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Discussion Starter #1
I went to the track last night. The first launch I had gave me MASSIVE axel hop. After that run my shifter (yes I'm 6-speed) was vibrating horribly. I ran again and it went away. On the way home I stopped at a street racing spot and did a few runs and a few burn outs. My final run for the night was going to be against a WS-6 (HA!) I take it up to 5k rpm to warm up my tires. I drop the clutch POP! it was horrible.
There were 2 huge chunks of my diff case (I think) on the ground, a whole lotta diff fluid and a few smaller twisted peices of metal.

I'm only BPU+!

AZ Clutch
RPS Pressure Plate
Stock Flywheel
SP DP
Tanabe cat back
Akimoto (HA!) intake
GReddy FMIC
T-hose Mod

So I'm 90% sure I need to replace my LSD - any thoughts? I was thinking the TRD but how is that for drag racing? are there any other options? Why did TRD make different LSD's for the 97's and above?

- Matt
 

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Um no one makes a replacment pumpkin (the diff casing) you will have to buy a complete unit from Toyota :( (as far as the last time i checked)

If you want to upgrade the LSD as well, a majority of the available aftermarket LSD's are the same, so pick which one is priced right for you :)

Also there are some gear sets available in japan. If you like you can buy a used Pumpkin, swap the ring and pinion and LSD and you have a brand new diff :) (probably gona cost about the same as the replacement from toyota though)

Also the JDM Gear sets are 3.1, compared to our factory 3.27 (i think) so you will increase top end, but loose on the launch
 

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D u a l s t a r
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What were you running for tires and rims? Did you use water for the burnouts like you are suppost to?
 

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the trd diff is alittle stronger then the stock diff. go with a kazz, for a few hundred more bucks you will get a diff that is indestructable. the same thing happened to me 6 months ago. good luck.
 

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Getrag Gearhead
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Matt, I really recommend you get a diff from www.a-t-s-usa.com they make a carbon based lsd that is built to handle brute force. They do make one for the JZA80 6sp. However, from what you are saying you probbly did a whole lot of damage. I would recommend you remove the diff assembly from the car and take a few pics. PM or email the pics to me and I'll give you some suggestion as to what you may need to do to fix it. From what you have done you probably already destroyed the ring and pinion gears and the rear diff cover. At this point and time the bearings are probably full of metal fragments and would also requre replacement. replacing the cover, ring and pinion and lsd would probably cost more than a new assembly from Curt with a 30% off discount.

Joe.
 

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TRD diff
USDM 3.13:1 gears
JDM 3.27:1 gears
All necessary bearings and seals

In stock. 630-279-2265 ;)
 
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Discussion Starter #9
I agree, the trd clutch type differential is an excellent replacement.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Mary-Kate Olsen said:
What were you running for tires and rims? Did you use water for the burnouts like you are suppost to?
19X10 on the rear, Yokohama AVS Sports 295/35 19. Yes, I know how to do a burn out. I was at US41 drag strip when I got the massive axle hop that caused my shifter to vibrate. I should've stopped then but on the second run it went away. Oh well, live and learn. I actually did about 6 or so runs that night - not bad for only being there 2 hours.

- Matt

TRD LIMITED SLIP FOR 6SPD
PART #: 41301-JA800
1 IN STOCK
LIST: $909.00
SFMD: $731.25 (Supra Forums Member Discount)
I work at Elmhurst Toyota w/ Curt so it will cost me slightly less.

ATS LSD
Carbon: $1,415.00
Metal: $1,180.00

KAZZ
1.5way: 95,910 (yen? - lol)
Kazz website

OEM
PUMPKIN
PART #: 41301-14080
LIST: $2799.66
SFMD: $1969.27

COMPLETE DIFF ASSEM
PART #: 41110-14780
LIST: $2308.70
SFMD: $1623.94

Seems to me like the TRD is the way to go . . . Thoughts?

- Matt
 

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People who use the water box to do burnout with regular radial tires are :ghey:

Drag Racing 101 for newbz: After you do a burnout with your treaded radials and sling water all over your fenderwells, it drips all over the tires as you stage. The resulting slippery launch is quite amusing. Just a short dry burnout to clean off the radials will suffice.

Go back and read your 1988 Car Carft magazines for reference. :eek:
 

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FYRARMS said:
People who use the water box to do burnout with regular radial tires are :ghey:

Drag Racing 101 for newbz: After you do a burnout with your treaded radials and sling water all over your fenderwells, it drips all over the tires as you stage. The resulting slippery launch is quite amusing. Just a short dry burnout to clean off the radials will suffice.

Go back and read your 1988 Car Carft magazines for reference. :eek:
Do 325/50/15 drag radials count ;) :D
 

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D u a l s t a r
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FYRARMS said:
People who use the water box to do burnout with regular radial tires are :ghey:

Drag Racing 101 for newbz: After you do a burnout with your treaded radials and sling water all over your fenderwells, it drips all over the tires as you stage. The resulting slippery launch is quite amusing. Just a short dry burnout to clean off the radials will suffice.

Go back and read your 1988 Car Carft magazines for reference. :eek:
I was thinking he was running drag slicks.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
FYRARMS said:
Drag Racing 101 for newbz: After you do a burnout with your treaded radials and sling water all over your fenderwells, it drips all over the tires as you stage. The resulting slippery launch is quite amusing. Just a short dry burnout to clean off the radials will suffice.
Actually . . .
I roll into the waterbox to wet my tires. I get to the edge of the box and that's when I start to cycle my tires. Naturally because I don't have line lockers my car moves forward some. I then let off the brake and let my car move up to the staging line. If there is any water left on my car anywhere I'll buy you a choco taco. I dunno what kinda boxes you spin in - maybe they were flooded?
;)
- Matt
 

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Vendor
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i think the only other option is the auto rear
 
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