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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

In lieu of the fact that theres not too much info around on how to do this i thought that since i was going to be installing these babies on my supra then i might as well create a quick reference guide on HOW TO do it...this is the way i put it all together and is by no means the right/wrong way...its just my way.

so without further piss farting around here it is....(consists of 2 parts PART1-Removal of Old indicators & PART2-wiring and installation of new ones)





Parts list consits of the following
FL indicator housing
FR indicator housing
Socket plug parking light bulb - 90075-60001
Socket plug for main indicator bulb - 90075 - 99080
FR Turn signal chord - 81515 - 14390
FR Turn signal wire - 82983 - 33010
Side turn chord - 81735 - 17070
Small Wedge Parker bulbs x 2
Large Wedge Indicator bulbs x 2
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Ill try and explain this as quickly/simply as possible. Its no real brain teaser if you think about what youre doing. Please keep in mind that im not saying that the way i did it is the right way or the only way...i guess it just comes down to whatever works and what youre happy with in the end.

2 things to note...i did absolutely no drilling into my stock front bar...will explain why later on, and i didnt do any modifications to the existing wiring in the supra. All wiring modifications were done to the extra wiring looms that i bought. Basically chose to do most of the job this way so that if i ever choose to go back to original form then i can do so without any problems.

So without further adoooo.....heres the write up...


PART 1 (Removing the old indicators)

First image shows the car in its original state...amber orange early model indicators...


RHS indicator, i started on this side of the car first as from previous experience in installing my Euro headlights i knew that the bolts and harnesses would be easier to disassemble on this side of the car.


Started off with essentially pulling out my battery...just to give me some better room to work in...when pulling out my headlight, and then the indicator.


Then on the LHS i decided to pull all of my stock airintake out, so the induction pipes, filter and air box, and front intake. Basically as above just to give me some room to work in when doing the LHS indicator.


With RHS headlight pull you can now see i have complete access to the indicator and the 3 bolts holding it on to my front bar. these require an 8mm socket to take off or anything suitable for an 8mm head. As for the LHS indicator there is absolutely no chance of using a socket to take the bolts off so other tools were needed.



With the LHS headlight pulled you can begin to understand the difficulty that youre going to have when pulling off and putting in the new indicator. The intake panel you can see in the picture was also removed in order to make more room. the LHS indicator also has 3 bolts holding it in, theyre just much more difficult to get to.



This pic just shows the main RHS indicator loom detached from the old bulb socket.
RHS Detached Loom

This picture just shows the main LHS indicator loom detached from the old LHS indicator.
LHS Detached Loom

If you havent been able to tell yet...there is a difference between the two sides...the RHS indicator only requires you to plug the main loom into a socket sitting in the indicator but the LHS has its own wire loom and a different connector feeding directly out of the bulb socket and connecting the the main LHS wire loom.(again i remind you that i didnt modify any of the existing wiring)


With the 3 bolts undone on the RHS indicator the main indicator pops out with ease...
RHS indicator Out

this pic just shows a test fit of the new indicator...**i should note that the new indicators have a different mounting point. They have the 2 at the rear just like in the old one but instead of having one at the top they have one popping out the side...This is were you can chose to drill a hold for this mount in the side of your front bar or do as i did and remove the insert thread and just use the rear 2 to mount your indicators. When done up tightly enough they sit home pretty well...Ive found that one side sags a little so i plan on using some double sided tape to keep it in position (havent done this yet but either way its unnoticeable)
Test Fit

Now the picture below shows the LHS idicator out but in order to get to that stage, i had to firstly undo the top bolt with an 8mm spanner, then undo the first rear bolt with the same spanner through the top where the headlight used to sit. The last rear bolt was the worst for me and took the longest amount of time...it was rusted and the only way i could get to it was through the front side intake where your stock intercooler sits. Took a while and threw several fits trying to undo it but i got there in the end...
LHS indicator out

because i was only going to use the 2 mounting points for the new indicator i didnt reuse the rusted bolt and only used the 2 good ones. Was easier to put the new indicator in later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
PART 2 (wiring and assembly)

Doing the RHS indicator is extremely easy, given that i had a direct plug in bulb socket for the indicators, its just a matter of sticking the bulbs into the New bulb sockets and popping the sockets into the indicator. Only tricky thing that you might have to do is extend the main wire loom to reach the main indicator bulb socket. You do this by simply removing one of the rubber zip ties at the rear of the wire loom so that it gives you a bit more slack and you can then just plug it into the new bulb socket.

RHS indicator is done...

LHS is where the fun is at...the first picture shows the existing wire loom connector (LEFT) and the new connector/wire (RIGHT). The new one being slghtly different requires some modification in order for it to fit the exsiting Main wire connector. To modify it you have the remove a clip from one of its sides (cut it off) and in the head of the connector grab some pliers or similar and remove a little white plastic spacer in the head of the connector. Once this is done it should closely resemble the old connector and you should be able to use it in the Main connector. The Newly modified one wont clip in like the old one but it has a tight enough tollerance so that when you push it home it will sit in there securely. *dont connect anything up yet...you have to do the cutting and splicing first.


the next photo shows the new wire loom and sockets for the LHS indicator...the sockets are fine as they are but you have to cut off the connector on the other end. This connector is only suitable for the late model main wire and so it wont fit onto any of your existing connectors. The plan here is to basically remove the unusable connector and replace it with the newly modified one that i had created earlier.


this next photo shows the connector the i modifed and the (white) connector that has to be removed in order to splice the modified connector to your bulb socket wires.


The next picture just shows the connector removed from the blub socket wires...as youll notice there are 3 wires and not 2. there are 2 wires that lead to your main indicator socket and there is one separate one for your parker lights. The separate wire for the parkers is not used in the early model supra as you have your parkers elsewhere. There is probably a way to wire this up so that it works to but at this stage ive simply trimed it and taped it off.



Now this next set of images shows the 2 different wires, the modified connector with 2 wires - GREEN & BLACK (LEFT) and the socket wires with 3 wires - 2 GREEN & 1 WHITE/BLACK (RIGHT). I taped off the unused green wire leading to the parker light just so i would also know that i wouldnt need it. So basically all you need to do is the following:

CONNECT GREEN TO GREEN
CONNECT BLACK TO WHITE/BLACK


And basically the way you do it is you carefully strip the wires till you have about 10mm of wire exposed on each of your ends. And you can either do it properly and solder the ends of the wires together or if you have the tools crimp the wires. But i went for the twist and tape method...so i basically made sure that i securely twisted the wires togther and then using electrical tape, wrapped up the twisted ends so that the wouldnt budge. Will probably do this properly at some stage but while its working fine ill leave it as is....so as i mentioned before...im not claiming this to be the only way or right way to do it. Its just the way i did it and it works!


Essentially once this is done...you plug you bulbs into the new sockets as was done in the RHS. Drop the sockets into the new indicator. Attach the indicator using only the 2 rear screws. Much easier and quicker this time...and then i simply put all the other bits in that where taken out, eg, headlights, induction, battery etc. and thats it....


And heres the final product...as mentioned earlier i want to improve on the install slightly just to make sure everything sits a bit more securely but ive been driving around with these babies since Saturday and havent had any issues, and they look sweet!
Finished 01
Finished 02
Finished 03

Hope this has helped somewhat....big thanks to Dusty at MVP for getting me the bits and pieces to do the job. :bigthumb:
 

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EXCELLENT write-up Kamil! Thank you for doing this for everyone. I have received many questions on how to do this and this surely will be very helpful to a lot of people.

Kind regards,

Dusty
 

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This is a great post

I have a question, when I got my car, it had neither a stock front bumper, nor turn signals. I bought clear ones to install, and haven't gotten around to looking how they actually mount yet. In prep for this, do the turn signals mount to the stock urethane bumper, or to a bracket, or what?

I have a c west front bumper, no crash support.
 

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usually they mount to the bumper. Not sure about the C-West but I have had a Erebuni (on the car when I bought it), Bomex, and currently a Trial front bumper and the turns mounted directly to all of them with no bracket.
 

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This is a great write-up. I would like to add that on the NA(-T) neither side has bolts that are difficult to remove to get out the stock turn signals (once the headlights are removed). As mentioned, the clear turn signals have two mounting screws that fit nicely into the stock holes but a third one on the side that can't be used as is. I originally test mounted them with just the two screws/nuts and the lamps really don't sit up tight into position - not to my liking anyway. I decided to drill holes for the third screw and thought I'd share the trick I used to do it.

1. Unscrew the side screw from the clear turn signal (you need to do this whether you decide to drill or not). Place the signal in the two stock screw holes. Look at the underside of the signal and note approximately where the hole will need to be drilled. Place a Post-it note over the area:

Side-screw removed and Post-it in place:


2. Take a magic marker and get the side screw hole on the turn signal good and wet with ink. Now, quickly and carefully put the signal into place up and tight so that it sits properly. Press the bumper from the inside firmly about where the screw hole is. Remove the lamp.

While it may take a try or two, this is what you should get - a bulls eye for drilling:



3. Drill the hole through the Post-it/bumper cover with a 7/32 bit.

4. Now this is where you might expect to just replace the side screw and bolt it up. Due to the strange geometry of the three screws, I'm not sure this is possible - I couldn't get it in this way. What works great is this; With the side screw out, install the lamp loosely with the two back screws then screw the side screw in from the inside of the bumper and tighten it down with a 10mm deep socket.

Sorry a little blurry... the side screw in place:



Tighten the two back nuts and that thing is in there snug and perfectly positioned.

Hope this might be useful to someone.
 

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Looks great!

But where's the pics on the 2nd post? I just get a "broken link" kinda thing. Works in the 1st post though..
 

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where did the pics go? also, i tried installing the clear signals today on my 96' supra with the origional headlights (not the 98's), just like the above post, but my harness didn't just click in like it says it does in the writeup.
 

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where did the pics go? also, i tried installing the clear signals today on my 96' supra with the origional headlights (not the 98's), just like the above post, but my harness didn't just click in like it says it does in the writeup.
Yeah, a lot of the pictures disappeared recently. I don't think the author has been on the forums for a while and the post was originally from 2005. Let me try to summarize by taking one of his original pictures that I modified:



Firstly, I'm not sure that some of the parts are optimal. The one with the green X through it does not appear to have any use at all.

For the passenger side cut the plug on B off and make a replacement plug by cutting the white plug off of A. Splice them together, the green to the parking light socket is taped off. To connect this new harness to the stock connector on the vehicle I found that the white spacers in BOTH connectors had to be removed to get them to seat securely. (Note if the turn signal does not work properly when you test it, you need to turn the plug over.) As mentioned in the original write-up, don't forget to cut the clip off the side of the A connector.

For the drivers side you just use the new bulb sockets shown in blue and connect the stock connector to the turn signal socket. You need to cut the wire harness hold-down on the vehicle to get the wire to reach.

By now it should be obvious that the parking lights are not used in this set-up. I will also mention that one of the new bulb socket's tabs had to be trimmed a bit to fit in the new turn signal opening and one fits but if you turn it more after it is snug it will get loose.

Hope this helps.
 

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thanks, i'll try that and get back if i have a question
 

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it worked. thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Hi guys,

its been brought to my attention recently that my image host which "was" free has decided to start charging for their service and have since hyjacked all the images i was storing on their site. So the images arent working atm, but......

i am working on a downloadable PDF document that will have all the images imbeded and the writeup in full for your own personal use.

And i will try and rehost the images that are currently being used for the write up else where. I hope to do this over the next couple of days so bear with me. Sorry about the mess, ill try and fix it asap. Glad my write up has been helpful so far.

Cheers fellas,
Kam
 

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This is a very helpful write up. Thanks...Darshana S..
 

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So as far as parts to order from Toyota... here is the list above:

Socket plug parking light bulb - 90075-60001
Socket plug for main indicator bulb - 90075 - 99080
FR Turn signal chord - 81515 - 14390
FR Turn signal wire - 82983 - 33010
Side turn chord - 81735 - 17070

Comparing this to MVP's install guide (http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/merchant/tech/turnsig/tsinstall.htm) it looks like you need everything if you want the parking lights functional. If you dont care about functional parking lights like me, then I believe you can skip "Side turn chord - 81735 - 17070" but will need the rest.
I'm pretty confident in this so thats how I'm going to order... I am going to get the bulb bases for the running lights just to easily seal the holes that would be left there without anything in place.
 

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I just upgraded my '95 MkIV with modified OEM clear turn signals. The modification was to remove the amber reflector/lens inside (I wanted the totally clear look, as opposed to the "fried egg" look), which are attached with a single screw.

But, to get to that screw, you have to remove the clear lens by baking the whole thing in the oven first. I baked mine at 270 degrees for 11 minutes, pried the clear lens off, quickly unscrewed the amber reflector, and compressed the clear lens back in place.

I wired mine with a variation of the instructions in this thread. I decided to go with both new (part of the new turn signals) and old (inside the headlights) parking lights lit together. It was a simple tap-in to the existing parking light wire. I used "Posi-Taps", which are much better than vampire taps.

Thanks to greggf's excellent solution for the side mounting screws. I didn't want to cut a long slot in my bumper, and I've seen some of these turn signals look droppy without the side screw attached. The only problem is that, on the OEM 97+ turn signals, the side screws don't screw out! They appear to be aluminum studs that are pressed into the plastic housing. To get them out, I heated up the stud with a grill lighter (which softened the plastic housing) and pulled them straight out. The hole I had to drill in the bumper had to be 1/2 inch. When I reassembled them from the inside of the bumper, I had to heat the stud (with the grill lighter again) for about a minute and then re-pressed it into the housing. Since it was hot, it softened the plastic housing as I pressed (holding it with pliers). I waited a few minutes for it to cool/seal, and then put on the fender washer/nut that came with the new lights.

 
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