[chrono]

recently the lever that opens up the gas door has been difficult to pull up. well not really difficult, it has a lot of, i guess you can say play. how can i adjust it so its not to hard.

 

[lamer5]

recently the lever that opens up the gas door has been difficult to pull up. well not really difficult, it has a lot of, i guess you can say play. how can i adjust it so its not to hard.

i have the same problem

 

[LaDuce]

shit.

 

[SupraMkiii24]

mine bends when you pull it both levers do i have to get some more but I dont get it there too much.

 

[supragook]

yeah
same here.....bout to fuckin trash the whole set up...jus shave the whole fuckin thing.....lol
my damn door keeps gettin stuck too
same with my hatch

 

[Spun MkIII]

I just had the same problem myself. I actually filed off a little bit of the little black release on the back side of the fuel door. You'll know what I'm talking about when you have it open and have someone wiggle on the lever. There have been a couple of threads about this, so try a search for some better ideas.

 

[Keithh]

electronic release... the only way to go.

Remove that old crusty POS and step up to the 21st century.

Easy too. Simply run 12V+ into a button in the dash... a line out to the solenoid in the back... and finally a ground wire off the solenoid. There is plenty of room for this in the back... and you can get a cool button to put anywhere you want.

KeithH - no more cable release for me (still need to do the hatch).

 

[Nikorasu]

electronic release... the only way to go.

Remove that old crusty POS and step up to the 21st century.

Easy too. Simply run 12V+ into a button in the dash... a line out to the solenoid in the back... and finally a ground wire off the solenoid. There is plenty of room for this in the back... and you can get a cool button to put anywhere you want.

KeithH - no more cable release for me (still need to do the hatch).

Looking for a good way to do my hatch aswell, can't be that hard...

 

[Keithh]

not that hard at all actuallly... just need to get the solenoid and mount it... plenty of room for that... then cut the factory release cable and attach it to the solenoid. A simple wire from the front to the back and you are in business.

The solenoid will pull the same lever that the remote cable release does.

Once I do that I can ditch both levers in the drivers footwell.

Keithh

 

[altimasupra]

where do you get your solenoids from keith?

 

[chrono]

hey that sounds pretty f***in cool. you gotta post some pics or do some kind of write up for it. lookin forward to it. later

 

[Keithh]

Autoloc.com but their site seems to be down right now. They have a variety of items including suicide doors, shaved door handle kits, power window kits, etc. Look for the Solenoids and Actuators page (don't need the actuator).

Keith

 

[Guest]

Actually, you can get them from most Circuit Cities or Best Buys also, they use them for adding remote truck/hood (and sometimes lock) release on cars that have a cable set up.

Won't have to pay shipping, may be able to get them slightly cheaper and you take them home with you.

I did this same setup with my last project car (95 Probe GT). You can also set it up so that you can keep the lever and have both manual/remote release when the system is tied into an alarm system. This way, if the solonoid goes out, you can still use the manual levers until you get a new one in.

Also, talk to one of their installers about putting it in. It has to be almost a straight pull, if it's at an angle you run the risk of messing up either the solonoid, the connecting point or the cable.

If anyone wants I can try and make up a diagram on how it should be mounted.

 

[BoostMan03]

that would be really cool, i'm really interested in this. ( not that i have problems with mine, it just sounds like a fun thing to do)

 

[Keithh]

Solenoids do not have to be a straight pull... they can work just like your fuel door and hatch release - following a protective sheath (actually they even come with a sheath). Autoloc actually sells a 10' relocation kit so you can mount the solenoid inside the car and run the cable around and into the door.

When I did my fuel door I actually used the sheath that came with the car originally... just cut it down and passed the solenoid cable right through.

KeithH
89T

 

[Guest]

The thing to watch out for, if it isn't a straight pull, is the cable rubbing on anything. The cables are usually metal braid so they can eat their way through most other materials (plastic, rubber, weaker metals) and this includes the edges of the solonoid. While it isn't required that they have a straight pull it will increase the life of the solonoid, anything in it's path also, and keep you from having to get back in there any time soon.

This was a big concern in the Probe project, we put it in, at first, without it being in a straight line. Within 10 test runs you could see it starting to eat into the side of the solonoid (not much of course, but you could see some wear). Over the years this would have caused issues so I moved it. I had the car for more then 3 years after that (just sold it a few months ago) and the trunk release (along with the remote windows and other alarm goodies) never failed.

 

[MixMasterP2k3]

word

I have to keep my lever up so that I can jiggle the hatch open, so I keep a rock under the lever to hold it up. Works all the time .