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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When fully warmed up my stock temp gauge is hovering around the 2/3 mark and the ProEFI gauge is around ~200 F. Highest it reached was 203 with the AC on. I recently bought this car and during the inspection, the shop replaced the fan, fan clutch and bleed the coolant system. The car does have a 3-row Greddy FMIC, so I assume this would raise the temp up a little bit.

I did some searching on the forum and these temps are in the "acceptable range" but it's leaning towards the high side. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas on ways to bring it down closer to 180 degrees?

Included a few pics to show what I'm seeing.

engine bay.jpg Stock gauge.jpg ProEFI Gauge.jpg
 

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^Word

If you REALLY want to, there's a few good electric pusher fans that can be made to fit between the FMIC and condenser/radiator to assist with idle/traffic cooling, but I'd only bother with that if your A/C wasn't blowing cold at idle due to a lack of airflow through the condenser.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, guys! Guess I was worried for nothing and these temps are normal.
 

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Just a guy who loves cars
94' Turbo, Targa, 6 spd, Ren Red.
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Check how well the air is being forced through your radiator. In other words is the air at the front of the car able to bypass your radiator and spill past it. What thermostat are you using. Easy and cheap swap. Lastly, what ratio of coolant to water? Water is the part the heat exchange element. Coolant is lubricant, anti-freeze, and anti-corrosion. I am assuming you are running Toyota red, check what your ratio is. You can run a higher percentage distilled water to coolant and that will increase the efficiency of your radiator.
 
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Hardcore Night Warrior
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It sounds ok as far as op temp is concerned, but you could also do a "high pressure" wash from one of the car wash places or use your garden hose nozzle like I have, and hose down the condenser, rad, and FMIC if you have one. Make sure you hose down the fins straight on and not come down at an angle to avoid bending the cooling fins. Try that for like 5 mins. You could also see it as "general maintenance" too :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Drove the car this weekend again. While driving it was hovering between 194-200. When I was in the parking lot it started to heat up pretty high. Reaching like 215 at one point. I'm going to try and replace the thermostat to a lower temp one and burb the coolant system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So I raise the nose of the car on some ramps to burp the coolant system. I noticed that this fan fan never turned on even with the AC on. Is this fan part of the AC system? Curious if anyone knows what would trigger this fan on?
20210721_183322.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I figured it out. It was plugged into a wrong connector. Got the small fan to run now!
 

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Boost Junkie
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There you go. You are also missing all of the undertray panels that run from the front of the car to the area under the engine and connect to the front subframe. You need those trays. Without them air that should go into the intercooler/condensor/radiator actually takes the path of least resistance and travels under the car. These undertrays also help reduce lift on the front of the car.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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Boost Junkie
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I have the SRD undertrays, which look very similar to those you posted. Go for it.

Steve
 

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Yup, I have the Dewla center one. Looks awesome (because we ALL look under the car all the time, right ?) and fits perfectly. I still use the oem front tray, but will be getting the Dewla (if it's ever available) or SRD one when I install the FMIC.
 

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Definitely get those, or some OEM under-trays fitted asap.

This will help A LOT!!!
 
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