Supra Forums banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So you folks have helped me determine that I am to rebuild my motor instead of replacing it. I have sent the block off to be refinished. Now comes the question, what parts do I need for 350-400 horse? What are you doing for power, how reliable is it, and how much did it cost?

Do I need forged pistons?

What kind of boost can I push through the CT26?

What Head Gaskets do I need to use?

I dont know much about the Turbo Setup. If I was to get a T3/T4 turbo, what supporting mods will I need?

Thanks for the imput that I am sure you will give!

Chris
 

· I gots deep pockets cuz
Joined
·
1,241 Posts
Degree you chiming in here soon
 

· Banned
Joined
·
1,120 Posts
So you folks have helped me determine that I am to rebuild my motor instead of replacing it. I have sent the block off to be refinished. Now comes the question, what parts do I need for 350-400 horse? What are you doing for power, how reliable is it, and how much did it cost?

Do I need forged pistons?

What kind of boost can I push through the CT26?

What Head Gaskets do I need to use?

I dont know much about the Turbo Setup. If I was to get a T3/T4 turbo, what supporting mods will I need?

Thanks for the imput that I am sure you will give!

Chris
Hey Chris,
My build cost about $4500 which included all the custom parts to push over 500rwhp. If that is your ultimate goal I would go with a 57 Trim CT unclipped.

For that kind of power internals are not neccesary but I would still do ARP's though out, thicker MHG, shot peened rods and clevite bearings.

For HG it does depend on how much has been taken off the block and head in the past or how much it will take to bring it back to straight. The machine shop should have this spec and be able to tell you the thickness of MHG to get. You want around stock or maybe even a little less compression when boost higher.

Supporting mods for the power level:
-lex afm/550's
-Walbro
-AFPR with lines
-Tuning devices, s-afc and a wideband
-IC piping and IC
-DP and Exhaust
-Intake Filter, like K&N
-Boost controller
-BOV
-the list can go on to do it properly just depends on how much you have to spend!

HTH,
Seth
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,403 Posts
my current goals are similar. I am just finishing my rebuild and I'm probably at about $3500 or so (on the engine, more on other things). I haven't added anything speed-enhancing so far except the basic BPU stuff because I want to be 100% sure it runs correctly stock before I start messing with it. I'm going .020 over JE forged pistons, cleavite 77 bearings, HKS MHG with ARP studs, ARP rod bolts, and I needed a new crankshaft also so I had that indexed as well as balanced along with the entire rest of the rotating assembly. I also redid the oil system with an RX7 oil cooler and 8-AN lines (JIC fittings technically but effectively the same thing given the application). I went with the comp cam valve springs and had a full valve job done as well as some work on the cams. I also replaced all the messed up wiring by soldering new connections. the only things I didn't replace were the alternator because it's almost brand new and the water pump because it's also reasonably new and still in great condition. I'm confident this engine will probably take 700-800hp if I really wanted to go there although I don't think I'd rev it over 7k ever without doing some additional valve work. This is what you should really be thinking about doing if you want a reliable car that will do 400hp. In conclusion, be sure that your engine is PERFECT in addition to just having stronger internals.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top