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Discussion Starter #1
I heard there was a drain hole, but I can never seem to find it. Does the car need to be jacked up or something? I'm looking for some detailed help please. Also any recommendations on the fluids? I know there was a thread a week ago discussing the coolant, but I just need any ok brand.

The reason why I'm doing this is my power steering is squeeking. I heard you were supposed to put only certain fluid in there. I dunno what's in there so I might as well drain it out. At the same time my coolant is kinda dirty and low. I don't know what's currently in there too, so might as well refresh it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Lol, YOU THE MAN. Actually I rarely read mkiv.com. I go there once in a while. I don't go through their online manual because I don't really know where to look. Looks like the car has to be jacked up. I guess I got the coolant flush down.

Now how do I drain and flush the power steering?
 
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You don't have to jack it up to drain the coolant... you can just reach down and unscrew it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
TT Tercel said:
There is also a plug on the block

Yes. I heard you were supposed to open both plugs, but I guess that would involve jacking up the car. Is it ok if I just open teh one under the radiator?
 

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Where is the drain plug.

Can anyone describe where the drain plug is located on a 94 Supra TT. I am installing a single and do not have the luxury of starting my car up at this point. Any pics or detailed description would be helpful.

Sincerely,
John Staats
 

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The drain plug is located on the lower portion of the radiator, white plastic looking thing shaped like a propeller. Jack up the car a little and get under there and look at the lower part of the radiator, you won't miss it.
 

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Drain Plug on the block??

I pulled all the fluid out of radiator, etc but I am looking for a drain plug on the block. Is there one on the block?

Thanks,
Staats
 

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Yes there is a drain valve on the block...passenger side, about mid way down, can't miss it though it is a bitch to reach, so have all your extensions and swivels ready on your ratchet to loosen it. Though, after doing this once myself, I would say that you could just flush your coolant a bunch of times with DI water (eg. filling it up with DI, driving your car a little to get the coolant to circulate, drain, repeat...) and achieve the same effect if not better. Just be aware that you can't fill the system completely without the thermostat being open. Also, you can buy a additive to help clean out the coolant system when you're flushing with DI.

I drained everything and still got coolant color to come out after 2-3 flushes with DI water...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I see the white plug under the radiator, but I can't find the one on the side of the block. Also, is it OK if I just run on tap water in the meantime while I wait for my coolant from Toyota?

Can someone explain to me what's the diff between running 50/50 and running pure 100%? I only drive during the summer, so no winter weathers.
 

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Its a risk to run just pure tap water because it can cause inside rusting and coolant increases the boiling point.

Because I live in Texas I run a 60/40 coolant/distilled water mix.
I ended up flushing mine 6 times to make sure it was all clean inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Can you explain to me what does more coolant or more water do? I mean some people run 100% coolant (or so they say) and some run 50/50, and you run 60/40. So there must be a reason behind that right?
 

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It's an operating temperature range effect. The more coolant you add, the lower and higher the freezing and boiling points are of the mixed coolant respectively. Some people run 100% water + water wetter, though I have not heard of 100% coolant. Also, coolant, other than altering the BP/FP of the water, also protects your system from corrosion by controlling the pH of the water and with the addition of corrosion inhibitors. DI water itself contains little to no ions so it is not buffered and will acidify very quickly. Inhibitors coat the surface of the metal slowing the mass transfer of species to and from the metal surfaces therby decreasing the corrosion rate or alter the surface chemistry in one way or another.

Just stick with 50/50 and be done with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
97TT6SP said:
Just stick with 50/50 and be done with it.
Yea, prob easiest and hassle free way. I'm just wondering what are the positives and negatives off running too much coolant. If you say that coolant helps the BP and FP, I wonder why people run 100% water. I heard the more water you have, the better it'll cool or something (but that's only for people that live in warm states).
 

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michaelvanle said:
Yea, prob easiest and hassle free way. I'm just wondering what are the positives and negatives off running too much coolant. If you say that coolant helps the BP and FP, I wonder why people run 100% water. I heard the more water you have, the better it'll cool or something (but that's only for people that live in warm states).
More water = decreased viscosity and increased thermal conductivity and a lot higher heat capacity = higher heat transfer rates...
 
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