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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just curious of opinions on this topic. I am talking about how many break in miles....then right to 30 psi tuning and racing. i know my plan of attack...just wanted to hear some opinions.

Thanks
Tony
 

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Bad Karma Supra
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Ahh...almost ready to go eh Tony?! :D

For me - after AutoTuner put in the fresh motor, basically they told me ~1000 miles of various driving, but obviously no huge RPM's / boost. Then, change out the break-in oil - put in the fresh stuff and go to it!

I think I ended up with ~1200 miles on the motor before getting into any solid boost.
 

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I drove mine approx. 50 miles, and then changed the oil. Then I put approx. 300 miles and changed the oil again. Ran low boost for another 2-300 miles, and then switched to synthetic oil, and ran high boost from there on out.

Tim
 
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Most guys that I've talked to, told me as soon as you start it up, let it warm up for about 20 minutes to let everything settle in and then have it. Drive it like you are going to be driving it, not like an old lady is going to be driving it.

Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for response guys.

Jay..yeah the Silver Bullet is almost ready to be fired up and have a new life :) Should be interesting to say the least. I have some catching up to do so hopefully my new setup will work ok :) You better believe the first time i run the car...you will see the longest most badass burnout form me yet.....and then you will see a launch from hell. It will either break or run a 9 sec pass first time out. It has been down way too long.


Tim


I pretty much was going to break in similar to you. 50-75 miles then change oil.....then next 1-200 miles high rpm...low boost...and lots of decel and change oil again. Then 200-500 or so............kinda start slowly boosting it and more decel in low and high gears.....and by end of 500 be going WOT on low boost. Then change oil to synthetic and let it rip 100% on all boost. I will put miles on quick cause i want to dyno and race....i will keep you posted :) Pm me sometime and i will tell ya my new setup.....or give my cell a call...i will pm it to you.
 

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Super Moderator!!ON PATROL ALL OVER!!
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tony check out the tech area in nemkiv i asked this same question about a year ago i belive

much to read there.
 

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2/3 HP to the Paws
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Ubermensch said:
I'd love to hear an experienced engine builders response to this article.
Okay, it works. I've tried both the "gentle" and "flog it" methods on nearly a dozen engines over the last few years (three of which were Supras), and the hard break-in always resulted in higher compression and a stronger engine.

I break all of mine in on a dyno now, much like that article describes. Works like a charm.
 

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Simba said:
Okay, it works. I've tried both the "gentle" and "flog it" methods on nearly a dozen engines over the last few years (three of which were Supras), and the hard break-in always resulted in higher compression and a stronger engine.

I break all of mine in on a dyno now, much like that article describes. Works like a charm.
Wow...
good to know!

But hwo cna you say "and the hard break-in always resulted in higher compression and a stronger engine" ?
Do you have any numbers?
 

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2/3 HP to the Paws
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AtomicFabio said:
But hwo cna you say "and the hard break-in always resulted in higher compression and a stronger engine" ?
Do you have any numbers?
As pertains to the 2jz, the first one I built was broken in gently, the second one got flogged (same rings, pistons and hone) and had 5-8psi higher compression across all cylinders after 1,500 break in miles.

I've reproduced it on other engines as well, including a few 7m's and a bike, so I highly doubt this was a fluke.

Stands to reason that forcing the rings into the bores allows them to seal better before the crosshatch wears off.
 

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Bad Karma Supra
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Silver Bullet said:
Thanks for response guys.

Jay..yeah the Silver Bullet is almost ready to be fired up and have a new life :) Should be interesting to say the least. I have some catching up to do so hopefully my new setup will work ok :) You better believe the first time i run the car...you will see the longest most badass burnout form me yet.....and then you will see a launch from hell. It will either break or run a 9 sec pass first time out. It has been down way too long.

Nice! Shoot me a PM or something when you all are hitting the track, I'd like to come down for some pointers ;) Due to not listening to you and Matt...I had to replace my rear - So armed with a new TRD LSD and new 3.27:1 gears...I'm dying to get out there!

You know you gotta run a 9.60 to hold down the East Coast! :D
 

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I always change the oil and filter after the first time I run a motor. You want to bring the motor up to operating temp and either on a dyno or road put some load on it. But don't let the motor "Engine Brake", this is about 30 minutes elasped time.

Changing the oil at this time removes all the little metal particles from the oil.
 

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2/3 HP to the Paws
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dblegle said:
But don't let the motor "Engine Brake", this is about 30 minutes elasped time.
Engine braking should be done as much as possible, it loads the rings and presses them into the cylinder bore just as well as accelerating does.

What you don't want to do is let the car coast, idle, or drive at a set speed until the first 20 miles or so (and first oil change) has been performed.
 

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OG
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There ought to be a method to the madness. If you look at the procedures for rotax ultralights, the basic idea is that of progressive loading periods followed by cool-downs.

But some of the Supra Gurus have distilled it down to this procedure..
First, dry crank the car for 15 seconds (disconnect coil packs and igniters)
Then, start the car, do not let it idle - run it at about 1700-2000 rpm for about 30 seconds - long enough to know that there are no major leaks.

Then drive around for about 5 minutes, normally with th exception of not letting it idle. Again, quickly check for leaks.

Go somewhere where you have a lot of room to work (isolated highway) and go on progressive loads at 20, 30 40% throttle and in 10% increments all the way to 100%, all in 6th gear, for 15-30 seconds. Between each load cycle, you cruise at about 1700-2000 rpm for 5 minutes to cool things down. Towards the end, you will be going very, very fast.

This procedure heats/cools everything in progressive cycles, taking care of both sealing the rings and the metallic grain structure of the pistons.

Then change the oil and you are done.

Credit goes to Lance W.

Cheers
Rich B 95 BPU 6-spd
 
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