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Discussion Starter #1
The car has already been modified with a lot of the things I was going to do anyway. Dump pipe, boost controler, turbo timer but the master warining light is on all the time and the dealer told me that the check enging soon light code is set in the computer but they disconnected the bulb. He also said with the dump pipe there is no more o2 sensor and he also said it has no mass air sensor ( I think that is what he called it ) and this is why the chech engine soon light is on. It has an aftermarket intake. Also he said the reason why the trac off light is flashing off and on is because there is something worng with the left front speed sensor and that costs about $200 for parts and 100 labor. He tested the engine compression and they were almost all exactly 180 and a new engine has about 190. There is an aftermarket EGT gauge in it, aftermarket boost (both HKS i believe) Anyway it seems to run VERY strong except for one time when it shifted from 1st to 2nd before it shifted I heard a pop and felt a loss of power for an instant as it shifted. Also the guy I am buying it from said it will not get rubber when it hits second unless I swich to manual mode and shift it manually. Is all this true from what you guys know cause I don't know if it really has problems or not? The asking price is $24900. Does this sound like an ok deal with all the aftermarket parts and it also has a stillen nose and side body kit. Please reply.

SwamiBob
 

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Discussion Starter #2
One more thing

One more thing, if the trac fuse is pulled would that make the trac off light flash? I just noticed on my automatic trans question someone replied and said with it out I would get a loud pop right before it shifts:D like what I said happened in my original note. Thanks for all replies cause I don't wanna make a $25000 mistake!!!
 

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First of all, I believe it is a "downpipe" and not a "dump" pipe.

I really resisted not hitting that one with all I had.

Sounds somewhat fishy to me.. when the trac fuse is pulled the light stays on solid. (I have a 94TT and not a 97) Mine stays solid and have never seen it flash... A flashing 'trac' light is new to me.

I don't believe the engine will run without the Mass Air sensor??
Anyone??

Anyone who "fixes" a problem by pulling out a warning bulb is gonna raise a flag with me.

The next thing that makes me wonder is the price.. $25K for a 97??

That seems like too good to be true if it is in good mechanical shape.

No one would give away a perfectly good 97TT for $25K. Remember that when making a purchase.

Just my 2 cents!

Thomas Kenyon
 

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I'd watch out with that car...

If the car has a VPC, then it doesn't have a MAF. And, on a 97 automatic car the trac light *does* flash when you take out the trac fuse. The trac light is solid when you disable the trac with the in-cabin button and tac light on.

Another thing, the pop sound may just be the BOV venting during shifts. But this will only happen if you have the trac fuse *in*. There is a trac butterfly in the throttle body that closes during shifts...this saves your tranny and also vents Boost from the IC system.

It is not recommended to drive around full-time with the trac fuse out...it will prematurely destroy your tranny from on-boost shifts!!! I only take out the trac fuse when I'm preparing for a *big* challenge...most of the time it is in and I just disable it with the in-cabin button. It is not totally disabled at this point, the trac butterfly still closes during shifts.

If the seller has been driving around without the trac fuse out for awhile I would *run* from the car. A new tranny is $5k...could be the reason for the pop noise and also the selling price.

When I sought out a Supra, I looked at two cars...a modified and stock. I decided to get the stock car since it had not been tampered with, wires were not cut, and the owner took good care of the car. The modified car was very rough and beaten on real good. The owner had the trac fuse out for over 1 year. I checked the tranny fluid and it was Black...it should be red! And, they told me a bunch of racing stories...I ran from it!

Supras are great cars...but just like any car, it requires proper maintenance and care. They can and do break.

So why not start with a solid foundation and then build from there instead of taking over someone elses problem and paying to fix it.

It may be Okay, but these are just words of caution. I do not like the sound of a few things you've described...personally, I'd really have to know the person and/or know how to check out the car.

Since you are new to Supras, you do not know what to look for. You may try finding someone that knows a bit more about Supras...maybe from this forum, that can look at the car with you.

Do not get over-excited about *ANY* car purchase. This is a big decision and you're best taking your time. Do not let the seller push you into buying it...if they are really pushing you, then that may also be a red flag.

Just my 2 cents!

Good Luck and take your time!
 

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Sounds pretty normal...

On a '97 Auto (like mine) the TRAC light flashes when you pull out the fuse. The O/D OFF light also has some activity.

The downpipe will make the MIL and CE lights stay lit.

The rear O2 sensor doesn't do anything but check for the existence of a catalytic converter. If there are no other codes in the computer, the car is fine.

And about the price: I got a better deal on my bone stock pristine '97 Auto (at a dealer), so you should be fine as long as the title is clean.
 

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All of the warning signs on that car are the same on mine when A) there is a downpipe eliminating catalytic converters and B) when the Traction control fuse is pulled.

The car sounds fine, dealers don't know a damn thing about supras for the most part.

Brittany
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well I appreciate all of the replies but the SOB sold the car out from under me after I agreed to pay half of the checkout at the dealership and I already had a $19,000 cashiers check drafted and was going to make the final arrangements this morning. He said someone else came in with a cashiers check for the car this morning. I guess Brandon Motor Sports is not a reputable dealer. I guess they will sell a car out from anyone even if they had a verbal deal with a customer.

BTW, is there any difference in the Supra TT 1994-1998 models besides the computer in the '97-'98 models? I was thinking about finding one 1994-1995 to try and save a little money. Is there any reason I shouldn't go for one of those year cars?

Thanks,

SwamiBob
 

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Sorry that deal didn't work out

I had it happen to me about 8 times until i finally got my hands on one.

Verbal deals don't mean anything when it comes to dealerships. The only way to secure a car is to put a deposit on it.

The year doesn't matter with Supras unless it's a 96 which were all automatic (unless that's what you're looking for). There are some differences and the computer is one of them. Others are more cosmetic. My 97 has a different ashtray, front bumper, and Special Edition badges on the side. Some say my car has better turbos but cheaper parts elsewhere, however I haven't had that information confirmed. The MSRP did drop between 93 to 97 because of low sales numbers. This doesn't mean that 97 and 98 were much different. In fact some people try for 98's just because of the tendency of lower mileage, condition, and maybe even the three-spoke steering wheel.

A supra is a supra is a supra when it comes to the year.

Brittany
 

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only real difference is cosmetics id get a nice 94 like i did ( to save some money) and invest the rest into bpu part! then a single :D oh sorry to hear about what happen but hey mabe it was for the best!
 

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O.K. Here's MHO. The 93.5 thru 96 MKIV TT have advantages over the 97-98 model years. The engine/trans/chassis are basically the same (97-98 6spd have taller shifters). Some
minor cosmetic chages (different front facia, head
lamps, tail lamps, emblems). 93.5-96's have better
ABS system. The earlier MKIV's also have better interiors with higher quality leather and genuine
leather double-stiched inside door handles (97-98's have cheap leater seats that wear pre-
maturely and crappy plastic inner door handles that pull away from the door panel. I've heard that Toyota cut corners elsewhere as well. How else do you sell a car fully loaded in 97 (targa,six speed,polished wheels,etc) for $10k less than the previous years? "Make it cheaper"
I've learned this by carefully scrutinizing 9 TT MKIV's over 1.5 years of searching before finding the one owner '95 TT 18k mile completely stock car that I ended up purchasing. Stay patient and don't
get excited about the first couple you find. You can always find another. Try to purchase from a private owner that you feel comfortable with. Dealers will screw you as soon as you tell them your interested in their car. The number one reason 97's catch high dollars is because they are the most popular year - "ANNIVERSARY EDITION" :D
 
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