[95 Dawg]

If anyone on the list has a N/A shop manual, can you do me a favor, and look up the igniter test, and post it back here. My dawg has been down for almost 2 weeks now... I'm getting desperate.

 

[Guest]

This URL will get you to the MKIII TSRM page for the ignitor test. Don't know if they are the same.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/ig/IG_15.html

 

[DaveH]

Hey man, I went through the shop manual last nite, and there really aren't any tests for the ignitor (other than making sure it was getting power). If no spark, there tests for the coil and for the distributor. If the coil and distributor (and ecu) passed all the test the manual said to try a new ignitor.

 

[95 Dawg]

Well... my new igniter, or ignition control module, as Hi-Lo calls it, will be in today. So far my dawg has been down for about 2 1/2 weeks now with this problem. If the new igniter doesn't fix it, I will have just about given up all hope.

 

[Guest]

So far my dawg has been down for about 2 1/2 weeks now with this problem. If the new igniter doesn't fix it, I will have just about given up all hope.

Before you go after it with gasoline and matches let us know, there's a few small parts I need

Good luck with the fix

Rob_O

 

[Guest]

95Dawg,

If the MKIV is like the MKIII, the Igniter and Coil are an integrated unit: perhaps Hi-Lo's mysterious "Ignition Control Module"

 

[DaveH]

Nope, ignitor is seperate on the mkiv. It's over on the drivers side strut tower.

 

[95 Dawg]

Well... new igniter is in, and still no fire... my power tester shows power going into the distributer, but not going to the plugs. The plug test shows no spark what so ever. So far I have replaced the coil, the cap and rotor, and the igniter... SOMEBODY HELP ME! I am pretty much tapped out for ideas, and tx2k2 is in 2 days! I am about 2 seconds away from taking my boot to the side of this *@#% car!

ANY IDEAS?

Thanks
-Zach

 

[Guest]

Easy, 95Dawg. If you ever read Shibumi, by Travanian, you would know you only kick the side of Volvos.

On a more serious note, if you have spark to the center of the distributor, and none to the plug wires, you have pretty much isolated where the fault lies. I don't know what's inside your distributor, but my MKIII has a very large rotor that makes contact with the tits that lead through the cap to the plug wires. That part is almost fool proof, and you already know you have no spark there. So backtracking, there is a spring-loaded contact in the middle of the cap, which conducts current from the HT lead to the rotor. This contact can get pushed up into the cap, and the spring sticks. If you can't push the pin up and have it pop back out, this could be the trouble. It has to make contact with the center of the rotor.

However, it could be that the distributor body has gone bad, not the cap. There are electronics inside the distributor that I do not think are replaceable. You may need to buy a distributor and put it in.

You may want to put this question on the MKIV list also.

I think you are almost there. Keep the faith.

 

[95 Dawg]

Yea... I know the spring loaded tip your talking about, it seems to be working just fine. The problem is somewhere in the distributer. We get power all the way until the distributer, where we don't get anything after that. How do I go about taking that entire distributer assembly off? I thought its a exhaust cam driven distirbuter.... will I have to get that far into the motor? I don't have a shop manual yet, so... I'm pretty much flying in the dark...

please hand me a flashlight....


-Zach

 

[Guest]

I have only a MKIII manual to go with my car. If the MKIV.com web site is back you might check there. The other option is supras.com tech section.

If your set up is like mine, the distributor takes the place of the turbo's cam sensor. There should be a locking nut that you loosen to adjust timing. Taking this nut off should allow you to pull the distrubutor. There is an O-ring on the shaft inside that seals the oil from the engine, and of course the big o-ring at the base of the cap. I am guessing you have to take the whole thing out of the engine, and put the new one in. You can mark the current relative postion of the rotor, because you don't want to get 180 degrees off. You might email DaveH and he could give you better advice.

The MKIII details are at

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/ig/IG_17.html