[Guest]

I had to replace the harmonic balancer/crank pulley a couple days ago. I have everything back together, and only have about 140ft/lbs on it. My problem is that the motor gives too much to tighten it anymore. The book says it needs to be 239ft/lbs. How in the hell am I supposed to get that???

Is there any easy way to do it other than pulling the radiator and using an impact wrench? Maybe like a special tool? If so where can I get it?

Thanks for your time...

-Steve

 

[turbotoy]

If you have a standard, throw the car in high gear and put on the e-brake. That has always worked great for me in the past. There is also a spanner wrench you can use to hold the harmonic balancer.

You really don't want to use an impact wrench to put it on. Even if an Acu-torque is used there really is no good way to apply an accurate torque.

 

[Guest]

You can try taking an old v-belt, wrapping it around the pulley, pinch it together firmly with vise-grips, then torque away. If you get a good enough grip on it, you should be able to get the torque you need.

Jeff

 

[Suprdave]

Is the Tranny Off?

If So, you can probably just Wedge something in between the Bell Housing and the Flywheels.

Doesn't Toyota Make a Tool to Block the Crank Assembly?

Putting is in 5th Gear CANT be good for the Transmission.

That will definately do the Job though, as long as the Driveshaft is still installed.

Suprdave

 

[Guest]

Putting is in 5th Gear CANT be good for the Transmission.

Why not?

 

[Guest]

You need a BIG ASS pipe and a breaker bar. Tighten as good as you can with torque wrench, then put the breaker bar on, slide the pipe on top of it, have a friend hold the 22mm firmly on the crank, pull on the pipe until you fully compress the flywheel flex, then lean on it hard

Make sure you put some protection on your fenders, because if that sucker slips off the crank bolt while you are on it, you're gonna have a field day replacing all bent/broken parts.

You'll never know if it's actually 240ft/lbs, but it'll be good enough. My torque wrench reads up to 150 as well.

 

[turbotoy]

Putting is in 5th Gear CANT be good for the Transmission.

Just about all the MKIV Supras I know of make at least 240 lb-ft of torque - it won't bother a thing.

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the replys.

Well, I dont know how tight I got it, but I got the car to move forward, up a slight incline, with the e-brake on in 1st. Should that do?


Also, is there a way to check and see if I have a stock clutch?

thanks again
-Steve

 

[Guest]

You're fine.

You can tell the color of the clutch pressure plate by looking thru the service opening, there are two of them, each located on the side of the bell housing. Remove two 12mm bolts, and look inside. Stock clutch is rust-colored. RPS is bright blue, Clutchmasters orange, ACT yellow....you get the idea.

 

[Guest]

Does the stock clutch ever chatter when engaging? My Supra has 90K on it, and I've noticed that the clutch always chatters a little when engaging. I guess my best bet is to pull the cover and check it out.

Thanks.

BTW monster, Have you ever seen the Stealth TT that looks like you 300zx?

-Steve

 

[Guest]

Steve, you need to adjust the clutch input shaft in order to prevent the engagement chatter. It's a metal rod on top of the clutch pedal, by the drivers side kick panel. It's gold in color. You loosen the 12mm locking nut, and turn it counterclokwise one turn or so, then tighten the locking nut......and try driving around, 1st-2nd. Trial and error until you get rid of the noise.

I never saw a similar Stealth....same rims and all?

 

[Guest]

thanks. I'll check it out

...Serperated at birth

Here is the link to the website:http://www.geocities.com/AmkreadGTO/Hybrid.html

This he is on the 3/S forum and Supraforums.... "AmkreadGTO"

-Steve

 

[Guest]

Damn, thats a nice Dodge! Me likes....