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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, i went to a shop because timing my car with a light never seems to get it close enough. So i took it to a shop, they couldnt get it to -10 so they put it at -11 stating it was currently at -20. so i go to start the car and it barely starts, the rm starts jumping like its on accid below the 1,400 mark, and then the car died and wouldnt start back up. now aside form myr anting on how gay the hsop is and how they need a bullet to the face, i have the unorthodox adjustable cam gears. nothings wrong with them they aren't slipping or anything. my question is, could it be that teh timing can no longer be set at -10 becaose of them? or did teh shop do it wrong and charge me $100 for nothing. the part that gets me is how they got it back to the parking lot? it doesnt run, stepping on the throttle just makes the car stall. what should i do?
 

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lol...sounds like the distributor is off a tooth, or the gears arent dial in correctly.

NA-T right? What size HG ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
WhiteBlazze said:
lol...sounds like the distributor is off a tooth, or the gears arent dial in correctly.

NA-T right? What size HG ?
actually just NA, so stock HG, should have been na-t by now but i got the worst luck =,(
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
SupraStud said:
man..im in the same boat as you right now... im also waiting for the fix..
did it randomly start doing it? or did it happen after your timing was done? usually if that sort of thing randomly happens its the mass air flow meter.
 

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Did you jump the diagnostic port? If your cars barely running now, the timing is way off. If even with a timing light it doesn't show you can't rely on it.

Just look at the bolt that you use to turn the dist. There should be an indent created by it from being in the same spot for so long (10 degrees). Just try to get the nut to match up in the same spot and you should be around 10 give or take.
 

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its not THAT hard to set the timing... something is fucked up or whoever you paid 94 dollars to do it :lol: doesnt know wtf they are doing
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
michaelvanle said:
Did you jump the diagnostic port? If your cars barely running now, the timing is way off. If even with a timing light it doesn't show you can't rely on it.

Just look at the bolt that you use to turn the dist. There should be an indent created by it from being in the same spot for so long (10 degrees). Just try to get the nut to match up in the same spot and you should be around 10 give or take.
problem is timing has never been right with this distributer
 
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man ive checked my MAF..unless it just shot its wad. it did start to mess up before the timing . i noticed my belt was frailed and changed it a few days later. so i guess ill try and find a another MAF meter to see if taht will fix my problem..
 

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HydroMatrix said:
problem is timing has never been right with this distributer
I'd just try to put it in the center as close as you can and see if the car runs.

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Did you jump the diag port?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
michaelvanle said:
I'd just try to put it in the center as close as you can and see if the car runs.

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Did you jump the diag port?
its still at the shop, and i have a feeling their gonna charge me even more just to put my car back to how it was and ill be out 300$ and no progress what so ever
 

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bad distributor maybe?
 

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HydroMatrix said:
snip... i have the unorthodox adjustable cam gears. nothings wrong with them they aren't slipping or anything. my question is, could it be that teh timing can no longer be set at -10 becaose of them? or did teh shop do it wrong and charge me $100 for nothing. the part that gets me is how they got it back to the parking lot? it doesnt run, stepping on the throttle just makes the car stall. what should i do?
I'm no expert on those adjustable cam gears, or know anything about how or when yours were installed, but the fact that you can't get the timing adjusted in the range you want by fiddling with the distributor suggests that the timing belt was installed incorrectly (perhaps when the cg were put on). A few teeth off even with stock cam gears can make a world of difference.
 

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Like someone said already check that the distributor isn't off a tooth.
Pull the cam cover and turn the crank until the mark on the crank pully is at 0 and the two match marks on the cam gears line up with the indents on the plate behind the cam gears. If they don't line up then there is a problem.
If they line up then the cams and crank are in the proper position and it is the distributor that may be off. Pull the distributor cap and see where the distributor rotor is pointing. With the cams and crank all at 0 the rotor should be just a little past where the #1 plug wire sits. Honestly if it's at -11 degrees it should still run fine. Make sure they didn't totally pull the distributor and put it back in screwy.
I had my timing set at 0 after I broke my timing belt until I had it retimed and the car ran fine so it may be that something else is wrong.
 

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kbprice said:
Like someone said already check that the distributor isn't off a tooth.
Pull the cam cover and turn the crank until the mark on the crank pully is at 0 and the two match marks on the cam gears line up with the indents on the plate behind the cam gears. If they don't line up then there is a problem.
If they line up then the cams and crank are in the proper position and it is the distributor that may be off. Pull the distributor cap and see where the distributor rotor is pointing. With the cams and crank all at 0 the rotor should be just a little past where the #1 plug wire sits. Honestly if it's at -11 degrees it should still run fine. Make sure they didn't totally pull the distributor and put it back in screwy.
I had my timing set at 0 after I broke my timing belt until I had it retimed and the car ran fine so it may be that something else is wrong.

good write up, :bigthumb:
I've been meaning to check my timing and turn the distributor to pull it back alittle (since I don't have the MSD6btm anymore)
 

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You may also want to check the crankshaft positioning sensor, there is a connector under the intake runners, nearer to the firewall. I had the wire come out of this and cause timing to jump all over the place. Once that was taken care of, I could finally set dead at 10.

This probably isnt whats wrong with yours, but its a 2-minute check.
 

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^^ That is only for OBD2 GE setups. If your OBD1, you will not have a crank shaft position sensor
 

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Are you sure about that? I am OBD1 and assumed it to be that, and it fit as it seemed to cure my timing problem? What is it then?
 

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The crank position sensor is mounted onto the side of the oil pump and read the ring gear that sits just behind the timing gear that the timing belt is driven by via the crank.


On the 93-95 Oil pumps for the NA, there is no opening for the sensor to be mounted. Only on the 96-98 NA oil pumps do they have the opening to mount the crank position sensor.



Your timing issue is either faulty cam gears, timing belt not installed properlly or jumped a tooth, distributor going bad, not jumping the terminal pins prior to setting the timing, bad ecu, bad #1 plug wire, bad timing light, bad distributor rotor ( button ), or even the outer ring of the crank pulley has slide over and is not correct anymore.


The timing isn't going to hit 10degrees each time. You just want to get the light to pop on around the 10degree mark as best as possible. The TSRM states that you want 10degrees +/- 2degrees.
 

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What is the thing I am referring to then? It definitely is related to timing as it fixed my issue. It is a connector that goes into the block under the lower runners, somewhere around the fifth cylinder.
 
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