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Installing new rotors and brake lines, hard or not?

I tried searching but i really did not get a good answer, is it really hard to replace the rotors? what about brake lines? I really want to do it myself because my calipers look really horrible, they need to be painted and i think painting them while they are off the car is a good idea, but that would mean my car would have some down time while im painting them. I would probably also have to do the back ones, and later on do the front ones since my car is outside i dont feel safe having it on 4 jack stands while i have all the stuff inside. I read the mkiv article on replacing brake lines so i know what i need for that, but what about taking off the rotors, what tools do i need for that? I see what i need for calipers but on mkiv its not very clear on how to exactly take off the rotors and what is needed. Is it really that hard to do? I do not need to remove the brake pads, those are new, so do I even need to push them back in to fit the rotor on? Any advice or help will be appreciated.
 

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Taking off the rotors is easy. I just did it the for the first time yesterday.

You need to remove the wheel. Remove the anti-squeal clip, pad clip, rotor pins, and pads (this part is really easy just follow the directions on the mkiv.com site for brake pad replacement). Then remove the (4) 14mm bolts holding the front of the caliper to the back (don't lose the two washers for the brake fluid in the galley between the caliper pieces unless you have replacements). Bam, the front of the caliper is in your hands (that is all you paint anyways). You can pull the rotor off if you want as it will just be hanging there.

You don't have to remove the brake pads, but they will fall out when you pull the caliper apart, so might as well take them out first.

Make sure you bleed the brakes after you put it all back together again.
 

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HI,

Regarding replacing the lines, it can vary on whether it is difficult or not. Sometimes, if the lines were previously too tight on that fitting, the fitting ends will flare out, making it very difficult to pull the old line off and get the new line on. IF this happens to you, you have to pull the old line off, then use a metal file to file down the flared end of that fitting. Then you can put the new line on.

My buddies and I did this to my car about 4 months ago....it went relatively smoothly, but two of my 4 lines needed filing due to the flared ends.....its a pain in the ass, but I guess it is worth it.

Get the Goodridge SS lines.

Asheesh
 

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1 ur Mom warned U about
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I am replacing all four rotors and pads tomorrow as well. Never changed brakes before so I am not sure what to expect. I just printed out the instructions from http://mkiv.com/manual/manualtt/brake_replacement/index.html

I am not planning on changing the lines or even bleeding them. Would I be fine if I just changed the rotors and pads without bleeding the brakes?

And also is there any other instructions on mkiv.com other than the link I posted on this? And tools/tips/tricks you guys recommend?
 

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If you are just changing the rotors and pads it should be pretty easy....

The only thing I can see that may be a problem is if your rotor is stuck on....In that case you can use a bolt and screw it into one of those threaded holes near the center of the rotor to pop it off...make sure the threading matches....I dont remember the exact threading it is supposed to be but I know it has been posted on here before.

Good Luck,

Asheesh
 

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Shawn Davis
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You do NOT want to remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper together unless you plan on rebuilding the caliper. You only need to remove the two bolts holding the caliper in place! This is a common (and dreaded) mistake.
 

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Thanks for the input guys, tomorrow it's the moment of truth ;).
 

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Ubermensch said:
You do NOT want to remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper together unless you plan on rebuilding the caliper. You only need to remove the two bolts holding the caliper in place! This is a common (and dreaded) mistake.
There are actually 4 bolts holding the caliper together, and 2 more bolts holding the caliper to the car. Your statement is correct in that you only need to remove the caliper when changing the rotor, but taking the caliper apart is important and easier if you want to do a good job painting them as 99YellowStang want to.
 

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i did all this at tech school, and its al pretty staright foward, only thing i would be scared/worrying about is bleeding the hydraulic pressure so you wont get hurt, and making sure all the anti rattle clips are in place.
 

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The clips are a breeze, and bleeding is easy as well. Rotor and pad changes were alot harder on my sisters 1997 Mazda 626.
 

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Anyone have trouble taking off the two bolts that hold the caliper to the rotor? I was able to get one off but the other seems to be welded (i know its not i'm just exaggerating). I've tried liquid wrench, my electric impact gun, and nothing's worked to get the bolt off. A friend suggested using a blow torch to heat it up, then try it. If that doesn't work i'm probably going to have to take it to a garage and have them use their air tools to get it off. Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks!

Ryan
 

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Why are you taking the caliper off?

If you are just changing the rotors, why not just take the caliper apart. It should be easier?
 

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Ryan,
When I had to take off my calipers to get powdercoated it was a pita to break those bolts. Have you tried using a jack to loosen them? I used a 1/2 ratchet and my floor jack to press up on the ratchet. Broke em like a charm. I think you can only do that on the right side calipers if I'm not mistaken because the left side bolts need to be cranked down as opposed to up. For the ones on the left, I laid under the caliper just yanked the hell out of it and they broke. My car had 130k miles when i did this, and they'd never been off before so you should be able to break them. If this technique doesn't make any sense and you're still having trouble give me a call.
BTW, I called volk and they said that hubcentric rings are needed with the le37t's!?!? I ordered a set online just in case.
Yellow99Stang,
You don't want to take the calipers apart unless you're planning on bleeding them. Splitting the calipers will cause brake fluid to come out of them so you'd have to bleed them after doing this. Just take off the two bolts that hold that caliper on and use a hanger to hang the caliper so it doesn't pull on the brake line. If you're planning on replacing brake lines then you'll have to bleed the brakes anyway.
Tony
 

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Shawn Davis
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Bad4URHeart said:
Why are you taking the caliper off?

If you are just changing the rotors, why not just take the caliper apart. It should be easier?
Because taking apart the caliper gives a high probability of getting dirt and garbage in the system. Typically if you're rebuilding calipers its done a extremely clean environment and everything is spotless to minimize contamination.

As far as breaking those bolts use I'd suggest a breaker bar +six point socket+hammer (or a wrench and a hammer). Ensure the socket or wrench is well seated and give it a whack. A sudden impulse often breaks stuck bolts much easier than slow steady force (not to mention when it breaks loose you don't go flying or get smacked by something).
 

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Tony: I'll try that this weekend, but i think it might be easier just to take it to a garage, because i actually cracked one of my sockets trying to get the bolt off (i used a fairly long breaker bar and i think the socket slipped). As for the LE37's, the rim sits on the hub so I don't see why you're going to need the rings. I didn't notice any vibrations at all so you should be ok without them.
 

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I just finished installing rotors and pads. And one of the two bolts to take off the caliper was a bitch to come off. But eventually it did break lose (after 2 hrs of trying). This is the first time I did the brakes and it's not too hard actually (if u don't have any bolts stuck)
 

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Heres some pics of my brake job I just did this past Saturday. I finished everything except bleeding the brake fluid. I will do that tomorrow. I didnt have a second person to help me and it was getting late. Where I live there an association so I'm not allowed to leave the car on stands. I replaced the rotors with new coated rotors from iRotors.com, new factory Brake pads, new goodridge ss brake lines and painted the Calipers with the G2 kit and Supra stencils. I spray painted the Supra logo using Silver paint. I started around 11:30 am and had the car back on the ground by around 9pm. 4 hours of the time was waiting for the paint to dry. If I had to paint the calipers again I would probably use HiTemp Spray Paint. Spray paint leaves a smoother finish. I really don't like the texture that brushed paint leave. Althoug with the G2 paint it didnt come out bad. Check out the photos and let me know what you think. Thanks.

FULL GALLERY: http://turbozilla.com/gallery/SupraBrakeJob

A few Pics:













 

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Thanks for the pics. I also noticed in the third pic up from the bottom you have a damaged front wheel well. Have you been doing some high speed highway runs? Both of my front wheel well are crap due to some 160 mph runs. I wonder if that is a common problem.
 

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I dont about 160 mph. I'm chicken, I've only gone to 120mph :D. I do notice that my tires rub on those plastic peices when I make sharp turns. I've been meaning to get those peices replaced. Anyone have any ideas on how much those parts cost? Thanks.
 
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