Ill try and explain this as quickly/simply as possible. Its no real brain teaser if you think about what youre doing. Please keep in mind that im not saying that the way i did it is the right way or the only way...i guess it just comes down to whatever works and what youre happy with in the end.
2 things to note...i did absolutely no drilling into my stock front bar...will explain why later on, and i didnt do any modifications to the existing wiring in the supra. All wiring modifications were done to the extra wiring looms that i bought. Basically chose to do most of the job this way so that if i ever choose to go back to original form then i can do so without any problems.
So without further adoooo.....heres the write up...
PART 1 (Removing the old indicators)
First image shows the car in its original state...amber orange early model indicators...
RHS indicator, i started on this side of the car first as from previous experience in installing my Euro headlights i knew that the bolts and harnesses would be easier to disassemble on this side of the car.
Started off with essentially pulling out my battery...just to give me some better room to work in...when pulling out my headlight, and then the indicator.
Then on the LHS i decided to pull all of my stock airintake out, so the induction pipes, filter and air box, and front intake. Basically as above just to give me some room to work in when doing the LHS indicator.
With RHS headlight pull you can now see i have complete access to the indicator and the 3 bolts holding it on to my front bar. these require an 8mm socket to take off or anything suitable for an 8mm head. As for the LHS indicator there is absolutely no chance of using a socket to take the bolts off so other tools were needed.
With the LHS headlight pulled you can begin to understand the difficulty that youre going to have when pulling off and putting in the new indicator. The intake panel you can see in the picture was also removed in order to make more room. the LHS indicator also has 3 bolts holding it in, theyre just much more difficult to get to.
This pic just shows the main RHS indicator loom detached from the old bulb socket.
RHS Detached Loom
This picture just shows the main LHS indicator loom detached from the old LHS indicator.
LHS Detached Loom
If you havent been able to tell yet...there is a difference between the two sides...the RHS indicator only requires you to plug the main loom into a socket sitting in the indicator but the LHS has its own wire loom and a different connector feeding directly out of the bulb socket and connecting the the main LHS wire loom.
(again i remind you that i didnt modify any of the existing wiring)
With the 3 bolts undone on the RHS indicator the main indicator pops out with ease...
RHS indicator Out
this pic just shows a test fit of the new indicator...**i should note that the new indicators have a different mounting point. They have the 2 at the rear just like in the old one but instead of having one at the top they have one popping out the side...This is were you can chose to drill a hold for this mount in the side of your front bar or do as i did and remove the insert thread and just use the rear 2 to mount your indicators. When done up tightly enough they sit home pretty well...Ive found that one side sags a little so i plan on using some double sided tape to keep it in position (havent done this yet but either way its unnoticeable)
Test Fit
Now the picture below shows the LHS idicator out but in order to get to that stage, i had to firstly undo the top bolt with an 8mm spanner, then undo the first rear bolt with the same spanner through the top where the headlight used to sit. The last rear bolt was the worst for me and took the longest amount of time...it was rusted and the only way i could get to it was through the front side intake where your stock intercooler sits. Took a while and threw several fits trying to undo it but i got there in the end...
LHS indicator out
because i was only going to use the 2 mounting points for the new indicator i didnt reuse the rusted bolt and only used the 2 good ones. Was easier to put the new indicator in later.