[1chic2nv]

my motor is ready for its first time to start after the rebuild and need to know what is needed to do to ensure a proper breakin and startup for the first time.

i am told too many things and methods so im confused. i hear mostly that i need to fired it up and dont let it idle [2500 rpms] for 20 min. with only water i nthe radiator, then dump oil and do it again. after that if all seems well drive lightly for a few miles and dump oil again. then drive for a few hundred miles and dump oil another time. after that just drive it for 1k miles or so normal with just a lil boost and after that it should be able to see dyno time and then track time.

so what is the real way to start up a new built motor for the first time? i used plenty of assembly lube but i know since the block is .40 over itll make lots of heat on the first start up. and dont know how to prime the oil pump prior.theres a bit of sae 30 it in but not much ,only what i can pour in it.

any help would be great ghurus. :bigthumb:

 

[BamaDave]

This is being discussed in a current thread. My vote is this method without the cooldown periods.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Read the thread below and decide for yourself.

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=370851

David

 

[Hands On]

I agree with the drive it like you stole it method above.

See sticky in mkiv technical: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56491

 

[1chic2nv]

think its really needed to check valve lash over again and retourque the head bolts? on final assembly all of this was checked many times over. maybe o na stock rebuild but on a built motor? i also thought many oil changes were key in the first under 1k miles?

 

[jdc0589]

My motor isnt built, but when the new shortblock went in we filled it with non synthetic oil and all fluids (lubed and oiled where possible), started it up and varried the rpms from 2k-3.4k for 15mins. Dumped the oil, went and drove responsibly for an hour, dumped the oil again, drove for 700 miles fairly responsibly, then swapped out for synthetic.

 

[CURTISAKATOYO]

This is being discussed in a current thread. My vote is this method without the cooldown periods.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Read the thread below and decide for yourself.

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=370851

David

I clicked the first link, checked it out, and wow a ton of info, it all makes sense running it somewhat hard to seal 360 degrees of the rings, has some pictures of pistons in there to show the difference, I dont know if they are legit but apparently it does make a big difference breaking it in hard vs gentle.

 

[mike91t]

I prime any turbo engine with oil by using a pump (hand pump for filling rears works well) and connecting it to the turbo feed line. It allows me to fill the oil galleys and filter so there will be no dry start.

Mike

 

[Zylo]

I prime any turbo engine with oil by using a pump (hand pump for filling rears works well) and connecting it to the turbo feed line. It allows me to fill the oil galleys and filter so there will be no dry start.

Mike

I hope you are not using this as an alternative to assembly lube! In addition to, it sounds like a good idea :bigthumb:

The "Stomp it and romp it" method gets my vote!

 

[mike91t]

I hope you are not using this as an alternative to assembly lube! In addition to, it sounds like a good idea :bigthumb:

The "Stomp it and romp it" method gets my vote!

Redline assy lube is used of course! I should note that this is not an alternative to assy lube by any means, but will allow near instant oil pressure upon startup.

Mike

 

[TE27Levin]

IF the oil pump has been packed with petrolium jelly (to prevent cavitation), crank it with the fuel pump fuse pulled and the spark plugs out, oil the cylinders with a couple squrts of oil, till you have oil pressure, and bleed all the lines to the turbo/oil cooler "if applicable" and tighten em when they get oil. Drive it for 500 miles with a non synthetic 10w40 ( i recomend vavolene), with no sustained idleing or pounding the shit out of it, drive it varing the revs with out a sustained speed to break in the rings, dump the oil out of it and put in what you usually do. Then its shit kicking time.

 

[1chic2nv]

I prime any turbo engine with oil by using a pump (hand pump for filling rears works well) and connecting it to the turbo feed line. It allows me to fill the oil galleys and filter so there will be no dry start.

Mike

that :sadance: sounds like a good idea..

 

[HyperHoHo1]

If you want to do that, just disconnect the Crank Position Sensor...much easier that way

 

[SJ]

most stock engine builders such as jasper want you to hold the engine off idle such as at 2-3 k while varying rpms for approx 10 minutes...then drive it normally for about 100-200 miles or so once again varying the rpms...really all they ask is not to just go on the highway and cruise...you dont have to keep down and upshifting and to keep it off idle as much as possible.

I can see the beating on it method but every jasper motor we install we use the same method and never had any problems.