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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off, I have been honored that i have owned over the last 6 years a total of 3 mk3's and have been sucked in to mk3 craze since the begining I first had my first one back in 2000. however most of them except one, didn't make it to live its life to its 20 year mark (all three where 87). The last one I had which was in black with grey leather interior made it to its prime and was kept basically stock except for the intake and exhaust. It wasn't that long ago that had I to bid farewell to her since I had a very generous man offer me $5,000 for her since she was in great shape, and everything was original (I bought here for 2,500 back in 2003 and i let her go since I lost my job and was in a financial grind so I had a great deal for her). Now since I got a job again and have been saving up for my next project, I don't want to mess up again and this time get a better gain than what I did last time. Here is the list of startoff upgrades that I think might help me out but I want to hear from you all of what you think is good and not just that, add in to what I might need in case I didn't list it below. Here it is:

[email protected] FIPK Upgrade
BIC divorced downpipe
3" exhaust system ( thinking about either greddy or HKS )
Fluidyne radiator
dual electric cooling fans
rebuilt ct-26
HKS steel head gasket or maybe a cometic (need opinion on this issue)
suspension upgrade (have my prevous suspension from car #2)
Supra mk4 wheels
rewire of knock sensors plugs and replace knock sensors


Now i want to hear from you all to see what you think about this, I need feedback so when I get my next mk3 I can go ahead and start off right. The car is gonna start off on stock boost for now on the CT so I can get used to the car again. I haven't driven an mk3 in over 4 months now so I think that would be a good startoff point for to go by. Later on if everything goes good, I am gonna go ahead and maybe get an e-manage or equivalent with a set of either 550 or 720cc injectors with either the lexus gs400 air flow meter or the infiniti maf. speaking of which, is possible to fit that infinti maf to the supra? if so is there a big difference to the performance to the car? You all let me know, your feedback would be greatly apreciated!
 

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Destroyer of Turbos
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seems like youve had a tough time with the mk3 but welcome back to the supra game. your list of mods looks good so far. the only one i caution you on is the elec fans as some people have had issues with them and the stock clutch fan does a fine job really. g luck man!
 

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Street Sleeper
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The only thing I would add to that list would be Maft pro and a wide band o2 sensor and you will need an uprated fuel pump also.
 

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BMM
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^ yeah. some fuel and a tuning device for sure.

you can go with the dual electric fans if you really want to, but the stocker cools VERY efficiently and can go untouched. you should probably pick up some ARP head bolts/studs to go along with the head gasket. other then that everything looks good!

good luck!
-Adam
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
damn I knew I forgot something, lol :rofl: anyway since now the fuel pump and maft is in play with the list of mods I placed down, what would be the rwhp that you guys think i would be on stock boost? I am maybe estimating maybe in the 300 mark but not too sure, anyone out there with this setup that dynoed and know the rwhp and rwtq of there car? let me know whats up, I want to get an idea of what I am gonna be dealing with once I do this upgrade once I get the car.
 

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shadowwolfsupra said:
damn I knew I forgot something, lol :rofl: anyway since now the fuel pump and maft is in play with the list of mods I placed down, what would be the rwhp that you guys think i would be on stock boost? I am maybe estimating maybe in the 300 mark but not too sure, anyone out there with this setup that dynoed and know the rwhp and rwtq of there car? let me know whats up, I want to get an idea of what I am gonna be dealing with once I do this upgrade once I get the car.

Stock RWHP for a healthy car is 200, you will not see much of an increase untill you turn up the boost. If you run up to fuel cut around 11 - 13 psi (depending on lots of things) you should be around 270 - 280.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
oh by the way, if I where to use my stock fan, is it possible to keep it running without the fan clutch? I would like to know this because I want to keep the fan constantly running and at the same time not deal with worrying about the clutch going bad. I am possibly gonna be fabricating my own shroud since you all know that sometimes we go through the hell of those shrouds breaking after a while.
 

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239RWHP @ 9PSI
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shadowwolfsupra said:
I had a very generous man offer me $5,000 for her
:kekegay:


but you should upgrade your ct26.. heard only good things about it. :bigthumb:
 

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if you get the DP are you gonna get a catback? usually the divorced dp will raise your boost to about 10 or so without a boost controller.
i have no idea what your talking about with the Infinity maf? never ever heard of that.
when you say rebuilt Ct26 do you mean stock or upgraded? might as well get an upgraded one. might want a AFPR. 720cc injectors with the ct26...hmm...i have no idea why you would do that? not needed at all. 550's are good for about 500rwhp you wont be making that on the ct26 upgraded.
get a clutch for sure.

have no idea what your talking about with the stock clutch fan and the clutch going out? but the clutch fan spins all the time with the motor. i say keep the stock fan

Fix everything that is broken or needs fixed on the car first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
first off, the 720cc injectors are there so I can get a good amount of fuel to the motor if tuned properly. The thing is I am afraid of leaning out because that is what happened to the first two mk3's that I had and that caused me some major problems after that. Also the infiniti maf, I heard rumors that it supposedly worked for our cars as well but I wanted to verify with you all before i had something go wrong but that got cleared out quickly with the maft pro. About the ct-26, when I meant rebuilt, I was thinking of going with a 60-1 upgrade for it, sorry guys. I was thinking that for the exhaust system, I would take it to this place that i know that does mandrel bending and make me a custom 3" piping with no cats and maybe go with a hks dragger muffler. of course, once I get that done, a clutch is in order. does anyone got an idea of what kind of clutch I should go for? I was thinking of clutch master but I not to sure what to get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
oh, forgot to tell you all that I work for a distribution warehouse that sells OBX parts. I got the front facing intake manifold for the 7m-gte that everyone has been talking about and I have been thinking of using that as well on my next project. what I was thinking though is that if i get that, would I have to get the throttle body from the 1jz or 2jz or is it ok to go with the throttle body of the mk3? I am thinking that I have no choice but to use the linkage from the jz so that is out of the way. beside that, I need an opinion on this intake manifold before I get the idea of using it.
 

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I Love Lamp...
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driftedmk3 said:
but you should upgrade your ct26.. heard only good things about it. :bigthumb:
Well, no offense then but you are an idiot if all you have heard is good things. ;)

Ok guys, im not sure exactly how far this guy wants to go for the first mods, but fuel and tuning are not startoff upgrades in my mind, neither is an upgraded turbo.

If you had a divorced downpipe, test pipe, 3" catback, intercooler and hardpipes im sure you could be around 12psi right there without a boost controller. Throw on a bov for some insurance too.

I recommend a catch can since its cheap and eliminates the pcv system.

The fluidyne radiator is pretty overpriced, its a great upgrade no doubt, but you are paying $450 for a single core when the csf is cheaper, larger and 2 cores.

Gauges are the best mod to get right away. Boost gauge, Egt gauge and oil temp are what i would suggest. A/F gauges are worthless if its not wideband, if you can fit a fourth id make it a toss up between oil pressure and water temp but arent horribly needed.

If you do the headgasket be sure to use Arp hardware for it. Im assuming you know this but i dont want to see any mistakes. Cometic or Hks is fine.

Address all of that stuff, and get yourself some good rotors and pads. NOT powerslot or powerstop! Porterfield pads are good with brembo rotors. Depending if your lazy you might consider a turbo timer. If you want i can lay out the next step after all that.

Tim
 

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clutch would totally depend on your power goals. tell us how much power you plan on getting we will tell you what is good for it. :)

PICS of the FFIM from OBX!!! or ban! :lol:
tell OBX there LSD doesnt even fit so they need to stop making it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
First off, tim, I thank you allot on that advice you just sent out to me, that is actually a better way to start off from what I have heard so far. I should have added the brake upgrade into the list. I was thinking about using the HKS ssq for my blowoff valve and use that to replace the stock bypass valve. What I want to know is that if it is a good idea to get the adapter to route the blowoff valve to bypass back to the intake intstead of blowing off to the atmosphere? Also, for the intercooler, I knew some guy that used this intercooler that came off from a cargo truck (forgot the name if it, I think its called MPR or something like that) and told me that it works good. I am really iffy about that and I am not too sure if I want to use that on my car since its big enough that that it even goes as high up into the bumper where the top grill insert goes on the 87-88 models. Not just that, the end tanks seem a little small compared to other intercoolers that i have seen so far. Now spoolme, I got to find a way to get the pic up becuase the web site is down for construction. Beside that, the rear diff from obx is no longer supplied anymore here where I work becuase it was just not making enough sales here in the east coast. Beside that, I seriously wouldn't even use it anyway, or stock diffs are fine without them from what I have heard. Oh for the powerband that i want to start off with, I was thinking of starting off between the low or mid 300hp range. What kind of clutch should I go for for that range? let me know
 

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I Love Lamp...
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Ok ill try and break it down let me know if i miss anything,

Bov: I like the SSQV and it is my personal bov of choice also, re-routing it is the absolute best way to go about it. No chance of stalling and no metered air that will escape.

Intercooler: For awile people were using truck intercoolers and such as a much cheaper alternative to the brand name ones. But lately the Ebay intercoolers have proven themselves very much useful and there are so many different size variations to choose from, i would suggest that. The ebay intercoolers are the newer and improved truck intercooler upgrade of today.

Clutch: RPS sport clutch would be great for that area of power, great clutch too and also cost efficient.
 

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BMM
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shadowwolfsupra said:
first off, the 720cc injectors are there so I can get a good amount of fuel to the motor if tuned properly. The thing is I am afraid of leaning out because that is what happened to the first two mk3's that I had and that caused me some major problems after that. Also the infiniti maf, I heard rumors that it supposedly worked for our cars as well but I wanted to verify with you all before i had something go wrong but that got cleared out quickly with the maft pro. About the ct-26, when I meant rebuilt, I was thinking of going with a 60-1 upgrade for it, sorry guys. I was thinking that for the exhaust system, I would take it to this place that i know that does mandrel bending and make me a custom 3" piping with no cats and maybe go with a hks dragger muffler. of course, once I get that done, a clutch is in order. does anyone got an idea of what kind of clutch I should go for? I was thinking of clutch master but I not to sure what to get.

so you dont wanna go lean.. 720 injectors are just overkill. 550s will work just fine for your power goals.
as for the ct-26 here is the FAQ thread on rebuilding/upgrading the CT-26 . i would personally only go with the .57 trim if i were to take this route. they last much longer and can still put out some very nice power to the wheels. a .57 trim looks to be one of the best suited turbos for your goals.
that sounds like a nice exhaust set up, i would continue to persue that.

selz202 said:
Well, no offense then but you are an idiot if all you have heard is good things. ;)

Ok guys, im not sure exactly how far this guy wants to go for the first mods, but fuel and tuning are not startoff upgrades in my mind, neither is an upgraded turbo.

If you had a divorced downpipe, test pipe, 3" catback, intercooler and hardpipes im sure you could be around 12psi right there without a boost controller. Throw on a bov for some insurance too.

I recommend a catch can since its cheap and eliminates the pcv system.

The fluidyne radiator is pretty overpriced, its a great upgrade no doubt, but you are paying $450 for a single core when the csf is cheaper, larger and 2 cores.

Gauges are the best mod to get right away. Boost gauge, Egt gauge and oil temp are what i would suggest. A/F gauges are worthless if its not wideband, if you can fit a fourth id make it a toss up between oil pressure and water temp but arent horribly needed.

If you do the headgasket be sure to use Arp hardware for it. Im assuming you know this but i dont want to see any mistakes. Cometic or Hks is fine.

Address all of that stuff, and get yourself some good rotors and pads. NOT powerslot or powerstop! Porterfield pads are good with brembo rotors. Depending if your lazy you might consider a turbo timer. If you want i can lay out the next step after all that.

Tim
good info right there. deffinetly gonna want some gauges. all the ones he listed are good to look into.
a turbo timer is also a nice little investment that i would reccomend. keeps things all nice and clean the easy way :D

selz202 said:
Ok ill try and break it down let me know if i miss anything,

Bov: I like the SSQV and it is my personal bov of choice also, re-routing it is the absolute best way to go about it. No chance of stalling and no metered air that will escape.

Intercooler: For awile people were using truck intercoolers and such as a much cheaper alternative to the brand name ones. But lately the Ebay intercoolers have proven themselves very much useful and there are so many different size variations to choose from, i would suggest that. The ebay intercoolers are the newer and improved truck intercooler upgrade of today.

Clutch: RPS sport clutch would be great for that area of power, great clutch too and also cost efficient.
Ebay intercoolers FTW!
I would also go with the RPS sport clutch if i were you. overall a great buy

as for BOVs go... the HKS SSQV is one of the more popular BOVs out there today. i am currently running a Turbo XS RFL, and it works fine and is DAMN LOUD. however, the sound just does not compare to that of the HKS or Greddy BOVs.
 

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DON'T BLAME ME!!!
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upgrades

Yeah, the .57 trim is a good choice for up to 400whp. 550's are all you need. If you do the .57 trim, and you get the BIC DDP, don't have your exhaust side clipped! It will make the turbo laggier! Just ask me! LOL! Still hits pretty good by 3000rpm, but it would have been quicker, had I not opted for the 10 degree exhaust clip. The BIC DDP is really loud, keep that in mind. Randy also sells one that dumps back into the exhaust. The problem with the DDP at low boost is, you can't really jump on it without opening the wastegate, not always cool!
.57Trim=fun! for a bargain! I paid $600.00 for mine, and $50.00 for the braided oil/coolant lines (highly recommended)
 
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