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Nocheez said:
Good read, thanks for all the information guys. I only have one question: how hard is it to get the tranny out without pulling the motor?

Seconding that question, I'm at the point where I wanna put in a stall, and want to also stiffen the shifts from where the were.
 

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Any word on the tractor tranny fluid? Saw one post guy saying it was good, then another with someone saying they weren't sure. Any final word, I'm assuming if the outlaw guys are running them, and with the abuse those trannies take, it can't be a bad idea.
 

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On a Soarer right hand drive, the plug is on the REAR TOP Side of the gearbox..and it does throw lots of errors on the digi dash on the Soarer..like abs for one, as it must also get the reading from this plug, also cause the JAP Soarer TT has a digi dash it looses the speedo reading..
Could this also cause a no-speedo reading and anit-lock light to be on w/ a 1J, using a JZA70 ECU? Thinking I may have left something unplugged.
 

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Got another question....what would cause the tranny to take an extremely long time to shift into OD? It almost seems as though the fluid needs to get up to operating temp, b/c it will finally shift into OD, it always shifts at about the same time, and according to my water temp gauge (Which I know is unrelated, but just something I've noticed.) it will finally shift at around the same temp on it. I'm going to be most likely pulling the tranny back out, since I'm wanting to get a stall and go bigger on my shims. But just wondering, it is very annoying driving along at 3500 to 4000rpm on the highway.
 

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Doing this mod for the second time now, but this time with the trans in the car. What I'm wondering is when you loosen the bolt on the selector arm, will that make the tranny come out of the park gear?

I only have a couple jack stands right now and DO NOT want to run the risk of the car rolling back and possibly coming off the jack stands.

Also, do these look normal....







Any help appreciated.
 
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