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I have made a number of contributions to the Club lexus forums due to my vested interest in my SC400 that I am building up at the moment. However, I know that some of my recent research findings are particularly of interest to the MKIV community as well.

One of my main research interests has been trying to get a MK3 R154 transmission converted to suit the SC/MKIV shifter location for the least amount of money with the most quality parts available.

Through the direction of Neil Griffiths, Australian Toyota Soarer guru, I have been pointed to the two parts necessary to extend the shifter location on the MK3 trans sufficiently to accomodate the SC/MKIV. The two parts that I have acquired from Toyota Japan (by way of Carson Toyota) to accomplish this are parts for the 91-93 JZZ30 Soarer R154, a direct descendant of the MK3 R154.

To follow is a number of photos showing the differences between the MK3 and early version Soarer parts that will allow the MK3 trans to quickly and cost-effectively be converted to suit the MKIV with genuine Toyota parts totaling $76.

I am not on Supraforums often other than to check the classifieds for parts that are useful to my build; but, I will try to check this thread when I am at a computer to answer any questions that anyone has in regard to these MK3-to-Soarer R154 transmission conversion parts.

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An excerpt from my Club Lexus thread:
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Here are some shots of the parts I received from Toyota Japan by way of Carson Toyota to convert the shifter location of a MK3 R154 to suit the MKIV/SC. These parts are OEM parts from the early version Soarer R154, which is a direct descendant of the MK3 R154.

These parts have been referenced multiple times in this thread, but in the event that you have missed them, here they are one more time:
$60 - Housing, Shifter (33521-24040)
$16 - Control Shift Lever (33570-24010)

The Soarer parts are 1.125" longer than the corresponding MA70 (MK3) Supra parts. This will extend the shifter sufficiently to not contact the metal bar separating the shifter area from the ash tray.

This is a shot to confirm the identical shifter geometries between the MA70 Supra shifter and the C's short shifter for the early version JZZ30 Soarer. Note that the stock shifter from the MK3 that came with my trans had been hacked up a bit:


Here is a shot from another direction to show the similarities in the two shifters. When I received my early version JZZ30 Soarer short shifter from C's in Japan, I noticed that the instruction manual listed the MA70 and JZA70 (MK3) Supra shifters to have the same part number. This is further evidence of the identical shifter:


Here is the money shot showing the differences in shifter location from the two shifter housings. As mentioned, the extension is 1.125", which will give you the OEM shifter location from the early version JZZ30 Soarer trans:


Here is a shot for comparison of the two shifter housings. Notice how much longer the JZZ30 Soarer housing is. But, notice how everything else is identical in term of bolt location, shifter angle, etc:


Here is another shot to compare the Supra and Soarer R154 shifter housings. This shifter housing, which looks altogether similar to what some have spent hundreds to custom fabricate, put me out $60 from Toyota Japan through Luis at Carson Toyota:


If you look really close, you will notice that the shifter housing from Toyota came pre-greased in the socket where the shifter ball enters the housing, further evidence of the quality of a genuine Toyota part:


If the shifter housing is extended 1.125", then the shift lever just inside the housing must be corresspondingly extended 1.125". This that longer shift lever, the second and final part necessary for the MKIV/SC shifter location conversion:


Here is the shift lever inside the stock MK3 trans that needs replacing to put the shifter itself in the appropriate location to suit the extension. If my R154 was not behind 26 things at the moment, I would have pulled the trans and swapped out the piece:


This is a simple mock up shot to illustrate the 1.125" extension from the JZZ30 shift lever that suits the JZZ30 shifter housing. This shift lever was $16:
 

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Great information! I was just wondering as far as the pedal assembly and master cyclinder is concerned can we just used the 6-speed assembly?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Have you actually installed it in a car yet? It looks about 2" too short still...
No, I have not.

These are part numbers direct from the early version JZZ30 Soarer R154 transmission. The conversion that I am about to undertake has been done a number of times by the Australians. Neil Griffiths, the Australian Soarer guru, has directed me to these parts as he has done this very conversion of a MK3 Supra trans for 1JZ Soarer guys a number of times.
 

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No, I have not.

These are part numbers direct from the early version JZZ30 Soarer R154 transmission. The conversion that I am about to undertake has been done a number of times by the Australians. Neil Griffiths, the Australian Soarer guru, has directed me to these parts as he has done this very conversion of a MK3 Supra trans for 1JZ Soarer guys a number of times.
I'm curious to see where it is going to sit relative to the stock shifter hole. Most of the conversions I have seen move the shifter back at least 2.5" from the mk3 location.
 

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I'm curious to see where it is going to sit relative to the stock shifter hole. Most of the conversions I have seen move the shifter back at least 2.5" from the mk3 location.
I am curious as well. I just posted about this on the is300 forum, as I was looking for a better way to get the shifter on the R154 to the stock Is300 location.

It seems that the soarer r154 trans also has some other pieces that extend from the side of the shifter housing to the trans case.

Soarer R154


If we could get the part numbers for these parts we would be in buisness.



MKIII Supra R154
[/QUOTE]
 

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Blizzy, I hope you dont mind me posting in your thread, I have found some other usefull info which may be what some are looking for.

There were actually two types of shifter for the Soarer.

The earlier manual TTs had a short extension with a bent lever which is what you have shown above.

The later version used what I have in my pictures above. Here are the exploded parts diagrams for those of who who need to extend it the full 2.5" and use a straight shifter which may be smoother than a bent lever since the shif point will be more linear.











 

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So can we refine this further and remove the confusion.

Which part numbers do we ACTUALLY need...
 

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Sorry to burst your bubble, but that shifter extension is simply too short to move the shifter into the correct location on an MK-IV. This is a properly modified MK3 shifter made specifically for am MK-IV:



And the shots that you posted of your extension for comparision purposes:

 

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take a look at the picture I posted.. it puts the shifter exaclty where yours is. The front of the shifter ends right where the dust bushing is on the output shaft. No welding needed and proper alignment is maintained.

Sorry to burst your bubble:1poke: :)
 

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take a look at the picture I posted.. it puts the shifter exaclty where yours is. The front of the shifter ends right where the dust bushing is on the output shaft. No welding needed and proper alignment is maintained.

Sorry to burst your bubble:1poke: :)
Right, the welded extension moves the shifter back to the exact position that a Soarer R-154 would move the shifter back (about 2.5 inches).

The shifter extension that you posted from an early Soarer only moves the shifter back by 1 inch from the MK-3 location. This is clearly too short.
 

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So it appears that the additional length of the shifter is what will move the shifter back to a somewhat suitable position. My concern would be that if you felt like the MK-3 R-154 felt like a 'tuck transmission' before, this lengthened linkage would probably make it feel like an 18-wheeler.
 

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Just to give you an idea where the Soarer transmission gets the shifter linkage to in the MKIV body:

 

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i've done this multiple times, including doing the first write-up on it on club-lex and here. the welded extension removes the need for the swan-neck shifter that blizzy is incorporating into the setup which is costly and is hard to come by. by adding the extra inch and a half to the housing the regular mk3 shifter can be used and thus less time and money is spent.

Interex 87 i have done three different methods of making the trans fit, from extending the housing, bending the shifter to fit the hole, and lastly welding a jog into the shifter itself and all three feel exactly the same. the mechanical action doesnt change, it just relocates pivot points but still has the same function. so not to burst anyones bubble but any of the three methods work just fine and can be done to whatever anyeones need is. If you like it pretty do the welded extension of the housing, if you dont give a crap just weld in a jog to the shifter or bend it to fit.

I find it funny that a lot of the websites that are making the extensions and selling them to the public are using my photos from my original post... so take them for what its worth. There are many ways to make it work and you can add in anything from 1.5 inches to 4.25 inches and still have it fit the stock 5 speed shifter hole.
 

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... you can add in anything from 1.5 inches to 4.25 inches and still have it fit the stock 5 speed shifter hole.
So, the 1.125" extension this post is about is too short is what you are saying? Most people would probably like thier shifter somewhere near the center of the hole, not all the way to either end. From Interex_87's picture, it looks like Blizzy's shifter is going to sit all the way at the very forward most part of the hole and possibly cause shifting interference issues.

Too bad since (contrary to your statement) this is ultra cheap and only a speed dial phone call away.
 

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chevyeater, no, there are multiple ways of doing this as vipsoarer mentioned. blizzy's way uses the swan neck shifter while the extra extension done by some uses the straight shifter. both will put the shifter in the right position.
 

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Interex 87 i have done three different methods of making the trans fit, from extending the housing, bending the shifter to fit the hole, and lastly welding a jog into the shifter itself and all three feel exactly the same. the mechanical action doesnt change, it just relocates pivot points but still has the same function. so not to burst anyones bubble but any of the three methods work just fine and can be done to whatever anyeones need is. If you like it pretty do the welded extension of the housing, if you dont give a crap just weld in a jog to the shifter or bend it to fit.
The thing is, the longer that you make the shifter, the longer your throws will be. I'd be interested to see how long the throws are with this longer Soarer shifter.
 

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The thing is, the longer that you make the shifter, the longer your throws will be. I'd be interested to see how long the throws are with this longer Soarer shifter.
The throw shoudlnt be any longer at all. You are not changing the fulcrum point at all. As long as the shifter itself isnt modified, the pivot point that is, it should feel exactly the same. At least thats what the laws of physics say...

Now, where there will be a noticable difference, for the better, will be the ability to use a straight shifter instead of a "dog leg" or "swan neck".

I was using a c's shifter (right) that had a dog leg extension added to it. It shortend the throw by rasing the fulcrum point above the stock point with a spacer. see picutre.
This shifter had a really short throw, was tight but required a ton of force to get it into gear because the momentum angle was not correct. I actually broke the weld shifting one day and had to re weld it (May have been a poor joint to start with but still shows it took allot of force to put into gear.)


I then switched to a stock SC300 shifter (left) which was properly angled by toyota with a swan neck from the factory. The swifting was 50% easier and the throw was longer than the c's, but tolerable. On th epicture belwo I lined up the bottom point of each shifter and placed purple tape at the fulcrum points so you can see the difference. So to re-iterate, the shift throw will not change unless you change the fulcrum point.

 

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This is where the unmodified MKIII R154 sits in My IS300T. I need to get that linkage back exaclty 2.6" to have it dead center.

 
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