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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We attempted to install the Tanabe Downpipe again but could not get the stripted nut out near the 2nd cat. We tried to get a Dremel up there but there is no clearance for it. We tried almost everything and nothing work. Can anyone give me any advice before I take it to Motorsport Dynamics and have them take out the who manifold and charge me a arm and a leg?
 

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BIG DICK BANDIT
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322 Posts
Lock some vicegrips on it as hard as you can then tap the vices with a hammer. Works every time for me.
 

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Lets go Nets
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2,956 Posts
ooh i had the same problem, hacksaw, was my fix.

Brett
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Brett-can you give me a detail advice on how you hacksawed it out?

I think it might be the same bolt that you had a problem with. The other 2 were easy for me but there was one that is supposely tighten with 50lbs of tq and that is the one with the totally stripted nut.

Supradoopa-what is a breaker bar?
 

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Premium Member
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5,991 Posts
A breaker bar is just an extension, or a socket wrench with a longer handle so you can get more leverage. If you don't have one, use a piece of pipe and slide it over the end of the wrench, and use it for extra leverage.

However, doing this could also break the bolt, so I would use this only if you can live without the bolts.

CraigK
 

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Tom Henderson
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1,237 Posts
a breaker bar is just a long kinda think bar with a thing for ur socket wrench..it helped me out a couple of times..haha..you can get one at any hardware store..or just get ur biggest wrench and get a pipe to fit over it for more leverage..

-Tommy
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok thanks for the reply. I guess that didn't work either because that was the 1st thing the guy tried.
 

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BIG DICK BANDIT
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322 Posts
VICEGRIPS
 

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Registered
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110 Posts
I used a stripped nut socket. Worked like a charm... should have used em on all those crappy nuts.


Rob
95 TT BPU
 

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Tom
Joined
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46 Posts
I used a torch and melted it off. I tried heating it up and pounding a 12pt socket on it but that didn't work. So melting and buying new bolts was the easiest.
*peace*
Tom
 

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Under Construction
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763 Posts
This is in case the link isn't valid:
Craftsman 10 pc. Impact Grade Bolt-Out™ Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover
$59.99


Sears Item #00952165000
Mfr. Model #0300SRS
 

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900 BHP Club :)
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4,934 Posts
Instead of WD40 or Liquid Wrench I would suggest PB Blaster. The other 2 don't work nearly as good.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok I took it to Muffler Tec and they took a shot at it as well and nothing. Because it is the bolt that is up where they can't reach it they didn't know what to do either. I asked them if they can torch it out but they said it might be to dangerous. Here is everything we tried

Dremel- can't reach high enough
Smaller socket- just strip it even more
Torch- can blow things up not safe
Vice grip- no clearance for it

To the guy that melted it off isnt that dangerous?
And I refuse to take it to Motorsports Dynamic where they would charge me $75 and hour and it would take them 4-5 hours taking out the manifold, then taking it to a machine shop, then putting it back. Im not gonna pay $700 plus just to get my peace of shit downpipe on.

Im so despret for something that will work
Help Help Help Help
 

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Registered
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110 Posts
BXR SUPRA said:
This is in case the link isn't valid:
Craftsman 10 pc. Impact Grade Bolt-Out™ Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover
$59.99


Sears Item #00952165000
Mfr. Model #0300SRS


SERIOUSLY


WD40 + These worked for me! Actually came out with ease!
 

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Registered
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293 Posts
Good luck... I spent several hours replacing the studs and nuts on the top side of the DP. A stud installer/remover saved the day in my case. Of course, you've got to remove those stripped nuts first!
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I had a hell of a time with mine. We got a torch and heated the piss out of it. You'll be safe dude, trust me. Also let the nuts sit in Fluid Film/WD-40/Liquid Wrench... anything for a few hours. We also used a stripped nut/bolt remover.

After all this we bought new studs from Toyota and replaced all three. Trust me you'll get it out, something is bound to work.
 
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