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Z

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Discussion Starter #1
BEFORE
Injector #1-527 cc/min Good
#2-522 cc/min Fair
#3-530 cc/min Good
#4-511 cc/min Fair
#5-528 cc/min Good
#6-535 cc/min Good

AFTER
Injector #1-538 cc/min Excellent
Injector #2-542 cc/min Excellent
Injector #3-540 cc/min Excellent
Injector #4-539 cc/min Excellent
Injector #5-538 cc/min Excellent
Injector #6-541 cc/min Excellent


any coments or ideas of how the injectors condition are before and after the service?
 

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Zerosoul,

I just got mine back from RC eng. yesterday. :)

Before:

#1 good 534
#2 good 531
#3 Fair 533
#4 good 530
#5 Fair 532
#6 Fair 538

After:

#1 Excel. 540
#2 Excel. 541
#3 Excel. 540
#4 Excel. 543
#5 Excel. 540
#6 Excel. 540

I've been looking at your posts lately and will be doing a modified stock fuel system write up within the next week or two. The system consists of a single Walbro 341 pump, dual feed stock rail, Adj. FPR, dual FD bypass from filter to ends of the rail, 12V mod , blueprinted and balanced injectors . Maybe dual intanks in the future, but I'm going to see if the single one can provide 500-525 RWHP wihtout losing pressure. I'm also adding Water/meth injection very soon.
I have a single now on the car running only 1.1kg/cm2 . My EGT's are very good and the car is pig rich ( foul out a set of plugs already), but I'm going to the dyno with a wideband for the finial verdict on the A/f before I turn up the boost.

-TY
 
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Discussion Starter #3
TY,

I have been having problems just like Jonas. My large Bosch pump will be arriving tomorrow. I'll let you all know how the results turn out.

I will be running 12v to the Bosche pump. I am thinking of running a single feed modified stock line with an aeromotive FPR on it. This setup should be able to flow enough fuel for at least 525RWHP.

We will have to see.

Cheers.
 

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carcnoid,

Sounds good. What problems was Jonas having?I must have missed it. Was it high EGT's?

Also are you going to dead-head the fuel rail and run a by-pass regulator or use the stock return off the rail. I'm welding fittings to the rail and running my FPR off of the stock location.
The set up should be able to support a little more RWHP .

Let me know the results.


-TY
 

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Tony,

$183 and I sent mine UPS ground so it took about 2 weeks total. You can send it overnight and have it back in 3 days.
Well worth the price IMO.

-TY
 

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TYWRAP said:


I've been looking at your posts lately and will be doing a modified stock fuel system write up within the next week or two. The system consists of a single Walbro 341 pump, dual feed stock rail, Adj. FPR, dual FD bypass from filter to ends of the rail, 12V mod , blueprinted and balanced injectors . Maybe dual intanks in the future, but I'm going to see if the single one can provide 500-525 RWHP wihtout losing pressure. I'm also adding Water/meth injection very soon.
I have a single now on the car running only 1.1kg/cm2 . My EGT's are very good and the car is pig rich ( foul out a set of plugs already), but I'm going to the dyno with a wideband for the finial verdict on the A/f before I turn up the boost.

-TY
What kind of fuel pressure were you going to run? I am going to try 53 psi base with my T66 @ 18 psi.
 
Z

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Discussion Starter #8
I have stock fuel injector just balanced, stock rail, stock FPR working inconjunction wit HKS adjustable FPR located after stock FPR.
the problem I've been going thru is my car runs really lean. most of he time at 4th gear pull it will show 14:1 on wideband and 760c+ EGT with probe at DP.
after I change the injectors, I will see if it helps to lower my A/F and my EGT.
 

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Grant,

I'm going to try 45-50 PSI. The Dyno and the A/f will decide for me. That's what I plan though. did you ever do water injection?

Zerosoul,

My car used to make 760 on a 5th gear pull, even with bigger pump. I think it's the stock turbo's though pushing heat. My friend got 820C at a track day event on 16psi. the egt's just kept climbing


-TY
 

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TYWRAP said:
Grant,

I'm going to try 45-50 PSI. The Dyno and the A/f will decide for me. That's what I plan though. did you ever do water injection?

-TY
Nope, I'm currenty removing my stock twins. After I get the single and dual MAF working, WI is next.

Anyone know a place to buy BGK44 injector cleaner? (or however its spelled).

Thanks
 

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Many toyota dealerships carry BK44-just remember it's not something you can do at this house, unless you have an air compresser and the tank needed for the cleaner. You have to disconnect the fuel pump, plumb the cleaner into the rail, pressurize the canister containing the cleaner and the car runs on the cleaner only. You also must disconnect the return line or risk spliting the tank open. Toyota also offers there own brand of cleaner in a pre-pressurized can, but you would still need the adapter and the needed fitting. I have used both types several times on different cars and have always had the best luck with the BK44. It's really not all that expensive to have done at a dealership. It's runs around 1 hour labor and the price of the cleaner, so you'd be looking in the neighbor hood of 130.00ish. Own my own vehicles, I do this regularly. Short of sending off the injectors, this is the best cleaning you can do. The pour in tank stuff is not worth it at all-it does nothing.Hope this helps--
 
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Discussion Starter #12
TY,

I was going to run stock FPR and rail at first, but if that doesnt work, I was going to run a dual feed rail and aeromotive FPR.

I spoke with Jeff Watson at Jay Marks and he said that the stock FPR cannot handle all the fuel that the Bosch pump flows. Chances are, I will need to upgrade my FPR regardless, so I will most likely go with a dual feed line at that point.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
TYWRAP said:
Grant,


Zerosoul,

My car used to make 760 on a 5th gear pull, even with bigger pump. I think it's the stock turbo's though pushing heat. My friend got 820C at a track day event on 16psi. the egt's just kept climbing


-TY
EGT is one thing, but on both dyno and my wideband O2 sensor reads lean condition in A/F. would heat from turbo make the sensor lean?
 
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Discussion Starter #14
@zerosoul
did you ever changed the fuelfilter from the fuelpump? did you ever adjust the screw on the top of the fuelpumpassembly? did you ever checked your efi 1 and 2 relays like descripted in the repair manual? if you check the relays, shake them in your hands while measuring. mine had at peak 50kohm resistance, that means my pumps never had 12 volt power on the 12 v mod.
do you have during 5 minutes after stall 1,2 to 1,5 bar fuelpressure on your gauge? if not check the fpr and/or the fuelpump (backpressurevalve in the pump). on my car the fpr and the stock pump was bad, now I'm able to hold 60 minutes with about 2 bar on my aftermarket fpr. if you have no fuelpressure after stall you will not have enough fuel for zylinder #1 on high rpms, because the fpr is located beween zyl #1 and #1 and not before #1.
check it out.

;)
 
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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
"did you ever changed the fuelfilter from the fuelpump?"
no, but I'm definitely gonna check it out!

"did you ever adjust the screw on the top of the fuelpumpassembly?"
no, I installed a new fuel pump and and I never messes with the screw, which screw are you talking about? the union bolt? I know its not leaking cuz I ckecked it.

"did you ever checked your efi 1 and 2 relays like descripted in the repair manual? if you check the relays, shake them in your hands while measuring. mine had at peak 50kohm resistance, that means my pumps never had 12 volt power on the 12 v mod"

which EFI relay are you talking about, I went thru everything I could check in the repair manual, tell me which diagnostic port did you check EFI 1 and 2 at and I'm gona check again....yeh, I'm beginning to suspect the fuel pump voltage, I did 12V mode and it didnt help. I was thinking of get a voltage reading from the 12V electric line during full boost and see if its less than 12v.


"do you have during 5 minutes after stall 1,2 to 1,5 bar fuelpressure on your gauge?"

yeh it holds 2.0+bar pressure even after 5 min, never stayed long enough to see FP to drop below 1.5, I have a new HKS FPR placed after stock FP and it holds good pressure.

thanx for the tip!
 

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what the fuck

I have the same fucken prob at the top of fourth it feels like fuel cut I knoe my bcc is not tuned right its at 4.1 voltz right now and I think it should be at like4.29 is what I have heard but any way should I do a fuel pressure regulator for know with the hks fuel rail or what the fluck it pisses me off and as for my type s blow off valve if someone would be as kind to turn theirs all the way hard then count every turn to the soft that it should be set at i would thank you so much for that info just pm me i hate that ugly sould Im getting its not a clear piissshhhh its more of the intake spitting air and it sounds nasty
 
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Discussion Starter #17
I am having problem trying to read your post dude, I dont think anyone can understand what your post. try again.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
@Zerosoul
if you remove the fuel pump assembly you have to lose the fuelline on the top. there is only 1 screw to remove the fuelline. before you remove this screw mark the head of the screw with a scredriver at the position where its matched the fuelline. After removing the screw you will see that the outlet whole in the screw is not matching your fuelline. In 90 % of all supras I tuned these screws were wrong installed. take some aditional seal rings to adjust them as it should be.
About the EFI 1 and EFI 2 Relays, they are in the fuse box in the engine bay. check them out like descripted in the toyota repair manual. they should have continuity (hope this word is correct :)) most of them don't. about 85% will have resistance as I already posted. don't forget to shake them....... with shaking you simulate "driving" (g-force/braking/accelerating)for the relays.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
ok, so I will take out the fuse and check for continuity of EF1 and EF2 in the fuse box located behind the battery correct?
BTW, which volum is this inspection procedure under? I wonder why I have missed it. is it possible to get a page # on that?

as for the fuel line bolt, I will double check it to make sure its pointing at the right direction. thanx for the tip again!
 
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Discussion Starter #20
@Zerosoul,
you open the fusebox behind the battery and take out the efi relays not the fuses. you have to test the relays not the fuses :)
btw, do you made the egr mod with one plate? have you checked your fuel pressure gauge under full load on 6000 rpm on the 5th gear if you have still 3,8 bar pressure?
there are several other posibilities to check if the egt are still high. f.e.
water temp sensor for efi
oil temp sensor (engine oil)
oil temp sensor (at tranny oil, don't know if you have one in mt)
oil temp sensor (differencial)
and many many more......
 
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