-head bolts, turned upside down and turning the center/shaft about 20 times. Let sit upside down and continue to drain. The longer you let it, the more that will seep out (but not very much more).

I had replaced my dryer/rcvr, expansion valve, sme of the lines and eventually the condensor. So, I knew that I did not have much of the old oil left in the system and filled at the compressor low-side with ~4oz of PAG46.

R12 is still available, but I am using the Aristo compressor and replaced/upgraded enough components to just go ahead and stay with the R134 system. Others may have similar reasons for making the switch to R134.

FWIW: I've had a couple of my MKIIIs converted to R134 and it's not even close to cooling me off like R12. I did this last conversion myself, but replaced the condensor w/one that was more efficient (parallel flow). You can find the info/results in the threads I posted before.

Leaving work Friday, car baking in the Sun. Vent temp was at 123 degrees when I got in he car. Cooled down to 62 with a quickness, I turned on the recirc, and was at 43 degress vent temp by the time I got home 30 minutes later. I was so comfortable, that I forgot to even look at the vent temp again, 'til I got home.
 

· Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
Joined
·
7,532 Posts
I just put my Ac system together today and my car took three 12oz cans and is still dipping down to 20psi on the low side and then the compressor shuts off. The static pressure rises to about 40psi and the compressor kicks back on. I poured about 4-5oz total of pag46 oil in Also.

The car blows about 40*f measured at the vent which I supposed is good. But I'm not sure why it took 3 full cans starting from a vacc of 29" and is still showing pressures dropping down to 18/20psi.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
716 Posts
You have a restriction in the AC system somewhere. Did you do reciever/drier, compressor, and expansion valve?

If its cooling good enough for you ,you can leave it as is until something fails.
 

· Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
Joined
·
7,532 Posts
It's r134a. Just straight refrig, no additives, dyes or stop leaks. The compressor is old but has been closed the entire time it's been in the car. The only time it was open was when the engine was pulled. The dryer is bran new of course. The condenser is bran old. Txv is old. I left that because the recall is still active, right? So I was counting on just rolling up to Toyota to have it fixed when it starts to act up.

I thought there was a restriction in the line somewhere too. Can't be on the liquid side because the low side pressure would be high too right? So maybe there's a restriction between the evap and compressor? It is cooling very well in spite of whatever is wrong, even without the engine fans running and 80* ambient temps. Vent temps were still 40-42*
 

· Registered
Joined
·
505 Posts
3 cans is to much 134a. When I charged my 12 system after putting on a new compressor it only took 2 1/4 twelve ounce cans and youre supposed to use 80-90% of 134 charge compared to the original 12 charge so you shouldve used less than what I used. By the way mineral oil does not work with 134 so you shouldve draon the compressor and added the correct amount of ester oil. What are you gauge readings at idle btw?
 

· Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
Joined
·
7,532 Posts
I know the oils don't play well. I flushed my entire system and let it sit overnight before closing it. I vacuumed it for almost 2hours. And the vacc held for over an hour too. So I was pleased with that.

At idle, the compressor kicks on at 40psi and it idles all the way down to 18psi before it shuts off. I'm going to get high side readings today. Where should that be, 230psi?

Edit: my static pressure is 106psi on a 92* day. I think that's a tad high...
Edit2: nvm. I jus cracked the high side line between the dryer and condenser. Gotta recover the refer and pull the line to get it welded. Guess I torqued the r134 adapter too tight. Fml
 
1 - 20 of 47 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top