· Moderator, l337 M0d3r4t0r
gonna put it in the Tech section. and stick it.
Good luck on pushing it to the limits! I really plan to put it to the test, 170K transmission, these mods, with a good cooler, and 500HP to beat on it, but be smart with it, and just see how well it does, the most likely failure at gross power is going to be a planatary gear breaking..MKIII87Turbo said:Haven't seen this as a sticky yet.
Well I did this today on a tranny that is out of my car. I used (4) 5/16" aluminum washers on each of the 2 accumulators. It came out to about 1/4 in thickness. They were a little bit to large in diameter so I stacked them between a bolt and nut, put that into a drill and spun them on sandpaper to get them smaller. I also made a bracket that holds the cam for the kickdown cable open. All of this took about an hour to do. Since you are in there you should replace your filter. If I have the will to do it, I'll be putting this tranny in tomorrow. I'll report on this and see how it works out.
I know on this tranny (91) it does not have the solid rod, and the springs in the top are held in with snap rings. The B-2 accumulator has 1 spring on the bottom, and the C-2 has 2 springs on the bottom. (I forgot where they went and had to look at the TRSM) The shims do go into the same place though.
This is a temporary tranny for me and the original one I take out will get a full rebuild with Kevelar or Rabestos Blue frictions.
Well, I cant give you aproximant amounts of shim that'll start to hurt you physicaly. But there is a point that it will hurt you. Thats why I suggest 1/3, it works great without putting too much kick into your shifts.nosechunks said:This is sweet information!!! i was thinkin about how to go about making the automatic stronger and i guess this is the way to do it. about how much power do u think this would handel?
U said that unles u dont care for ur neck or ur tires spinning on everyshift dont shim it more, does this mean that if u shim it for like 2/3 instead of 1/3 itll literally break yo neck? lol
Also that port that u cant block, thats isnt where the shim goes, its where the accumulator jammy sits right?
EDIT: i just read up more on this and from what i read, the first to second gear Sprag is the weak link and it will actually strip or break. i dont really know all that much about auto tranies, or about what this Sprag thing is but i was just wondering if doing the things stated in this thread will help that or not.
1. If I remember, isn't the B&M for manual throttle bodies? I don't think it'll work on the a340...nosechunks said:on another note, would a shifter like the B&M star ratchet shifter work on these trannies? it says work on most 3 and 4 speed trannies. so i figure it would shift from first to third and then have a switch for overdrive right?
Oh yea one more thing for raven, is it possible to get rid of the gear to gear pause when manually shifting from L to 2 to D with out having to buy the paddle shifter thing???
nosechunks said:so when u were running 1.1 bar it was slipping? what did they rebuild it with? with 5/8ths of a shim does it cherp second and third? and what did you do with the cable? did u lock it wide open or are u just running it stock spec?Yes, it definately was slipping (note that this was BEFORE this mod), it was rebuilt w/blue rabestos (so they said, I have my doubts), with an extra 1-2 clutch. I burnt it so bad on a 1-2 shift I could smell clutch pack. It sure seems ok now tho, I need to flush it again.
Yes, chirp is a polite way to put it. It bangs REALLY hard, so hard I'm a little worried about the rest of the drivetrain. Also, I think that 5/8" is about all you can go, it gets hard to put back together and is probably the equivalent of no accumulator at all.
Yes, cable is locked wide open. IMO you must lock it all the way open, I think the only reason Toyota didn't is that you can actually hear the fluid flowing at idle. It's the only thing that keeps your pressure really high at low rpm.
You need to drop the rear of the tranny down quite a bit, then put about 4 feet of extensions together, piece of cake then.MKIII87Turbo said:I still haven't gotten the tranny in yet. Will probably try this weekend. After 3 hours trying to get the top bolts out, I gave up. Going to take the tranny crossmember off and drop the rear down and see if I can get to the top bolts better.
Yea i was just wondering for like around town just shifting it manual every once and a whileraven97990 said:1. If I remember, isn't the B&M for manual throttle bodies? I don't think it'll work on the a340...
2. The transmission is electronicly controled, so the only way to get exactly what you want is to use the electronic shift control(paddle thing) BUT doing this mod causes you to have quicker shifts between those gears, it shortens the time, so it'll acheive what you want. Are you looking to drag race your car? Beacuse in most cases, letting the computer do it's own thing is alot better. I use to shift the gears myself going down the track, and then decided to leave it in a drive and see what happened, I picked up 2/10ths doing it that way...