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93, 2JZGTE, V160, Built 3.0ltr
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

Just looking into intake manifold options and drive by wire modifications to a 2JZ-GTE Non-VVTI.

Aim for the build is to be oem+1 so for the engine bay I wanted to clean up the intake side a bit to match the exhaust side. Aiming for 600 - 700hp so the swap to an aftermarket intake is purely for aesthetics.

When it comes to the intake, with the above in mind I am looking to either;

A. Keep the oem manifold and use the venom automotive/taarks adapter to mount a bosch dbw throttle body and then use a bosch pedal too and powder coat all black.
B. Use a front facing aftermarket intake manifold with DBW capability built into it - something similar to the Plazmaman intake.

Obviously there is a big cost difference between retrofitting dbw to my existing oem manifold and going aftermarket so my main question is;

1. Has anyone gone down the route of retrofitting using the taarks adapter? What does your bay look like now and are you happy with how it looks and performs?
2. Has anyone gone with an aftermarket front facing manifold? Does the intercooler piping clear the radiator to replicate the oem routing?

Currently leaning towards the retrofit for cost purposes but prefer the aesthetics of the aftermarket look (images below of each setup)

Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Fluid Automotive design Vehicle

(Taarks DBW Mod)

Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design

(Plazmaman Intake)
 

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Given your 'OEM+' intent and 600-700hp goals (on what fuel? Pump gas? Race gas? E85?) I'd go with an adapter on the stock intake. I don't have direct experience with the Venom/Taarks adapter itself, but many other adapters using the 82mm Bosch DBW TB have had excellent results on the stock intake in a variety of installs.

The major deciding factors for happiness will be the setup/install of the DBW throttle pedal itself, and the proper configuration & tuning in your ECU. Happiness with the appearance of the stock intake manifold itself and the physical install of it in the engine bay will be subjective, but I'd expect good to excellent results with performance, and the difference between 'good' and 'excellent' there will be largely determined by tuning and additional feature support in your ECU for drive by wire (cruise control, etc)

Aftermarket intakes often require a lot of different changes; the picture you linked is a cable-throttle dry sump race car with a large frame turbo, so using that as an 'OEM+' or 'OEM+1' sort of example is a bit confusing to me.

If you decide to go with an aftermarket intake, a lot of the same deciding factors apply - ECU support for your specific DBW throttle and good tuning are paramount, and far more important than the particular intake itself. Depending on your specific turbo, you might lose a small bit of spool vs the stock intake, but you'll gain some midrange & top end HP. The larger the turbo setup and higher you're revving, generally the more midrange and top end you'll gain from a short runner & higher volume intake manifold.

As for choosing the ideal one, I'd decisively recommend an 'RMR style' intake as offered by Sleeper Designs since that minimizes the changes to the battery/battery tray/fuse box/IC piping/etc to execute a clean install, and visually it deviates less from the OEM pattern.
 

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I went with the Whifbitz Bosch throttle body adapter for the non-VVTi intake manifold. They also have one for the VVTi intake manifold. I have a VVTi-GTE head, so I kept the non-VVTi intake manifold - larger opening and proper head fitment.
Got a Bosch 74mm throttle body
It's nice because it places the throttle body intake opening right where the stock one was. So all intercooler piping fits right up - you don't need an extended upper pipe.
Hood Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire Car
 

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Land vehicle Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Automotive design


Ive installed a few Taarck adapters for DBW on stock intake. Looks something like above, still uses stock intake pipe, just needs slightly longer coupler pipe to connect.

If you stick to stock intake then relative to a big FFIM you will have slightly better low down torque but hard to carry powerband beyond 7200rpm. FFIM will usually let the engine breath easier to 8k or so, assuming you have all the supporting mods to do it.

Personally I love DBW, but it takes a really good tune to get it feeling dialled in and reacting as much like a cable throttle as possible. On a manual box extra care on the tune needs to be taken in account to how the throttle responds in between gear changes etc so you don't get RPM creep.

Electronic pedals are also half the battle, some are better than others in terms of feel. Personally I like pedals that feel progressive and have a "cable" feel. Many pedals will feel very light which you may or may not like.
 

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2001 Nissan Altima SE
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I have a Bosch DBW with the Sleeper Design manifold. I use the OEM Lexus SC430 pedal which bolted right in. It’s hooked up to a Motec M150 and it drives fantastic. There are some behind the scenes benefits as well. Such as better idle control, cruise control, and better cold starts.

The Bosch DBW are cheap too.


View attachment 282560
Did you need an adapter or was it made specifically for the Bosch DBW? I have a Sleeper Desing RMR IM with the standard TB and was thinking of changing over to DBW and was hoping it would be bolt on.
 

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Did you need an adapter or was it made specifically for the Bosch DBW? I have a Sleeper Desing RMR IM with the standard TB and was thinking of changing over to DBW and was hoping it would be bolt on.
I ordered mine specifically for DBW. However I believe he said he sells adapters now to convert traditional throttle bodies to DBW.
 

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I have a Bosch DBW with the Sleeper Design manifold. I use the OEM Lexus SC430 pedal which bolted right in. It’s hooked up to a Motec M150 and it drives fantastic. There are some behind the scenes benefits as well. Such as better idle control, cruise control, and better cold starts.
Huh - is your car LHD or RHD ?

Per DBW With Stock Intake Manifold the pedal mounting bolts are different for LHD and RHD. I got a Lexus Pedal (78010-30030) from Longo Toyota - the only ones I found that would sell me one.
Turns out the damn pedal is a restricted item - Lexus wants the car - WITH VIN - in the shop and for them to call to order the part. I provide a <ahem> VIN and the parts guy there hooked me up ...

Sure enough, as you see further down in that thread, the new Lexus pedal was not the same bolt pattern as the original pedal. I wound up creating a mounting bracket to move the pedal over to the right and out, so it would line up better with the other pedals. Also had to build up the pedal stop. Lots more information and photos in that thread.

"Bolted right in" Damn. Must have been nice.
 

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Huh - is your car LHD or RHD ?

Per DBW With Stock Intake Manifold the pedal mounting bolts are different for LHD and RHD. I got a Lexus Pedal (78010-30030) from Longo Toyota - the only ones I found that would sell me one.
Turns out the damn pedal is a restricted item - Lexus wants the car - WITH VIN - in the shop and for them to call to order the part. I provide a <ahem> VIN and the parts guy there hooked me up ...

Sure enough, as you see further down in that thread, the new Lexus pedal was not the same bolt pattern as the original pedal. I wound up creating a mounting bracket to move the pedal over to the right and out, so it would line up better with the other pedals. Also had to build up the pedal stop. Lots more information and photos in that thread.

"Bolted right in" Damn. Must have been nice.
Must be LHD brake master is on the left side.
 

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Huh - is your car LHD or RHD ?

Per DBW With Stock Intake Manifold the pedal mounting bolts are different for LHD and RHD. I got a Lexus Pedal (78010-30030) from Longo Toyota - the only ones I found that would sell me one.
Turns out the damn pedal is a restricted item - Lexus wants the car - WITH VIN - in the shop and for them to call to order the part. I provide a <ahem> VIN and the parts guy there hooked me up ...

Sure enough, as you see further down in that thread, the new Lexus pedal was not the same bolt pattern as the original pedal. I wound up creating a mounting bracket to move the pedal over to the right and out, so it would line up better with the other pedals. Also had to build up the pedal stop. Lots more information and photos in that thread.

"Bolted right in" Damn. Must have been nice.

Mine is a LHD. I ordered the pedal from Lexus with a VIN. No questions asked. It took me about 5 minutes to install the pedal after the old one was removed. I'm not sure what all the drama was about with people having issues installing it. If you look at the factory pedal and the new DBW pedal the second bolt hole is elonged to allow a slight variation/tolerance. I was able to get it on with no modifications.

I did end up bending the pedal to the right about .5" with my hand after this picture was taken. But that was just preference. Super easy.



OEM 6spd Pedal (notice the elongated 2nd hole) below:
Hand Automotive tire Automotive lighting Finger Electrical wiring



Lexus SC430 Pedal (notice the elongated 2nd hole) below:
Hand Guitar accessory Bicycle part String instrument accessory Automotive tire



SC430 pedal installed:
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Steering part Automotive design


Hand Automotive tire Automotive lighting Finger Electrical wiring
Hand Guitar accessory Bicycle part String instrument accessory Automotive tire
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Steering part Automotive design
 

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Doh - totally didn't think to look at the pic dammit. What part number did you use for the pedal ? Mine didn't have an elongated hole - would have been 5mm wide to accommodate the 41mm to 46mm difference. How about pedal height ? Even if mine could have fit the bolt-holes, it sat a good 4-5cm too close to the firewall. Could have bent the pedal arm for that, but not well. It was also crowded right up close to the brake pedal - workable but again, not comfortable.

As much of a faf as the bracket was to make work, it placed it perfectly in the end, so I'm happy. But man, I wish it had been "Bolted right in" ...
 

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Just saw your pedal photos - definitely a different pedal. The mounting standoffs are different. Also looks like the 90-degree bend to the pedal is longer, so the pedal face sits higher. That's why I had to space mine off the firewall some.
 

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Doh - totally didn't think to look at the pic dammit. What part number did you use for the pedal ? Mine didn't have an elongated hole - would have been 5mm wide to accommodate the 41mm to 46mm difference. How about pedal height ? Even if mine could have fit the bolt-holes, it sat a good 4-5cm too close to the firewall. Could have bent the pedal arm for that, but not well. It was also crowded right up close to the brake pedal - workable but again, not comfortable.

As much of a faf as the bracket was to make work, it placed it perfectly in the end, so I'm happy. But man, I wish it had been "Bolted right in" ...
I had read some horror stories about the install and custom brackets. But when I got the new pedal I lined it up with the original pedal, and the holes were so damn close I was like "let's try this." And sure enough it went on with minimal effort.

I had read the Whifbitz DBW conversion requires you to move/bend the pedal. So I was worried because mine did sit low and to the left like you mentioned. But I was able to put my left hand on the fulcrum of the pedal and use my right hand to slowly bend it out and right worked perfect. I couldn't believe it.

I have had a few buddies sit in the car and they can't tell the difference. It looks OEM now.
 

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If you have a side-view photo of your pedal be interesting to compare to the 78010-30030 one I got.
My pedal position looks stock now too, but with bracket. Given the 90-degree length I don't think it would have worked without extending the pedal stop. Without that it would have ripped the end right off the sensor arm.
 

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If you have a side-view photo of your pedal be interesting to compare to the 78010-30030 one I got.
My pedal position looks stock now too, but with bracket. Given the 90-degree length I don't think it would have worked without extending the pedal stop. Without that it would have ripped the end right off the sensor arm.

Font Rectangle Number Parallel Screenshot
 

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93, 2JZGTE, V160, Built 3.0ltr
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks all,

Think I'll go down the route of the taarks adapter and dbw on the oem intake for now. Engine will be fully built and the tuner I'm working with has 20+ years in the game so I'm sure he will be able to setup the timing and feel with the DBW no problem. With regards to the pedal, I've heard a lot of negativity around the lexus pedal (as noted above with bending and having to make a bracket etc) so I'll be getting the bosch dbw pedal and venom automotive bracket for it so its "plug and play" as such.

Parts list below, prices as of Nov, 2022;

Taarks OEM - 74mm DBW - AUD 129 / € 83
Bosch 74mm DBW Throttle Body - AUD 219 / € 142
Taarks Throttle Bod to Coupler Adapter - AUD 119 / € 77
Bosch DBW Pedal 0 280 755 051 - Ebay €70
Venom Automotive Pedal Adapter - AUD 139 / € 90
Throttle Body Connector - AUD 16.50 / €11
Shipping / Misc €50

Total €523

Sleeper Designs €2799.30
Plazmaman €1772.05

Its hard to justify the additional spend at this point in an aftermarket unit but it is a separate "project within a project" that I might look at in the future.
 

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If you're on a tight budget I know that the 2017+ Chevrolet Colorado V6 throttle body works too. It's around 72mm so it's pretty close to the bosch one but it's a good a mount cheaper. I know a shop that sells and adapter to the OEM intake for around 65-70 euros.

Part number for the Throttle body is: 12676296

Correction, I think it's the 2015-2016 Colorado Throttle body which differs slightly.

Part number should be 12670981

I can confirm with the shop on Monday if you still haven't ordered the Bosch Throttle body. You can run a coupler directly on the throttle body too since it has a bead so that should save you some more money.
 

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I went with the Whifbitz Bosch throttle body adapter for the non-VVTi intake manifold. They also have one for the VVTi intake manifold. I have a VVTi-GTE head, so I kept the non-VVTi intake manifold - larger opening and proper head fitment.
Got a Bosch 74mm throttle body
It's nice because it places the throttle body intake opening right where the stock one was. So all intercooler piping fits right up - you don't need an extended upper pipe.
View attachment 282557
BTW is your car RHD or LHD? What ECU are you currently running. I'm looking at this kit for my JDM TT and going Haltech Elite 2500.
 
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